Irony
|
| posted on 14/2/18 at 09:25 PM |
|
|
Fog lights. Fogs lights are meant to be square towards the rear. This means a 90 degrees to the floor. A fog lamp is more or less designed to shine
onto the road. Its to illuminate where the car is and not where your going/been. If you angle the fog up slightly it defeats the object. This is
what my IVA man said anyway - I asked him.
|
|
|
|
|
CTLeeds
|
| posted on 14/2/18 at 09:59 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
Fog lights. Fogs lights are meant to be square towards the rear. This means a 90 degrees to the floor. A fog lamp is more or less designed to shine
onto the road. Its to illuminate where the car is and not where your going/been. If you angle the fog up slightly it defeats the object. This is
what my IVA man said anyway - I asked him.
I'm not doubting what you quote from the IVA inspector but surely it's for other motorists to see you in fog not to illuminate the road
behind the car? Anyway the rules is the rules, even if they are stupid.
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 14/2/18 at 10:10 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by furryeggs
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
Looking at the first picture - I nearly failed my SVA because of those cable tie bases. They WILL look at those with a suspicious eye and you have to
prove that your fixing method is up to the task, otherwise they'll fail them out of hand. They might just fail them anyway, out of habit...
Luckily I was able to tie the cables to a couple of chassis tubes.
I’ve not got anything to tie them to. I’m not drilling holes in my wings to secure them... I’ll epoxy them to the underside and hope for the best.
Surely at some point “where practicable” will have to be incorporated into the IVA???
You may find their response is "there's a problem - fix it or you fail". What they really dislike are the bases that are held on
with a sticky pad, which will fail fairly rapidly. Your job will be to prove that your solution is good enough. If your cable tie bases can be
epoxied then that should be fine, but try one out on a bit of spare fibreglass if you can. Epoxy won't stick to some plastics. If you can
prove to yourself that it works, keep your test piece to show to the tester - tell him that it's an example of the way the bases are fixed.
Hint: roughen the gluing surface with coarse sandpaper, and also the fibreglass - the f/glass may have a slippery stick-resistant coating, and the
same for the base. Also, let a bit of the glue squeeze out at the side of the base, to prove that it's there when he looks.
|
|
|
Irony
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 01:27 PM |
|
|
Before I went for my IVA had was very dubious about the rules and regs. But when the IVA inspector took the time to explain the more eccentric
regulations they made absolute sense to me. Some regulations don't make sense on some cars however and people become frustrated.
|
|
|
jps
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 04:11 PM |
|
|
Could you not rotate those rear lights so the cables come out 90deg clockwise of where they do currently? Could remove the need for the bases
altogether?
[img]
 
Description
[/img]
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 04:12 PM |
|
|
I'll get the bases sorted tomorrow along with a few other bits and spacers for the seat belt mounts.
I'll get more Pictures up as well.
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 05:24 PM |
|
|
I could but they’d flap around a little, the only place to secusre them would be to cable tie them around the bottom of the role cage???
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 08:46 PM |
|
|
Just a couple more pictures...
I haven't fixed it in place yet but this is where I'm mounting the ID plate for IVA. The chassis vin is stamped on the rail infront of the
brake reservoir.
[img] [/img]
And a few of the front suspension, there's a few nut covers left to fit once my trackings sorted and I do need to adjust the brake lines as
they're getting close to the bottom wishbone...
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
I also need to work out how to radius/protect my wingmirror brackets. I'm thinking some edge trim held in place with heat shrink the the mirror
bolted up.
[img] [/img]
Busy day tomorrow in the garage so I should get the majority of stuff finished.
|
|
|
CTLeeds
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 09:05 PM |
|
|
Hi, You've probably seen this on the web...
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-t
o-get-a-pass
I'm concerned with your VIN plate not being as required. Have a look in section 7.
Chris
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 15/2/18 at 09:57 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by CTLeeds
Hi, You've probably seen this on the web...
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-t
o-get-a-pass
I'm concerned with your VIN plate not being as required. Have a look in section 7.
Chris
I have it printed off...
This is were it all gets confusing, as peoples opinions are all different. Tigers own IVA plate is multi coloured, has website and telephone numbers
on it and only model and the vin on it... which I read going by IVA "help to get a pass" site has to much infomation on and not in a
clearly defined box. My plate has only the infomation on that is said to be ok, there is no other infomation on the plate and is clearly read.
It's just got black around the text.
Make
Vin
GVW
Axle 1
Axle 2
|
|
|
CosKev3
|
| posted on 16/2/18 at 08:43 AM |
|
|
Can't you drill and tap the roll cage to fit the mirrors?
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 16/2/18 at 09:27 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Can't you drill and tap the roll cage to fit the mirrors?
I’m not keen on drilling the cage before IVA, If I have to move the mirrors for any reason I’ll be left with holes to sort out.
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 17/2/18 at 09:09 PM |
|
|
I've ordered longer bolts for the rear lights so I can P-clip the wires up out the way without using stick on bases. I was meant to be doing it
on friday but I had to sort out space in the garage for a impending visitor 
I did get my mirror mounts sorted out, with radiused and blunted edges so hopefully should be good... just need to mount and adjust the side
mirrors.
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 18/2/18 at 08:47 PM |
|
|
Mirror's now attached with the new brackets. They are anodised black with a blunted edge hopefully they'll be ok, I'll take a small
file and a pot of umbrol with me just incase I have to radius them more?
Rear view from the drivers seat.
[img] [/img]
the completed rear view bracket.
[img] [/img]
Drivers side mirror view.
[img] [/img]
And finished bracket.
[img] [/img]
All 3 mirror's inplace.
[img] [/img]
My pedal's, can't see any issues here?
|
|
|
nelmo
|
| posted on 18/2/18 at 10:22 PM |
|
|
Looks like a great build - much better than mine and I passed in August!
My tuppence:
1. Seat harnesses are fine if they don't touch the seat while you're in the car - yours look like that will be the case unless
you're very short.
2. Cover those ignition wires with something - even just a sheet of foam.
3. My tester didn't even look inside my tunnel but are your brake lines p-clipped to the side every 150mm (assuming you've got the loom
and fuel lines cable tied to them)?
4. That front brake line is a fail - mine was the same and I failed on it because that loop tightens when on full lock (pig tail he called it).
5. There is nothing specific in the manual about those wires in the rear arch - yours look excellent, I would leave them alone.
6. Rear view mirror is nice but dont get paranoid about the view out - doesn't matter if you can only see sky (like mine did) , it just has to
physically exist. I just had a cheap one 3M'd to the scuttle.
7. The VIN plate only has to have the VIN number and car manufacturers name on it (not sure what that is for you). Mine was a piece of ally, stamped
by me with a cheap stamp set. You dont need any weights on it, just has to be clear to read.
Good luck.
[Edited on 18/2/18 by nelmo]
[Edited on 18/2/18 by nelmo]
Build Blog
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 18/2/18 at 10:47 PM |
|
|
Cheers, I’m trying to keep it as neat as possible.
-Harnesses don’t touch the seat when I’m in it, I have some 12mm spacers and longer bolts just incase
-The front brake lines do need adjusting, they are pretty long so I need to do something with them.
-I’ve made up a cap out of some waterproof plastic and rubber light tube gromets. should do the trick.
-wiring, fuel lines and brakes are all p-clipped every 120mm, I went a bit mad.
-I have plenty off ally and stamps so I’ll do my own then.
quote:
Originally posted by nelmo
Looks like a great build - much better than mine and I passed in August!
My tuppence:
1. Seat harnesses are fine if they don't touch the seat while you're in the car - yours look like that will be the case unless
you're very short.
2. Cover those ignition wires with something - even just a sheet of foam.
3. My tester didn't even look inside my tunnel but are your brake lines p-clipped to the side every 150mm (assuming you've got the loom
and fuel lines cable tied to them)?
4. That front brake line is a fail - mine was the same and I failed on it because that loop tightens when on full lock (pig tail he called it).
5. There is nothing specific in the manual about those wires in the rear arch - yours look excellent, I would leave them alone.
6. Rear view mirror is nice but dont get paranoid about the view out - doesn't matter if you can only see sky (like mine did) , it just has to
physically exist. I just had a cheap one 3M'd to the scuttle.
7. The VIN plate only has to have the VIN number and car manufacturers name on it (not sure what that is for you). Mine was a piece of ally, stamped
by me with a cheap stamp set. You dont need any weights on it, just has to be clear to read.
Good luck.
[Edited on 18/2/18 by nelmo]
[Edited on 18/2/18 by nelmo]
|
|
|
CosKev3
|
| posted on 18/2/18 at 11:16 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by nelmo
Looks like a great build - much better than mine and I passed in August!
My tuppence:
1. Seat harnesses are fine if they don't touch the seat while you're in the car - yours look like that will be the case unless
you're very short.
2. Cover those ignition wires with something - even just a sheet of foam.
3. My tester didn't even look inside my tunnel but are your brake lines p-clipped to the side every 150mm (assuming you've got the loom
and fuel lines cable tied to them)?
4. That front brake line is a fail - mine was the same and I failed on it because that loop tightens when on full lock (pig tail he called it).
5. There is nothing specific in the manual about those wires in the rear arch - yours look excellent, I would leave them alone.
6. Rear view mirror is nice but dont get paranoid about the view out - doesn't matter if you can only see sky (like mine did) , it just has to
physically exist. I just had a cheap one 3M'd to the scuttle.
Good luck.
Are you sure on number 1?
What happens if you sell the car to someone shorter than yourself?
I'm pretty sure the harnresss have to be able to run parallel from the mounting point without touching the seat?
|
|
|
nelmo
|
| posted on 19/2/18 at 07:56 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Are you sure on number 1?
What happens if you sell the car to someone shorter than yourself?
I'm pretty sure the harnresss have to be able to run parallel from the mounting point without touching the seat?
This is what the IVA manual says:
'Check that whilst sitting in each seat in turn, and wearing the seat belt,
secured and correctly adjusted, that the position of the webbing on the
torso and the location of the effective belt anchorage points in relation
to the seated body position are correct.'
Note the bit that says, 'while sitting in the seat'.
But it does admittedly also say this, which doesn't help IMO:
Note 10: The effective belt anchorage is the actual anchorage point to the vehicle unless a change of direction of the belt to the wearer is produced
by
a fixed intermediate device, for example, a belt guide fitted to the upper part of a seat back.
Note 11: Where a seat incorporates a belt guide that creates the “effective belt anchorage” consideration must be given to the strength of the seat
back
in relation to the loading to which it may be subject, (this being dependent on the position of the actual anchorage). The requirements Section 19 RS
3
should be applied to the effective anchorage location.
All I can tell you is that my harnesses were the same as the OP and I had no problems in my test.
Build Blog
|
|
|
iant88
|
| posted on 19/2/18 at 11:34 AM |
|
|
. Also, i’m looking for exactly the things with two allen grub screws for locking the handbrake cables that you have, where did you get them?
I think I have 2spare in my box, I’ll check tomorrow.
Sorry for being a pain, did you get a chance to see if you had any or remember where you got them?
Cheers
Craig
The connectors are used in Karting. Try Dartford karting or Spellfame.
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 20/2/18 at 04:19 AM |
|
|
My new IVA happy plate. hopefully I'm all good with this now.
[img] [/img]
Spacers made up to lift my harnesses to a better level. I checked earlier and although they don't touch when I'm in the seat it is
close.
[img] [/img]
Will I need to cover every nut on the front I have a few left t sort out but do the brake calliper bolts need covering too...
[img] [/img]
And will these edges need trimming, they have a radius as they were sanded smooth before paint so they have several layers of paint and clear coat
added to it...
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
And another edge in the rear wheel well?
[img] [/img]
thanks for all your help. Still not heard anything back from the DVLA/IVA yet. They confirmed receipt of the paperwork last Wednesday and said it was
being looked at.
|
|
|
jps
|
| posted on 20/2/18 at 09:39 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by furryeggs
And another edge in the rear wheel well?
[img][/img]
Isn't the edge / radius requirement only applicable when you can get the sphere into it? Outside looks radiused enough to me - and there's
no way anyones getting in to actual 'edge' of the fibreglass
|
|
|
CosKev3
|
| posted on 20/2/18 at 09:52 AM |
|
|
I think those bolts on calipers will need nut covers on them as they look to be accessible with the sphere?
If that area of caliper is accessible I would think the split pins holding pads in might need something too?
If you've got some trim handy I would trim the bonnet too 
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 22/2/18 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
I called about my application yesterday and am feeling a little confused/annoyed. I’ve been told my paperwork has been returned as i didn’t send a
copy of my IVA pass certificate with it. I explained that it was an application for the IVA test so didn’t yet have a pass certificate. The guy on the
phine sounded confused, said a letter explaining what to do will be in with the returned paperwork and hung up.
I sent ...
IVA application form with VIN
Amateur build decleration
Photo’s
and receipts
am i missing something or are they taking the piss?
|
|
|
CTLeeds
|
| posted on 22/2/18 at 08:58 PM |
|
|
Sounds right to me. That's exactly what i'll be sending.
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 23/2/18 at 11:08 AM |
|
|
Now I know they are taking the piss, I’ve had the paperwork back today from the DVSA with a letter saying I sent it to the wrong address. They have
then asked me to send it back to the address I sent it to in the first place, and it took them 10 days to do it.
|
|
|
