gingerprince
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 11:09 PM |
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Splitting Fireblade crankcase
Eyup,
I'm following Haynes manual instructions for splitting the crankcase on an 893 blade engine (well, 2 of them actually!). Just after a little
clarification on what is actually required.
It says to remove various bits before splitting, including removing camshafts and cylinder head, but then goes on to say that if you're just
after accessing the gearset gubbins then you don't need to remove the cylinder head. This makes sense, but in that case is it still neccessary
to remove the camshafts, or can the bottom half come off without having to mess about with the valve side of things?
Also, having removed alternator casing etc, it is actually neccessary to remove the rotor? I assume this is just on the end of a spindle, and since
this spindle goes through where the case splits then technically it can stay on?
I'll still probably end up doing everything anyway (at least on one engine) - it's the first time I've ever done any sort of engine
work so I'm trying to learn as much as possible along the way but hopefully without causing any damage!
These may possibly be dumb questions, which will be blindingly obvious to me once I've got the thing apart and seen how it actually goes
together, but first-time blindness and all that makes me ask the question anyhow 
Cheers, Sy
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ReMan
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| posted on 11/6/08 at 11:33 PM |
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From what I think you're doing, no you don't need to touch the crank, cams chain, rotor etc.
But you do need to take out the pivot bolt of the camchain tensioner 
[Edited on 11/6/08 by ReMan]
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 12/6/08 at 11:02 AM |
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I've put a couple of genuine fireblade manuals as well as a couple of R1 manuals in the public area at my space feel free to download them far
better. than haynes
MKIfireblade924.spaces.live.com
Regards
Tony..my link
[Edited on 12/6/08 by mad-butcher]
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gingerprince
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| posted on 12/6/08 at 02:20 PM |
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Cheers ReMan, should save me some time
Cheers Tony, but that address doesn't seem to work? I have the 96-98 blade manual already for cross-reference, but the earlier blade one would
be handy.
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 12/6/08 at 02:39 PM |
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try now
Link to my space
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gingerprince
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| posted on 14/6/08 at 11:06 AM |
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Got the spare motor in half now, without removing rotor cheers Bit scary for a non-mechanic like me, but I like dismantling stuff so pleasing
Looks like my plan might be slightly scuppered though. Plan was to replace broken bottom case with bottom case from spare engine, but I've now
found out that because of the way the cases are manufactured you have to have matching top-and-bottom cases  I knew that was the case e.g. with
head and cam-carriers, but they've got numbers engraved into them so it's obvious - didn't know it was the same for the
crankcase.
Still, I need to rip apart the main engine anyway to investigate a gearchange issue, so whilst it's apart I'll find someone to weld it
whilst its off. Spare engine was good practice!
Bit if a bummer though - and a bit surprising that I see people selling top or bottom crankcases on their own on ebay - are they just fleecing people?
What use are they??
like this
and this
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 14/6/08 at 11:52 AM |
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I think like most things they bank on people being nieve, personaly I think they're worth f**k all as one would imagine with japanese
engineering the casings would be paired up and then reamed as a pair for main bearings gearbox bearings etc
tony
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 14/6/08 at 06:21 PM |
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Yup, they're going to be machined as a matching pair as the main bearing shells sit half half in the top crankcase, half in the bottom so need
to be absolutely spot on otherwise the crank isnt going to run true / freely.
Half a crankcase on its own is worth very little as mentioned, perhaps the only thing you could do is use the top half of some engines as a dummy to
work out engine mounts etc.
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