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Indy R hayabusa- what to look out for???
onearmedbandit - 25/7/10 at 07:03 PM

After my recent thread, cheers for the replies guys. I have opted to buy an MK Indy R busa.

Any tips on common faults I need to check over when viewing some. Areas to pay attention to etc. I will be buying as new as possible. 2009 onwards.

Many thanks in advance

[Edited on 25/7/10 by onearmedbandit]

austin man - 25/7/10 at 08:58 PM

dont think there will be that many to chose from. Its deffinitely a strong chasis. I can bear witness to seeing the STIG aka Chris Maries barrel roll his at around 120mph the chasis really held up well see MK's pictures and view the chasis at MK's workshop

Hellfire - 25/7/10 at 10:49 PM

'busa engines in Kits aren't that bullet proof... but TBH there is not much you can look for - it'll just let go.

Not to discourage you - just my personal observation over the last few years.

Cracking engine when on song but when they go - its usually a rod/valve through the block.

Steve

Rocket_Rabbit - 26/7/10 at 12:50 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
'busa engines in Kits aren't that bullet proof... but TBH there is not much you can look for - it'll just let go.

Not to discourage you - just my personal observation over the last few years.

Cracking engine when on song but when they go - its usually a rod/valve through the block.

Steve

No engines simply 'let go'.

I am looking at a MK Indy Hayabusa and having being doing a fair bit of research on here.

Plus what I know from other engines that 'blow'.

Oil pressure/surge seems very critical for these engines and having blown 2 engines from associated oil problems I know how crucial it can be.

Other problems I have encountered with engines blowing is 'over-revving'. This can lead to all sorts of issues that cannot easily be detected, but usually involve retainers failing.

Considering the Busa stroke and it's RPM, mean piston velocities/accelerations make it inferior to a number of car engines in terms of those numbers.

So buy the car and the best you can practicably do is to fit it with a decent baffled sump/accusump, oil perssure gauge and use the correct oil with regular changes

Dangle_kt - 26/7/10 at 08:23 AM

id be looking to see if the front end self centres.

im pretty sure the MK doesnt by default, and from experience it makes a big difference to the experience/safety etc.

procomp - 26/7/10 at 01:10 PM

Hi

Check all front suspension brackets are still attached with no signs of stress around them. Also check for badly repaired brackets where the ones that have departed company from the chassis have been reattached incorrectly.

Cheers Matt

Hellfire - 29/7/10 at 04:57 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Rocket_Rabbit
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
'busa engines in Kits aren't that bullet proof... but TBH there is not much you can look for - it'll just let go.

Not to discourage you - just my personal observation over the last few years.

Cracking engine when on song but when they go - its usually a rod/valve through the block.

Steve

No engines simply 'let go'.

I am looking at a MK Indy Hayabusa and having being doing a fair bit of research on here.

Plus what I know from other engines that 'blow'.

Oil pressure/surge seems very critical for these engines and having blown 2 engines from associated oil problems I know how crucial it can be.

Other problems I have encountered with engines blowing is 'over-revving'. This can lead to all sorts of issues that cannot easily be detected, but usually involve retainers failing.

Considering the Busa stroke and it's RPM, mean piston velocities/accelerations make it inferior to a number of car engines in terms of those numbers.

So buy the car and the best you can practicably do is to fit it with a decent baffled sump/accusump, oil perssure gauge and use the correct oil with regular changes


Fair point well made:
BUT - unless the engine is brand new - there is no known data that the engine has never been starved of oil; for whatever reason, therefore without stripping down and checking the engine prior to purchase then he will never know if there is any damage due to the said Oil Surge problems.

These engines are designed to be revved hard - fact - "Over-revving" - where is that exactly? On the limiter, just before, or.... I'm sure you know what I mean. I dont want to be antagonistic but there aren't many 'busa kit's for the very reason highlighted, plus the cost of them.

There are not THAT much differences between most bike engines that cant be compensated for by good driving - one of the fastest kit's I've had the pleasure of passengering in around Cadwell was in a 'blade engined Kit owned and driven by Paul Fisher. Now, he is a big lad but his driving is simply inspiring - under his hands (or other exceptional driver) it would be beneficial but for the laymen like most of US are there would be little difference.
Accusump, dry-sump, baffles, uprated PRV - swinging pickup is no guarantee the engine will not let go... its merely a little insurance on your engine.

Sorry to drag the thread OT... back to the main point;

I believe the Indy R has proper front geometry - but do check around the suspension brackets.

Steve