Right I have just had a quick drive in the kit car when I got home from work, was looking at the voltmeter on the dash and it was showing 11 usually it is about 13 or so when the ignition is on. I didn't have time to have a long nosey at it, I just had a quick glance over it to see if I could see anything disconnected/alternator belt issues however couldn't see anything at all.

Now before I start thinking of all the problems in the world and start thinking who will come off better (my bank account or the car), just wondering if you guys had any theories of what is wrong or have a idea of what to check when I get chance to have a longer look at it.

Thanks

Matt

What make & type of alternator? Some are easier and cheaper to fix than others.

At initial switch you see about 12.7 volts, with the engine started 13.4 to 14.9 volts at 1,500 to 2,500 rpm, the shouldn't drop or shoot up when you switch the headlights on and then off.

Hmm I have a picture of the alternator from when the belt went on it:




Hope that helps, and the voltage didn't change when I flicked the head lights on and everything so I was a bit clueless tbh.

[Edited on 4/7/13 by MP3C]

Lucas ACR17 start by cleaning the blade connectors at the rear of the alternator.

When you get it sorted it might be worth fitting a heat shield between the alternator and the exhaust manifold. Alternators don't tend to like too much heat

Quick update, took it to work this morning due to nice weather, while in car park I kept it running and disconnected the battery to see if it would run off the alternator and the engine cut out, so it's pointing more and more to the theory that the alternator is knackered. :/ One of my colleagues has an multimeter so I will test it a bit more at lunch, if not I'll just put the battery on charge to get me home.

Edit: I will also have a look into shielding it from the heat. as the last time i used it ( except last night ) was 2x 140 mile drives so I guess in that time it could have got really hot and burnt out. Thanks for that idea.

[Edited on 5/7/13 by MP3C]

Where the volt meter gets its supply can drastically affect the reading. on my car if the demist is on the volt meter reads 2-3 volts low,it needs a new supply.

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Originally posted by MP3C
Quick update, took it to work this morning due to nice weather, while in car park I kept it running and disconnected the battery to see if it would run off the alternator and the engine cut out, so it's pointing more and more to the theory that the alternator is knackered. :/ One of my colleagues has an multimeter so I will test it a bit more at lunch, if not I'll just put the battery on charge to get me home.

Edit: I will also have a look into shielding it from the heat. as the last time i used it ( except last night ) was 2x 140 mile drives so I guess in that time it could have got really hot and burnt out. Thanks for that idea.

[Edited on 5/7/13 by MP3C]

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Has the charge warning light come on?

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You should never ever do that --- seriously it not any knackers alternators but could destroy any electronics on the car.

The first test on an alternator is by measuring the voltage when the engine is running at 1500 to 2500 rpm.

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They can usually be fixed for£5 and ten minutes work once the alternator is off the car, as fitting brushes and regulator pack just involves a couple of screws.

Make 100% sure the spades in the alternator plug are making good clean firm contact, as this was a very common mode of failure on the 17acr, these spades carry a massive current and any arcing makes the solid state regulator throw a wobbly.

Has the bulb gone?

Update,

Can I have a one on one chat with somebody who knows a good deal about alternators or has or owned a Tiger Cat E1 with a 2.0ltr pinto engine. Iust send me a u2u with a number and I'll ring you if it possible, this problem with the alternator is getting to me and its a very long story to try and describe it. I would appreciate it so much!

Thanks alot!

Matt