since i started to attempt my first build i have bought a complete donor, and stripped it down. i was warned before i started that going the f20c route would cost considerably more than most installations,but was wondering which areas were going to add cost over a more "standard" installation? have sold some bits from the donor and have someone interested in the rest of the car. if he agrees on my price which is still cheap imo then the engine,box,prop,diff,steering wheel and column,clocks,loom and exhaust headers (given foc from pwl) will stand me at £800, and it will go in without dry sump! compared to a high powered bike motor for example this seems relatively cheap! as i would imagine a high powered bike motor would be in the region of £2k reverse box £500, diff £150 prop £150, headers £300!
i understand i need new ecu and drive shafts and the wiring may take some time but mbe do a suitable unit for under£600 and a set of modified drive shafts wont cost the earth! was just wondering where any complications may occur later in the build?

Second hand parts of this very forum will be few and far between, there are allways pinto/zetec bits n pieces not many honda parts good luck with build tho it will be worth it in the end

never thought of it like that but there are not many honda parts on the car really!

I think you've got the S2000 parts very cheaply if you got everything you needed for £800.

With reverse boxes BEC are looking less attractive financially in the current environment, and have rarely been accused of being low budget installs.

The hidden costs of using unusual stuff are generally the pain of getting a gearbox mounted on properly (and the costs of a gearbox if a Type9 can't hack the power), new sumps, bespoke headers (exhaust and inlet) and going a bit mad getting them tuned/silicone hosed before they've turned a wheel. So I suspect you've avoided most of those if you just need an ECU.

For custom driveshafts its worth talking to Berrisford as they have an excellent reputation - if the grassers can't break them they should be fine for all sane road/track uses

http://www.berrisford.co.uk/index.php?cPath=45&osCsid=jkmf56q1ju2qfe72fv2jaa58g6

thanks once again iank. a very useful contact. need honda flange at diff end of shaft and sierra on outer side!
will use modified sierra shafts

For instance in my project:

using Mx5 hubs seemed a good idea, but bearings come as part of a £90 replacement hub....

Wheels are 4x100 et 45 so nothing existing fits, meaning every set (3) of wheels will be several hundred quid.

Choice of volvo engine means I need highline bodywork, fine if you select the right kit but means ebay bodywork wont fit.

daft things you dont think of but they all cause issues!

bought an mnr with race front end, its pre made to carry my engine,box and diff!

have you thought about using the stock ECU / loom ?

it needs modified to work - there are a couple of kits in the US that use whole car as a donor and I'm sure at least one of them uses the stock ECU with a few mods
(which the do for some $$ - basicaly tricking it into thinking its still in a honda)

With regards to the last post, i was also going down the stock Ford ECU route but eventually gave in. Maybe worth checking into whether its been done for the Honda and how easy it is to get hold of the info.
Regards
Ed

lol, just to be a bit of a tinker another hidden cost might be your pride as I recall another member who built an S2000 engined car which was supposed to be quite errr 'rapid' was outpaced by a 750MC Locost with a 1300cc xflow round Cadwell......

You might think not using a regular type engine it's going to cost more however it means you don't have to pay the 'mark up' on parts either. For example a replacement LSD will not cost you much, better engineered parts with more modern technology too.

The only down side is shiny parts cost more!

One more thing, general hidden costs people often forget about and don't get included in kits. A good way to estimate that seems to work is do an estimate and add 50%.

IVA+any retest fees
DVLA fees
1 year Tax
Oil engine+gearbox+diff
Antifreeze
Brake fluid
Brake pads+shoes
Glue's
Solvents
Random Nuts+Bolts+Rivets+clips
IVA Trim
Bolt covers
That 6" bit of steel/aluminium/nylon you need on a Sunday and get from B&Q

All adds up ferociously especially if you're buying stuff mail order with £2-5 postage every time.

quote:

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Originally posted by D Beddows
lol, just to be a bit of a tinker another hidden cost might be your pride as I recall another member who built an S2000 engined car which was supposed to be quite errr 'rapid' was outpaced by a 750MC Locost with a 1300cc xflow round Cadwell......

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Sorry If someone else has said this and I've missed it but the main advantage to doing what everyone else is doing is theres a wealth of experience out there, If you do something different you have to work everything out your self which can cause costly mistakes.

The other hidden cost is time, because of the above it will likely take longer.

am not too fussed about how quick it will be round a track! if i was then i would have kept my evo8! love the honda engine,and cant wait to get it running. it will be set up for road use only.

Please consider my advice here:

It is much much MUCH more difficult to go beyond the proven. If you are going to do things well, they will cost, or look like crap. You may want to design your own space shuttle, but NASA probably has a bit of an edge on development, if you can see where I'm going with this.

If I were doing it again (ha ha ha), I'd go Ford Zetec because everyone has done the hard work and I'd just follow abundant advice, and the path to cheap parts!!!