Tried to start my tintop (Rover 800) last
night and nothing.
No problem I thought just need to reprogram the immobiliser code
wi the door lock. Being a Rover it does this at least once a week. Anyway tried this a couple of times and nothing. Then the drivers door lock
motor starts whirring when the ignition keys aren't even in. So I disconnected the battery. Left it on charge overnight fitted it today and
nothing. Completely dead electrically, yet the battery is fine. Put immobiliser code in again and still nothing.
Any ideas? I've checked battery earth and looked at any relays etc. I could find.
Doesn't have a safety switch does it? If you've jacked it up sometimes that can set them off...
Has it got a fitted immobiliser, edit, derr sorry should learn how to read, does the immobiliser have an independant back up battery.
Cheers,
Bob
[Edited on 22/4/10 by splitrivet]
[Edited on 22/4/10 by splitrivet]
main fuse somwhere / knakered earth ?
Have quick look around the car. If you can see the word 'ROVER', then that's your problem.........
I had an 820 turbo which used to do the same thing, turned out that there was a couple of big 80amp main fuses in a small enclosure near battery tray, they were badly corroded
'Have quick look around the car. If you can see the word 'ROVER', then that's your problem........."
Yes I'm coming to that conclusion myself.
Trouble is I can't say I wasn't warned.
Does anyone know where the reset button is if it's tripped itself out?
This just get's worse. The battery which freshly recharged and fitted at 1pm read 12.5 volts is now showing absolutely zero. So current is presumeably leaking through door lock motor but it still doesn't account for all electrics being completely dead. The safety switch apparently cuts the fuel pump and opens the door locks so it's not that.
Hmmm strange one, but electrics do that sort of thing.
If you have nothing ie no dash lights no door locking noise, no life at all then it can only be one of two things.
1) Battery (dead cell or just drops its charge due to age)
2) Battery wiring. This could be a pos or neg that you have missed off (old cars have lots) or when you connected a fully charged battery on a car
that has a large current draw it could brown out a connection or blow a fuse.
So check ALL connections to the fuse box including fuses.
If you have some power, then thats a start. Fault find, what works, what dont?
Door lock motors have many moving parts so that may of gone. It would also not flat a battery that qickly unless something is getting hot (short
circuit) and then a fuse would go!
Post back results. Oh and the safty switch will not be the problem.
1/ I charged the battery up overnight. It read 12.5 V. I fitted it and tried to start the car and no dash lights or anything electrical at all. So
at this point we can assume the battery wasn't the problem.
2/ Four hours later the battery is showing 0 V though i couldn't hear the door motor working. The battery is only 3 months old but I suppose it
is suspect but not the only or even main problem.
What doesn't help is that I've left the handbook at work so I suppose I could do with that and as you say check all fuses/wiring. Fun fun
fun fun fun.
: I hate all the electrics they fit on modern cars. My old mini had one fuse, this thing has about 200.
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Have quick look around the car. If you can see the word 'ROVER', then that's your problem.........
quote:
Originally posted by skodaman
To drop the battery to 0 volts means you have a dead short somewhere fully draining the battery.
Surprised there was not smoke
yep that's a serious drain to take it down that quickly. I'd have thought that somthing was glowing
I wouldn't try it again until you have the manual as this kind of drain has the potential to cause a lot of damage!.......wait for your manual
and then see what fuses are which and where your earths are.
keep us posted
Steve
I reckon its your battery.
It should read something like 12.7. A DC Discharge at that speed means that wither the cell is weak and nackered, or there is a dead short, but with
a dead short (Short Circuit), youll get lots of heat, and maybe even an arc. I doubt its that, or i think you would know by now.
Undfortunately, electrical faults arent cheap to fix, so start at the beginning, with a new battery then work from there.
+1 for the battery
If the battery was deff charged and you think the wiring is ok then it has to be the bat.
Also good point earlier. 0 V is a dead short. Very supprised that did not start a fire or blow the top off of the battery ( my mate did that and
caused acid rain!)
Try a differnt battery