£700 for new clutch and DMF on the Leon...
Oh well, thats put a stop to the new wheels and tyres next month then 
Started slipping last night when driving hard, so will be taking it easier for the next couple of weeks.
Suprising as its only done 56k miles. But then its been chipped up to 300lbft, so that wont have helped!
Oh and its got the cambelt service coming up too, so new belt, water pump etc which is another £500...
[Edited on 12/5/10 by flak monkey]
a couple of years back the same service on my Lexus was £1100 
the original clutch is rated to 310lb/ft IIRC, the sachs/helix combo is around the £800 mark I thought, rated at 420lb/ft IIRC, might stop slipping
though, mine did, say fook all, it's gripped for the last 4 months...............................
I like to pretend it didn't happen....
That's suppl only price though (ps you can do a belt and pump yourself for about £150 too, assuming its a derv, but I guess it is with
300lb/ft)
[Edited on 12/5/10 by Stott]
oooh - that smarts
Its been running chipped since nearly new (10kmiles) without problems. And is actually a lot more driveable low down and is more economical too when
driven gently 
The prices include fitting, not at VW but at my trusted VW servicing place (all ex VW engineers who started their own business when the franchise
shut).
I can't really stretch to an uprated clutch and if the std one is going to last the best part of 60k miles then thats good going I reckon.
Its a bit of an odd slip too. Ok if you boot it in second, then in third you get to 3000rpm and the revs pick up to 3500rpm without the roadspeed
increasing, then the revs hold and roadspeed catches up. It'll do the same in 6th at 70mph as well, but in that case the revs pick up 500rpm then
come back down after a second or so. That said I only noticed it starting last night, so hopefully it will last until the next pay day!
ETA the cambelt price includes the longlife service as well, so no more services for 20k after that one.
I dont fancy doing it myself to be honest either. I am just not interested in fiddling with modern tintops
[Edited on 12/5/10 by flak monkey]
DMF's 
so what if its a little bit smoother....
My clutch slave went the week before it was to be mapped so I got the box out and checked the clutch while I was there, it's V heavy, put it on
your chest and you can only just breath!!!!
My slip was weird too, firstly it slipped from about 3k - 3500 in 3rd up, then it stopped, then it slipped once in 5th, then it stopped, then it
REALLY slipped in 2nd when giving it some, but now it's been ok for months, go figure. I try not to paste it under about 2500rpm cos it makes
311lb/ft from 1800 - 2800 rpm so it's a bit of an ask for the clutch to hold it.
FYI in case you didn't know you can't swap to variable servicing if the car isn't prepped for it, it should be either on QJ1 or QJ0
(variable or fixed - can't remember which is which) but to be on variable it needs an oil viscosity/condition sensor and various other things
like brake pad warning switches etc to pre empt the problems of a car not being looked at for 2 years, the oil sensor being the main concern, you
can do it, they just advise you don't
HTH
Stott
quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
DMF's
700 is cheap ..... mine cost me 1100 and that was after pulling a face or two at the ford specialist (ex main stealer bloke).
Check to see that you're getting new flywheel bolts and what they're doing with the slave cylinder.
quote:
Originally posted by Stott
quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
DMF's
I know! but they are to save the box as well as for comfort!, mine would get welded up thought if it went...........
It includes new slave etc etc. The clutch change on its own is £400 inc labour. The parts are about £200 of that for a LUK (OEM) friction plate, cover
and slave cylinder. The flywheel is then another £300, charging parts only, no extra labour
Its always been on standard fixed service intervals of 10k miles. But I can change it to longlife and 20k if I want to apparently. Only difference is
the oil.
Brakes etc will need doing soon, another expensive job as its got big front disc conversion (S3/TT discs IIRC) and they arent cheap as well as DS2500
pads all round.
Ever think you should just buy a shed to run around in? 
£400 for the clutch including parts is pretty damn good, I paid that much for a poxy 1L Micra clutch about 7 years ago and that was the cheapest of quite a few quotes!
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
It includes new slave etc etc. The clutch change on its own is £400 inc labour. The parts are about £200 of that for a LUK (OEM) friction plate, cover and slave cylinder. The flywheel is then another £300, charging parts only, no extra labour
Its always been on standard fixed service intervals of 10k miles. But I can change it to longlife and 20k if I want to apparently. Only difference is the oil.
Brakes etc will need doing soon, another expensive job as its got big front disc conversion (S3/TT discs IIRC) and they arent cheap as well as DS2500 pads all round.
Ever think you should just buy a shed to run around in?
I have a Golf 150 GT TDi and second gear went up the swanny. The garage had the gearbox out. With 100k on the clock no point in putting the old
clutch back. Oh by the way you need a DMF as well. 1250 quids please.
My Golf clutch slipped if you booted it and it didn't go for ages. I was told that the PD engines (if thats what yours is) had a seven inch
clutch which slips if booted.
[Edited on 12/5/10 by Irony]
You're all mad - I had gearbox failure on my civic - £330 for a rebuild (all new bearings) and replaced the clutch at the same time.
I did rip it out and refit it myself (but I didn't do the rebuild of the box)
Hugh
^^ the clutch on my old 106 only cost me £80 + £110 to fit it....
but when I thought the gearbox was dead - that only cost me £75
quote:
Originally posted by hughpinder
I did rip it out and refit it myself (but I didn't do the rebuild of the box)
Hugh
If I've told you once I've told you a million times about exaggerating.
As well as having one of the most expensive clutches I also sort of have the cheapest ish too, I put a 2 plate kit in the wifes 03 ka last August - £25!!! ok it was a veco one and it does judder a bit, but it don't slip, and most importantly I haven't got to drive it............
can you not fit it yourself???
To be honest, £200 labour for the whole job seems quite reasonable and to be honest I am happy to pay that for someone else to have the hassle as it
would otherwise take me a whole day laying under the car on ramps.
It was more the parts cost (£500) that I was moaning about
my old impreza used to slip in third, i found that dropping to second and flooring it would let it bite. I guess its easier to pass the torque through
at higher rpms.
Doesnt it make you want a BEC David, £30 of parts and a 30min job with just hand tools?!