I am going to be storing my Mac#1 locked away in a ventilated garage for a few years while I'm away in South Africa.

What should I do to the car to prepare it for long term storage?

So far all I have is.... put it up on blocks to get the tyres off the ground.

Any advice please.

I would squirt some penetrating oil into the bores just to coat it without putting too much in.

Loosten the spark plugs

Disconnect and remove the battery - Chances are it will be nackered when you get back anyway, but wrap it in rags to protect it from cold.

leave the handbrake OFF!

Cover the discs with a rag to try and prevent them rusting.

Thats all i can think of for now. I mothballed a GSXR750 for 18 months once, and covered it in PTFE spray, but that was a bitch to clean off.

car vac bags.

drive it in. suck all the air out of most of it and leave.

make sure its done on a nice day with no rain.

spray all the joints with protective coat like wd40 and the cover sharp objects with cloth.

good luck.

Is the car discs or drums?
My dad always pulls out the pads from the disc brakes and replaces them with some small bits of wood. This way there can be no brake seizing.
He also put a car into storage by rolling out some silage sheet (black plastic sheet from the local farm shop), then placing a canister of desiccant in the car's boot (some thing like this ) , then pushing the car on it and then wrapping it over the car, and then using 2 rolls of pallet wrap to fully seal it in the sheeting.
That car stayed like that for 7 years in a damp garage, and came out bone dry, and in near perfect condition.

[Edited on 1/6/10 by fha772]

Tips here:

http://www.shedworks.eu/projects.html

There is a preparation for Outboard Engines called Storage Seal.

I used this on my boat engine every winter,
You run the engine, then spray this in until it chokes the engine.

Check if its OK for Injected engines (if yours is)
Dont know if its any good for what you want.

I agree with coating the bores, and I would give a liberal spray of WD40 or simmilar over all the metal bits, its easier to hose off than rust or ally corrosion (white powder).

Give all the bodywork a really good clean, and then wax polish thoroughly.

Cover with a soft non moisture attracting breathable cover.

I would also give the engine a flush and then oil and filter change. So there is the minimal of crud to settle and harden.

Fill the gas tank and add a fuel-stabilizing additive to prevent the fuel from oxidizing and deteriorating. An empty or low fuel tank will rust internally as moisture may accumulate inside the tank.

Disconnect the battery (although it will probably need to be replaced later, anyway) so the alarm doesn't go off.
Also Grease the terminals to prevent the fur build up. I would take the battery off the car, so it doesnt vent acid fumes under the bonnet that wont get blown away by the usual trip out.

Water flush and fresh anti freeze with corrosion inhibitor to prevent rusting internally.

Leave the Hand Brake OFF!!

Cant think of much else

def give it a fresh oil change, and i WOULD BE INCLINED TO DRAIN/FLUSH/REFIL THE COOLING SYSTEM WITH (DAMN FAT FINGERS AND CAPS LOCK) decent antifreeze or even that 4life fluid, and when lifting the car off the floor it may be worth lowering onto supports so the shocks are in the normal position.
The vac bag idea sounds a splendid idea, as does water absorbant stuff just in case. Dry is your friend. Suspect the clutch may get stuck, but no way round that...

Main rule always put the car into storage on a warm dry day --- after a run long enough to warm the engine fully and drive any dampness off.

Somebody else mentioned long life fuel additive --- good idea also a little Redex in the fuel won't go wrong.

Engine change oil -- flush with vey cheap oil then change fillter and put some fully synthetic in 5w-30 Havoline from Morrisions is ideal.

Prop the clutch pedal down to lift the clutch pressure plate clear of the driven --- this just might be enough stop the driven plate sticking to the flywheel.

Cooling system drain and flush with clean water and put OAT longlife coolant/antifreeze in 50% solution. Premix is best as it is made with de-ionised water.

Brakes --- change the brake fluid use D.O.T 4 is a lot less hydroscopic than DOT5.1 or racing fluid.


Leave the handbrake off.

Best anti corrosion coat for brake discs is a very very light mist coat of zinc rich primer --- easy enough to sand off.


Pump the tyres up to 40 psi and leave the car on stands under the chassis with the tyres just clear of the deck.

As already said take the battery out and give it a charge and store it off car. Protect the terminnals and any exposed parts prone to corrosion with Vaseline.


Give the vinyl surface a rub over with "Son of a Gun" or similar vinyl istr "Son of a Gun" is basically tangerine oil.

Whatever you do... make a note of anything you undo/remove so that when you come back in 2 years time you dont forget to tighten something important

...And don't forget to leave the note with the car so you know where the list is when you get back

Don't forget the SORN will need renewing every year.

all very good advice.... many thanks.