At a guess, I would say that the rear wheel bearing failed, so that it over heated and welded it's self onto the stubb axle leading to excessive rotational force on a non rotating part which then failed across an otherwise non critical flaw in the casting.

OR

The nearside rear wheel was subject to and excessive sideways load that weakened the stub axle that failed at a later date.


Either of the above a possible, but, without specific hands on inspection and a reliable discourse from the driver and or owner of the vehicle, then the rest is speculation. Parts fail and it is definite that the stub axle became detatched allowing the wheel and drum to come away causing damage to wheel arch.


Just my 2p's worth
JGG


Edit bit:- For Stubb axle read drive shaft, in which case the later event is more likely.
Its certainly going to be fun getting the drive shaft out of the axle casing as removing the diff will not be an option until the drive shaft is out.

[Edited on 5/6/11 by jollygreengiant]

hit a kerb or something sideways and snapped the stub and hub off?

quote:

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Originally posted by jollygreengiant
Its certainly going to be fun getting the drive shaft out of the axle casing as removing the diff will not be an option until the drive shaft is out.

[Edited on 5/6/11 by jollygreengiant]

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i think its an escort axle so cutting disk will just trash the axle casing before you get to the drive shaft. If its a timikin diff you gould be able to remove it with the shaft in place. No idea if you'll be able to them push it out tho instead of pull. If the bearing did fail and weld itself to the shaft it may be possible to use that to pull on.

That, sir, is 100% correct. I've been living in IRS land for too long and didn't spot the obvious....

^ if live axle, then the half shaft broke, hub cam off which of course hold the brake drum and wheel on