Board logo

Tintop sump plug stripped
steve8274 - 30/6/14 at 11:13 AM

Hi
Just took my car to national to try and get oil and filter change. They didn't do change and have informed me my sump plug was stripped and had ptfe around it to seal.
They informed me I either need to take to garage that sucks oil out or get sump helicoiled?
Any recommendations? I live in wigan. Does anyone know a garage that could suck or helicoil. Have tried the main garages round here and getting no joy.
Steve


Slimy38 - 30/6/14 at 11:33 AM

I have to ask, why are you letting a garage do an oil change when you're building a car? I would have thought the last thing an LCB'er should do is fork out for someone else to do a very basic maintenance job?

I guess you're after one of these;

http://www.pelapumps.co.uk/


mcerd1 - 30/6/14 at 11:33 AM

what kind of tin-top is it ?


Mr Whippy - 30/6/14 at 11:37 AM

I take it this is an alloy sump, you could buy a npt tap rather than the normal straight thread and fit a brass npt plug


Charlie_Zetec - 30/6/14 at 11:40 AM

I didn't think PTFE tape was oil-resistant, and only suitable for air/water applications? So surely if it was wrapped around a sump plug would have degraded and lead to a leak?

Either way, seems odd that the plug has "stripped" - worst case would have seen plug or sump cross-threaded. I'd be considering running a correct size tap into the sump hole and see if that works to start with. Failing that, might as well drill it out yourself and re-tap (making a note of new thread size) and replace the bolt/washer. Heli-coiling is OK if you're really fussed about retaining the original sump plug size, but you'll be paying someone else for an over-engineered solution IMHO.


britishtrident - 30/6/14 at 12:09 PM

PTFE is OK with oil.


The thread may not be stripped just a bad or missing sealing washer.

If you do want to do something with it identify the thread and obtain a a new sump plug and washer as a first move. If it is an M12 thread then tapping oversize to M14 is an option.

An alternative is bond it permanently in using a grade of Loctite Stud & Bearing Fit intended for permanent bonding, Loctite 270 would be suitable.

Personally if it were mine I would leave it alone and suck the oil out via the dipstick hole, as I ready have a Pela 6000 vacuum oil extracter this is how I normally do oil changes as it is compeletly mess free, easy and quick.

See http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/pela-vacuum-oil-extractor-pump-6-l-6567.html?gclid=CNqIiIbHob8CFXPKtAod4UgA-Q#.U7FR9vldW-0


steve8274 - 30/6/14 at 12:58 PM

Thanks for responses.
The reason I let someone else do this basic job, is that by the time I paid for parts, it works out extra £6 for someone to do it for me. No mess, no oil to dispose of and no lying on the ground under the car cursing to get engine cover off etc.
I might look into a pela pump. Looks a good idea.
Car is a mk4 mondeo and I think it is an alloy sump.
With regards tapping for new sump, what happens with swarf when you cut new thread? How do you stop it going into sump/engine?


mcerd1 - 30/6/14 at 01:10 PM

if they work out that cheap then the first thing I'd want to know is what quality of oil are they using


Mr Whippy - 30/6/14 at 02:11 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1

if they work out that cheap then the first thing I'd want to know is what quality of oil are they using


put through a tea strainer from the last cars oil change...

[Edited on 30/6/14 by Mr Whippy]


Mr Whippy - 30/6/14 at 02:15 PM

quote:
Originally posted by steve8274
Thanks for responses.
The reason I let someone else do this basic job, is that by the time I paid for parts, it works out extra £6 for someone to do it for me. No mess, no oil to dispose of and no lying on the ground under the car cursing to get engine cover off etc.
I might look into a pela pump. Looks a good idea.
Car is a mk4 mondeo and I think it is an alloy sump.
With regards tapping for new sump, what happens with swarf when you cut new thread? How do you stop it going into sump/engine?


get some cheap oil and flush it right through after you've retapped the thread, or just pop the sump off for the price of a gasket...


britishtrident - 30/6/14 at 02:17 PM

Full synthetic oil from the supermarket is now as cheap as recycled mineral oil.
Even the cheapest supermarket synthetic is good stuff not as good as ester based synthetic but still streets ahead of straight mineral oil.


mcerd1 - 30/6/14 at 02:18 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
get some cheap oil and flush it right through after you've retapped the thread, or just pop the sump off for the price of a gasket...

not sure which engine you've got, but I bet its sealant rather than a gasket

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/221170914881?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla &crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0


Staple balls - 30/6/14 at 02:44 PM

Might be worth picking up something like 15MM OIL PAN THREAD REPAIR KIT SET SUMP DRAIN PLUG REPAIR KIT SET 7PC, to fix the sump properly(ish).

Worked nicely on our berlingo for minimal effort until the wife wrote it off, bit of a pain in the arse, but cheap enough and less of a pain than replacement.


ashg - 30/6/14 at 05:32 PM

the difference between jo bloggs and the garage is that they buy the same oil in 200L drums and do a couple of those a week where as jo bloggs buys 5L at a time and pays two sometimes three times the price!


steve8274 - 30/6/14 at 05:38 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
if they work out that cheap then the first thing I'd want to know is what quality of oil are they using


National tyres use castrol although some are switching to Fuchs. All the correct spec