Been trying to use my new Waxoyl kit today. Put the 2.5 litre can in a bucket with very warm water for about half an hour but it still comes out like thin snot!!! Whats the best way to heat it up? I presume it should come out nice and thin from the end of the flexible probe?

Have you read this...

Waxoyl tale

Waxoyl is crap

Much better products available from the likes of Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol.

Aerosols are much easier to use

I've not found waxoyl hard to use? Why are the other products better? Just because some people can't handle a compressor or do they actually perform better?

I stipuck some into a Shultz gun, nozzle got blocked and the can split spraying me in it, had to wash my hair in petrol

That aside I have always found it pretty good, provided you get in in with enough pressure that you see vapours pouring out the other end of whatever you are filling.

Not seen any vapours. Do you always have to thin it with white spirit then? How have you warmed it up then Mark C?

I sit the can in a large saucepan on a low heat for a while. Over an hour of simmering.....
It can be thinned with some white spirit to help it flow, especially this time of year.

Now, I have been using waxoil for years with success. In areas of high exposure I mix about 10-20% underseal, messy but very good once applied.
However, recently I had to repair a friends car, a chassis leg had an area of rust, very localised. The leg (it turned out) had been filled with waxoil and it had dried and pulled away in the area, trapping some water=rust.

I have also used Dinitrol, I have the very thin one which seems to creep better into existing non-shiny surfaces (ideal in box sections, door bottoms etc) and also a more robust version that is applied over the top. All seems good so far, but the car has not left the garage.....had good reports though.

I heated mine in a bucket of hot water, but it does take replacement of the water with fresh - you're heating a very large quantity of phase-changing material, it takes a lot of energy due to the melting process and large mass.

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Originally posted by coyoteboy
I've not found waxoyl hard to use? Why are the other products better? Just because some people can't handle a compressor or do they actually perform better?

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Might be worth a shot then, I've never had a problem with waxoyl but I've got a nice 2010 car I'd like to get protected ASAP with winter coming on so this thread is great. Hard to know what the UB, UC and S50 variants are designed for.

I've just Waxoyl'd the inside of my new Defender chassis, and had no problems with it. I did only use a 1L tin on the compressor-driven spray gun though, and all I did was shake vigorously for 10mins before using - already quite liquid and free-flowing (although it was a moderately warm day). I never had any issues with it before, although I have read reviews that suggest stone-chip is better used in wheel arches and areas that are prone to more high impact stones etc..