Hi all,

I am going to look at a 68 Herald convertible on Friday with someone, has anyone got any tips for what I should be looking out for?

Thanks,
Shaun

RUST

I agree - rust is the killer and it hides in all sorts of places, the out riggers are often plated with new metal and look good but the top of the box section isn't done so there is nothing with strength there. front trunions seize and a wheel falls off while you are driving. But mainly it is rust.

You can convert a saloon into an estate or a convertible by simply unbolting and replacing the appropriate bits BTW

As said, rust is the big issue. Outriggers are easy to chaop off and replace. However the main chassis rails can go. Usually around the "dip" in the diff area, but I have had a chassis which rotted from inside out right along the straight central sections.
Most mechnical stuff is pretty simple. Trunnions don't usually seize unless really badly maintained or been left in the sea. However, teh vertical; links can and do snap just above the trunnion, and that you can't check for without stripping down.

First gear will whine a bit, no synchro on first. And be aware the spare situation for good secondhand stuff is getting hard. Do not buy a saloon if you want a convertible, it is much cheaper to by a convertible in the first place (the whole rear tub needs swapping, just for starters)

I have been playing with this family of cars for well over 20 years, used to break a few too. And I still have a Spitfire, but with modern updates ....

This is a generic guide:
http://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/uploaded_files/Herald%20BUYERS%20GUIDE_2.pdf

Trunnions do seize was a regular not failure back in the day left too long it causes the vertical link to corrode through and it was not unknown to see alarming roadside failures with the vertical link snapped, but any car run as a classic won't be used in winter so less of a problem now.
Trunnions should be lubricated with (non-ep) gear oil not grease.

Engines are slightly weak prone to big and little end problems, also thrust bearing wear, also rocker shaft wear but modern oils should make this less of a problem. There is a mod for the rocker gear wear. Gearboxes can be noisey same gearbox as the Marina but for some reason less troublesome in the Triumph.

Rear wheel bearing wear is not unknown, to pull the hub off the driveshaft requires a pro-quality puller and often the application of heat.
Driveshaft universal joints can wear but easy to fix.
Brakes are Girling much the same as many cars of the era rear wheel cylinders seize but cheap and easy to fix.

Expect a lot of rattles from the body work they rattled when brand new.

Then of course there is

RUST

[Edited on 24/9/15 by britishtrident]

Re front vertiacl links,. The only seized one I have actually seen (on my GT6 when I bought it) was caused by impact damage. usually the worse case is water has got in the trunnion and corroded the VL threads causing rapid wear and lots of movement. The snapping happens "probably" because of impact damage, kerbing etc and micro cracks forming. However some cracks seem to start at what looks like minor pitting at the top of the thread, and impossible to see in situ or even with close inspection.
Sadly most cars are still running the original VL's, and have led a thoroughly miserable life. I replaced mine with "trunnionless" versions as used on caterhams.

Rear wheel bearings have rollers running direct on the rear shaft, so worn bearing normally means scrap shaft. Use the correct churchill tool or you will bend the hub and probably break most hub pullers.

The 3 synchro gearbox is related vaguely to the marina, but that is the later single rail gearbox. Heralds and spitfires(uop to the 1500) had a 3 raikl gearbox, preferred by many.

Nobody has mentioned the cornering issues. Can be scary, but there are fixes for not huge sums.

Biggest issue really is teh cr*p parts being sold. The £20 shock absorbers that are hopeless, bushes that last 10 minutes and some dreadful mechanical components. But with decent advice and spending a little more good stuff can be had.

Or do as a good friend has done. Drop in an MX5 drivetrain

Thanks for all the replies!

It is a 13/60 that has been garaged for the last 3 years and then put though an MOT in July which it passed with an advisory on the rear brakes sticking when I am told has been rectified. It has have front disc/pads replaced and an new exhaust along with some other bits before the MOT too. It is a genuine convertible.

It least i can go up armed with some info!

Thanks!

Since its been mentioned a few times I'll explain where I come from. The vertical link does break occasionally due to it seizing where it meets the trunion, often caused by bad maintenance. The first I knew of it was when my wife phoned me at home when the front wheel of her (new to us) 13/60 Herald estate had come off while she was driving to work. Luckily the car had just dig a gouge in the tarmac and come to a stop. The vertical link had broken due to it being stiff/seized from poor maintenance by the previous owner. Since then I have seen a few similar on the Herald, Morris Minor and indeed the Ital/Marina range with similar issues.

We had no such similar issues with any of the 3 previous Heralds we owned.

Don't forget to lift the rear seat base. Not fixed, and can hide some "interesting" stuff.
Also check it has the additional door latches. Very important as they really help reduce (notice reduce) body flex.

I had one for many years, and loved it.

The cornering can be fun, but you can get a handle on it without fitting mods, originally came with crossplys', radials help a lot, just don't expect it to handle like a modern car.
Also remember these where built when you the owner was expected to go in once a week or so and do stuff of a maintenance variety.
The biggest problem I found was previously bodged repairs, that went on to cause other problems.

And yes I would have one again.