And the red mist decends...
Phil_1471 - 23/2/16 at 09:42 PM
Very rarely do I get that annoyed I feel like I should share it with a world of people I don't know, but who ever invented 'Rubnuts'
rubber nut inserts or what ever rediculous name you have for them needs shooting. I know have 7 rubberised nuts floating around my chassis tubes with
know way of extracting them and a hole too big for a rivetnut to be inserted.
Awful, awful things!
Rant over, no sarcastic comments about my rubber nuts either please
Kind regards
Philip
gremlin1234 - 23/2/16 at 09:59 PM
quote:
now have 7 rubberised nuts floating around my chassis
and they will rattle for ever more...
(hint, glue them down with waxoil or similar)
mark chandler - 23/2/16 at 10:06 PM
My chassis has welded nuts, drilling big holes adds weakness.
My car has some rubber inserts with brass threads, they may not corrode in place but yiu cannot rely on them to stay put.
bi22le - 23/2/16 at 10:11 PM
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:
now have 7 rubberised nuts floating around my chassis
and they will rattle for ever more...
(hint, glue them down with waxoil or similar)
I would like to have rivnuts as a whole added to this rant!!
They have spun and ripped out of fibre glass, spun and new methods used on my chassis grrrrr.
This is why when (ha ha, like this is ever going to happen!) I get to do a chassis back rebuild ill be pretty much giving my chassis to the scrap man
and buying a new TR one from RAW for £780.
I feel you pain brother.
Phil_1471 - 23/2/16 at 11:21 PM
Blood still boiling. Agreed with Rivnuts too, both are toss.
russbost - 24/2/16 at 08:57 AM
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
My chassis has welded nuts, drilling big holes adds weakness.
My car has some rubber inserts with brass threads, they may not corrode in place but yiu cannot rely on them to stay put.
Drilling a large hole would indeed weaken a tube slightly, however if the hole is then filled with a nut which is welded into the tube it is going to
be at least as strong as it was originally, the additional thickness of the nut spreading the load into the surrounding tube. The problem with welding
nuts in is that unless this is a repeat project & you already know exactly where you will need the nuts in the tube you can't do it at the
chassis welding stage hence after chassis is powder coated, painted or whatever, you are going to make a mess of that by welding nuts in - bit of a
catch 22, plus you have the risk of welding spatter damaging stuff around the area you're welding or worse catching fire!
I find rivnuts usually work ok at least in steel, wouldn't really trust them in fibreglass unless there is some depth so they can be bonded in as
well as their own expansion grip, sometimes a "P" clip or similar using rivets is a better choice
prawnabie - 24/2/16 at 09:02 AM
I've never had a problem (yet!) with the serrated rivnuts in metal, but whoever uses them in fiberglass needs shooting!!!
Neville Jones - 24/2/16 at 10:46 AM
There exists special 'rivnut' type things just for composites. Not easy to find and not cheap. A bonded in fastener is much better though.
MikeRJ - 24/2/16 at 12:15 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Phil_1471
Very rarely do I get that annoyed I feel like I should share it with a world of people I don't know, but who ever invented 'Rubnuts'
rubber nut inserts or what ever rediculous name you have for them needs shooting. I know have 7 rubberised nuts floating around my chassis tubes with
know way of extracting them and a hole too big for a rivetnut to be inserted.
Awful, awful things!
Rant over, no sarcastic comments about my rubber nuts either please
Kind regards
Philip
Sorry, but this simply sounds like inappropriate use for well nuts. Why would you use a well nut in a thin wall tube rather than either a rivnut or a
welded nut?
Phil_1471 - 24/2/16 at 12:18 PM
I'd love to know the appropriate use for them full stop!
nick205 - 24/2/16 at 04:10 PM
Rivnuts worked fine for me on my Indy build - can be fiddly to fit well, but once in they give a good threaded fixing point.
Camber Dave - 24/2/16 at 05:41 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Phil_1471
I'd love to know the appropriate use for them full stop!
I came across them on a F Ford racing car to mount a radiator of oil cooler, I think.
HOWEVER they were pushed onto the end of a tube (welded to the frame).
Thus tightening them squeezed the full length of fastener against the wall of the tube and gave a flexy mounting.
Originally I think they were cavity wall bolts
Bluemoon - 24/2/16 at 07:59 PM
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Rivnuts worked fine for me on my Indy build - can be fiddly to fit well, but once in they give a good threaded fixing point.
Ditto never had an issue if used correctly, think they are great things, just choose the correct size for the job, and hole also debur hole and make
sure the hole is only "just" big enough for the rivnut to pass (0.1mm set of drills help a lot)... Practice on some scrap of the same
thickens as the chassis to be sure you can get them to set correctly. Never used countersunk ones they could be a PITA.
If you do need to drill one out you will never hear them rattle in a 7, to many other noises.
As to the rubber ones, well they are not structural and I would guess only good to low torque values not sure I would use them on the car. Maybe use
only for galvanic corrosion corrosion or vibration isolation, but reluctantly.
Phil_1471 - 24/2/16 at 08:52 PM
They have been used to mount body panels (not by me might I add) kind of committed to them by default :upset/slightlyangryface:
gaz_gaz - 24/2/16 at 09:29 PM
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:
now have 7 rubberised nuts floating around my chassis
and they will rattle for ever more...
(hint, glue them down with waxoil or similar)
I would like to have rivnuts as a whole added to this rant!!
They have spun and ripped out of fibre glass, spun and new methods used on my chassis grrrrr.
This is why when (ha ha, like this is ever going to happen!) I get to do a chassis back rebuild ill be pretty much giving my chassis to the scrap man
and buying a new TR one from RAW for £780.
I feel you pain brother.
£780 for a new lowered striker chassis.
Wow that's cheaper than I thought they would be