will take off all the stuck on fallout bits and leave virgin clean paint ready for a quality wax to bond to,
see youtube vids for info,
My white A4 looks the biz when clean and white cleans pretty easy, I just use triple wax and a sponge.
What I have trouble with is all of the little orange specs and hard stuff to shift. I use my finger nail most of the time as it is soft so wont damage
the paint. It seems that I need something more though to shift all of the specs.
I dont want to detail it, I just want to get the more sticky stuff off. I feel like T cut would be the kind of thing but cant help thinking there is a
more modern better product out there.
Suggestions?
ferecla g3 clay mitt from halfords,use very slippery soapy water with it,and pressure of the wet mitt only,
will take off all the stuck on fallout bits and leave virgin clean paint ready for a quality wax to bond to,
see youtube vids for info,
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=330602&highlight=g3+mitt
Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is a awesome all purpose cleaner/degreaser.
Dilute it to 50% with water for use under arches and on bodywork,but be warned it does remove any wax/polish you have on the bodywork.
The best way by far to remove contaminants from the paint surface is to clay bar it,doesn't take long tbf and you can see what is being removed
by the clay bar.
I have a lump of clay that pulls all sorts out of paint without damaging it, but you have to apply some sort of protection to it as it really strips
everything off the paint.
I used it mostly on my wife's Almera, the paint was really soft and there would be all sorts stuck to it. My Toledo never seemed to pick much up.
It wasn't expensive, and it lasts years. And it's easy to work with, just need a spray bottle with soapy water and a pre-washed car.
Cheers for the replies.
It seems that these products that are strong enough to remove the bits on the paint week remove all protection. This means a third product / step is
required.
It seems I am starting to slip down the slippery slope of detailing. Which I don't mind but I don't have the time. I get about an hour to
completely clean the car, inside and out.
Do process seems to be
1 Just water to soak
2 cleaner applied with sponge and then rinsed off
3 Clay bar or more aggressive cleaner
4 Wax / protection layer.
Does that sound right?
autoglym tar remover works perfectly. put a bit on a cloth and rub and all the grubby poo like bugs and tar come off really easy and it doesn't need diluting or damage the paint.
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
autoglym tar remover works perfectly. put a bit on a cloth and rub and all the grubby poo like bugs and tar come off really easy and it doesn't need diluting or damage the paint.
Don't buy a white car? One of the people who lives on our (tree lined) street bought themselves a brand new white Nissan Juke. But from day 1 in order to avoid parking it under a tree they park it right outside our house as there's a gap in the trees! No doubt they see the extra walk worth it (by avoiding having to wash the car). By the time I get home everyone else will have finished work and parked outside their own home. So for me it just means a walk and a car covered in tree shite! Wouldn't mind if they parked a nice looking vehicle outside!
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Cheers for the replies.
It seems that these products that are strong enough to remove the bits on the paint week remove all protection. This means a third product / step is required.
It seems I am starting to slip down the slippery slope of detailing. Which I don't mind but I don't have the time. I get about an hour to completely clean the car, inside and out.
Do process seems to be
1 Just water to soak
2 cleaner applied with sponge and then rinsed off
3 Clay bar or more aggressive cleaner
4 Wax / protection layer.
Does that sound right?
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
autoglym tar remover works perfectly. put a bit on a cloth and rub and all the grubby poo like bugs and tar come off really easy and it doesn't need diluting or damage the paint.
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Cheers for the replies.
It seems that these products that are strong enough to remove the bits on the paint week remove all protection. This means a third product / step is required.
It seems I am starting to slip down the slippery slope of detailing. Which I don't mind but I don't have the time. I get about an hour to completely clean the car, inside and out.
Do process seems to be
1 Just water to soak
2 cleaner applied with sponge and then rinsed off
3 Clay bar or more aggressive cleaner
4 Wax / protection layer.
Does that sound right?
It's hardly detailing!!!!
It's just basic car maintenance tbh.
I wouldn't worry about removing protection off the paint,as you can't have any on it if it's getting stained anyway.
Auto Glym super resin polish is pretty easy to use,will clean up the paint and protect it
It needs polishing and waxing to do it right.
But AG SR is a easy to use polish, and it does protect it plenty well enough tbh,as you can see by the water beading after polishing
I'd just use TFR. A couple of sprays and it will take anything off. TFR = traffic film remover. I buy a 25 litre container and dilute it at about 25 - 40 to 1 with water (it being the 1). Wash and anything comes off. Lasts ages, in my case about 10 years. Of course you can buy it at prodigious prices as 'alloy wheel cleaner' and other such products at £10 for 500ml where the 25 litre container costs about double that price. Your choice :-)
I use WD40 to get tar marks off my "normal" cars which seems to work very well... not quite sure what else it takes off - but it works!
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
It's hardly detailing!!!!
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
It's hardly detailing!!!!
Anything involving more than soapy water is detailing!
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Seems this forum is full of lazy arses!
Muc-off bike cleaner will do it, may be a bit expensive for every wash, but it gets all sorts of crap off bikes.