So the tin-top needs new front suspension arms - E61 Bemmer.
Side 1 went well with no major issues.
However side 2 (N/S) is proving to be a complete balls ache (geddit?).
No matter what I try the lower taper will just not crack.
So far I've tried two sizes of finger - levered and lump hammered, soaked it in penetrating oil overnight, bought and bent a substantial screwed separator, then solid iron bar on top of the joint thread + lump hammer - stiil the fricking thing wont move.
BTW I cant hammer the housing as it's cast ali.
I did think of heating the casting but brake caliper, hoses and wires are a bit close...
Any suggestions gratefully received.
TIA. Cheers, Pewe10

Use an adaptor like this in an air chisel to push the taper out, the steel insert may come out instead, but it can then be separated in a press.

Description

Dave

Sounds like a stubborn bu88er!

I've had success with a fork tool and club hammer before. If the ball joint's being replaced then damaging it on removal shouldn't be an issue.

i am sure i have one of the air chisel breakers if you want to borrow it ?

Thanks guys.
Having now broken one of the big fingers I bought to do the job I've given up.
Car was already booked into the supplying trader for central locking problem early next week so they can fix it - thank goodness it's still driveable.
Having talked to an Indie he reckons its not uncommon for the ball joints to be fricking impossible.
When all else fails they heat the ali casting then apply brute force but that's not something I'm prepared to do lying on my back on the drive - there are limits...
Never had these problems with the SAAB!
Cheers, Pewe10

I've had stubborn ball joint tapers before, but some brute force and one of those fork tools has always got it out in the end.

Thinking about Peugeot 205 GTI front wishbone outer ball joints the taper has a groove around it, which helps secure it with a bolt in the up upright. I presume you've got anything like that removed so there's nothing mechanical keeping it in place?

Funnily enough, Nick, the guy who sold me the fork tool said the worst one he's ever come across was a Peugeot 205...
Yes all securing undone - in fact only a lock-nut.
I did the other side no probs but assume being N/S it's had more grit/salt hitting it so corrosion could be a factor (soaked it overnight with penetrating oil but zero effect).
Thanks for the offer Conrod but a bit far.
Cheers, Pewe10

quote:

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Originally posted by pewe
Funnily enough, Nick, the guy who sold me the fork tool said the worst one he's ever come across was a Peugeot 205...
Yes all securing undone - in fact only a lock-nut.
I did the other side no probs but assume being N/S it's had more grit/salt hitting it so corrosion could be a factor (soaked it overnight with penetrating oil but zero effect).
Thanks for the offer Conrod but a bit far.
Cheers, Pewe10

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I had the same issue with my e64, believe they are the same arms.
The issue with the fork style separator is they are often not wide enough to go around the base of the ball joint, in the end I released the bush end, heated the casing then twisted the arm round to make more accessible, then beat it with a club hammer, took about 2 hours of heating and beating before it finally gave up.

I'm not familiar with the E61 / E64 front ball joint to upright arrangement - is it a taper held in place be a pinch bolt or just through a hole with a nut on top?

If it's a pinch bolt can you drive cold chisel in to force the pinch section open? This is how the Pug 205 is done and a method I've used before to help free the taper from the upright.

Just a thought.

For clarity the image below shows the 205 gti front upright. The arrowed part is a where a clamp bolt goes through the upright around the taper of the front wish bone outer ball joint. Once the bolt's removed you can hammer a cold chisel in from below to help force the clamp section apart and get the ball joint out. As above I don't know if the BMW has a similar arrangement, but thought this may help.

I've had some be difficult over the years. Had more success recently with a screw/lever type tool that had a ball bearing in the end of the bolt. I think you can get a few extra turns on it before the friction binds it up. Might have been a Laser one from Halfords.