Morning all - Just thought I'd ask the global collective if anyone has any thoughts on my poorly V70.

It's a 2008MY (on a 57 plate) D5 Auto E4 engine.

It broke down in France - just cut out going down hill. Wouldn't restart. It eventually did restart after I disconnected various loom plugs I could reach and plugged them back in. It ran - but in limp home mode.

Drove a painful journey home at ridiculous speeds - fully laden car so 20 to 30mph up any incline.

Eventually got home (on back of low loader) and used VIDA/DICE to scan the car (Volvo's official software/diagnosis tool)

One error stood out ECM-P019300 - That's Fuel Rail Pressure High Input.

Over several weeks -

Changed the sensor for a Bosch genuine one - same issue.

Peeled back the loom and found two of the three wires chaffed - soldered and repaired - same issue.

Replaced the fuel pressure valve with a second had unit - much worse and knocked like a good'un! Put old unit back on.

Tested the end of the "naked" loom - Appeared to have 4.93v on all three pins - I would have expected at least one earth.

"Earth" pin doesn't test for continuity - it appears to have +4.93v.

Disconnected the sensor completely - same issue - so probably nothing ring with sensor

That led me to think it MUST be a loom or ECU issue.

Took the car to a specialist Volvo place suspecting the loom or ECU. They confirmed it's probably the loom of ECU.

So - back to square one really.

Priced up the loom and ECU from Volvo - 2.4K inc plus fitting. Easily a 3k bill I would have thought.

So I'm now debating changing the engine loom myself - not sure how much of a nightmare this will be - and then if that doesn't sort it - try and have the ECU cloned to a "new" unit.

Has anyone any advice to give? Anything i should have tried and missed out? It's an old car I appreciate but low ish miles (130k) for its year and it pains me to get give up on it.

Have you checked the fuel filter and pump? Just wondering if that "high" code is misleading and its just referring to the sensor on the high pressure input being wrong, not that the pressure is reading too high? If the pressure is in fact not high enough then it could be a fuel system issue.

Have you also checked that it isn't misfuelled? Even if you used the diesel pump it is quite possible the filling station put the wrong fuel in the bulk tank. Also, I was in France last week and spotted another brit on the next pump just about to fill up their diesel car with E85. I called over just in time. He genuinely believed E85 was french diesel! Not suggesting anyone on this forum is that thick but we all have our moments!

Thanks Sanz - Some good calls there.

Yes - it's a phantom reading as it is exactly the same without it even being connected! It also comes up BEFORE I start the car - but that could be misleading and an error it can't clear. Could also be that the fault IS rectified as I believe but the ECU refuses to let it clear.

It did have a good tank of French diesel in there - def did put diesel in - French pumps often seem quite dirty and my hands stank of it! Not sure on the quality though but it was Intermarche, so I'd hope not too crap?

I haven't put fuel in though since - perhaps I should put some more English fuel in just in case? Good call, thank you.

I've not checked filter and pump, but filter was changed last year for the service and pump isn't displaying any issues. With the sensor disconnected though - it still reads the same (180,000 hpa and should be 35,000 hpa I think) - So i do think it's a phantom error. If it changed when connected I'd assume that something works and is being monitored - without a change it's like it can't even see a sensor, or it's grounded out/up?

I'll chat with the specialists again when I pick it up tonight and nurse it home. I'm hoping they can say it's DEFINATELY a wiring issue because XXX (I'd say the lack of an apparent earth is a fair assumption) and then I feel at least I'll have something to go on. As it is now - You're right, could be filter, pump, fuel, wiring, ECU, Swedish randomness....

Thank you so much for replying, really appreciate any comments or suggestions, no matter how odd they might sound. Car has been off the road now over a month and I desperately need to resolve this!

Cheers

The 1800 bar reading is the max the sensor can read, and would be the case if there is no earth to pull the signal down, so there is no actual sensor fault.
350 bar is what to expect at idle with everything working fine, with a max of 1600bar under full load at 2000rpm+.

If you've definately id'd the earth wire and it has no continuity to earth, you can just steal the earth connection from another engine sensor to test the issue (don't go to body earth as it may be isolated from sensor earth), just backprobe the connectors with a pin on each and join the two pins together.

If this makes things ok, then you need to backprobe the ecu pin that should supply the earth and repeat as above, if the engine remains running fine then the loom is damaged, if the fault reoccurs then the ecu is at fault.

If the ecu is at fault, a company like actronics or bba reman will be able to test and repair your ecu without any prgramming required.


Dave

quote:

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Originally posted by obfripper
The 1800 bar reading is the max the sensor can read, and would be the case if there is no earth to pull the signal down, so there is no actual sensor fault.
350 bar is what to expect at idle with everything working fine, with a max of 1600bar under full load at 2000rpm+.

If you've definately id'd the earth wire and it has no continuity to earth, you can just steal the earth connection from another engine sensor to test the issue (don't go to body earth as it may be isolated from sensor earth), just backprobe the connectors with a pin on each and join the two pins together.

If this makes things ok, then you need to backprobe the ecu pin that should supply the earth and repeat as above, if the engine remains running fine then the loom is damaged, if the fault reoccurs then the ecu is at fault.

If the ecu is at fault, a company like actronics or bba reman will be able to test and repair your ecu without any prgramming required.


Dave

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Thanks again all - Car is now back from the specialist - and they're still confident it's a wiring fault (or was) that then may have damaged the ECM/ECU.

I've spent a few hours studying the wiring diagram and pin-outs and I'm confident I have identified the three pins, their colour and the pins it should go to on the ECU.

Will spend some time tomorrow during my lunch break and have a look!

Thanks all

Good to hear progress is made.

Question - If it's a 57 plate 2008 car is there enough value left in the car to be chasing/repairing things like ECUs (could prove £££)?

I know well as a Locoster the actual money value of the car is not always what it's all about, but still a question to ask yourself.

quote:

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Originally posted by nick205
Good to hear progress is made.

Question - If it's a 57 plate 2008 car is there enough value left in the car to be chasing/repairing things like ECUs (could prove £££)?

I know well as a Locoster the actual money value of the car is not always what it's all about, but still a question to ask yourself.

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Sounds like you are making progress - some excellent ideas on here. Changing the fuel filter is not a bad idea as a cheap thing to do. A couple of very random thoughts from me - all the fuel lines/connection in good nick and done up properly? No air leaks on the induction?

Have you checked any Volvo forums to see if this is a known problem?

Good luck and hope a Locost approach is successful without too much further stress or cost.

Cheers
Mike

[Edited on 15/7/22 by Mike Wood]

quote:

---

Originally posted by nick205
Good to hear progress is made.

Question - If it's a 57 plate 2008 car is there enough value left in the car to be chasing/repairing things like ECUs (could prove £££)?

I know well as a Locoster the actual money value of the car is not always what it's all about, but still a question to ask yourself.

---

An update everyone - Drumroll......

My massive respect and thanks to Dave/obfripper....The car is fixed!!

It literally nearly bought me to tears when she fired up, not only sounding healthier but also the ECM-P019300 error cleared.

Car is performing exactly as it should again - DTC was cleared and remains cleared after driving too.

I'm so so pleased and so grateful.

I took the signal ground from the near by water temp sensor, burnt back a little insulation using the soldering iron and soldered in a fly lead. Will tidy this up again this evening with some heatshrink.

So Dave was right - just the sensor missing it's signal ground from the loom. Loom looks completely fine from what I can see - but there must be a break/short further up the lead within the loom.

I had tried a combination of the earth before, but I'd not used another sensor but a body earth, and I'd kept the existing (faulty) cable connected - Dave's sterling logical advice was exactly right.

Thank you all though for pitching in and offering suggestions and advice - I massively appreciate it. Things are tight at the moment (as they are for us all) but writing the car off was just not something we could afford or want to do. Ironically tried to use the wife's car this morning after I'd fixed mine and now that's not running right....but we'll sort something out with that.

So thank you all so much again - especially Dave and his advice - exactly the issue and fixed for pennies. Dave - I'll drop you a U2 message

result!!!!!!!

Big result!

Good work and effort.

...and I too hate being beaten by technology.

Nice one. Also great to see the power of combined knowledge that a club like this can bring.

Superb!

Locost builders to the rescue.

This is the story of problem I hate. Glad to see it's resolved.

(I was wondering about earth when I saw the voltage comments. Word of caution, the earth has failed, how close are the other wires to failure?