https://youtu.be/kx-DyuIcGGc

I found this interesting, especially as I run a hard mounted bike engine.

Interesting, but bear in mind they are trying to flog you their wonder washers, in 20 years of working with hard mounted bike engines & around 15 or so vehicles, I never had a nylock nut come undone on any part of the car, spring washered ones, yes, tho' not frequently & mainly wing mountings so possibly some particular wind speed oscillation involved on top of any existing vibration

Interesting video but if the nut and bolt are tightened to an appropriate torque this doesn't happen.

In that video I didn't find any mention of how the joint was designed, what load it was taking etc....

The difficult bit is calculating the "appropriate torque" for the bolt/nut.

I have been involved in designing the bolted joint between brake calipers and suspension knuckles for the last 25 years. If you understand the load being transferred through the joint and you know all the details of the parts involved it's perfectly possible to design a plain old bolted joint that will last for the life of the car when driven over even the roughest roads or when used with a solid mounted engine or transmission.

[Edited on 4/4/23 by JAG]

^^ they are good and are 100% reusable (with care taken to make sure thay are the right way round) - I've used them for quite a few years now

https://www.nord-lock.com/en-gb/nord-lock/?_gl=1*1f4w55n*_up*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjwla-hBhD7ARIsAM9tQKtSTCZeR3xLHbHpIDZSit7rVqAkcQD-m0J1oTyKzbtrEIQ_xY btqHcaAkxbEALw_wcB


but they don't work for every application - and if you don't use them right they don't work at all
main things to keep in mind are:

1 - if your not torqueing them down properly they won't work - they need to bite in ( here's the torque guide: linky - give recommended values for each size & grade )

2 - if you want to use them with a bolt & nut then you need a pair of them (one under the bolt head / one under the nut)

3 - you can't use them in combination with any other washers


I've got a few on the car too, mainly things like the front upright pinch & propshaft bolts - all stuff that would typically only get a bit of threadlock (not that there is anything much wrong with that - just the washers might come off a little easier in future)



[Edited on 4/4/2023 by mcerd1]

[Edited on 4/4/2023 by mcerd1]

I too have used them on fasteners in high vibration environments. They worked perfectly.

That said, I'd go with nylok until it proved to be not enough, and then I'd be looking at why the joint was struggling.

I've been going to my local fastener supplier (Suffolk Fasteners, Ipswich) for at least 15 years, maybe more.

Every time I've gone there, I've seen an advert for these washers fixed over the sales counter.

They look like fancy star washers to me
Graham

Nylon locking nuts have done me OK in the past and I'd stick with them going forwards.

The YouTube video seems to me a marketing video to me for their product.

quote:

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Originally posted by jacko
They look like fancy star washers to me
Graham

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If you engine vibrates to that level then you have other problems...

quote:

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Originally posted by Mr Whippy
If you engine vibrates to that level then you have other problems...

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Strangely of all the motorbikes I've owned the engine has always stayed in the frame without a hint of them dropping out.

'friction not reliable locking method'
99.9999% of friction held bolts everywhere 'hold my beer'

In all my years of cars and bikes I've yet to see a single correctly tightened nut fall off. The amount of energy in their test rig must be like a Saturn rocket!

Then again stop motion is quite easy to do...