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Lanoguard
russbost - 15/6/23 at 07:47 AM

Hi Guys

Has anyone used Lanoguard, comments for or against or any other similar product?

I've used waxoyl in the past & not been particularly impressed, difficult to apply completely & quite messy too

Lanoguard seems to have some good reviews, but is certainly pricey - looking at it for protection on classic vehicles rather than kit cars, though I guess it has a use there also

TIA, Russ


nick205 - 15/6/23 at 08:59 AM

Not used it myself.

When building my MK Indy I used an aerosol Waxoyl it the rivet and other holes drilled in the chassis. Did it work - no idea really - it was my Dad's and handy on the shelf.


cliftyhanger - 15/6/23 at 09:37 AM

I contacted Lanoguard a while ago, asking for any independant test results. The answer. They had lots of good reviews.....

I am about to do a long term test on a number of rust protection products. However, what I can say is that Dynax and Dinitrol products aere WAY better than waxoyl. I have used Dinitrol 3125 for seams/box sections etc (very thin, and similar to Dynax S50) And I used a dinitrol hard waz=x in wheelarches etc. Remarkably tough and cleans off seasily with while spirit. 8 years, 35K miles are only a couple of places need a refresh.


Mr Whippy - 15/6/23 at 11:58 AM

Just seems an old product someone's sunk a heap into advertisement lately, with some big boob bimbo making sexual innuendos, it's all over the web and Youtube.

All I have gleaned is it smells of sheep and has to be applied every year. Doesn't seem to be any more effective than spraying your car with Thompson's water seal as it does nothing other than repel water. Their kits all seem to be a spray and some tub of grease you slap on, but slapping on any old grease will do the same thing.

Personally I just thin old used engine oil down with some petrol and spray that under the car with a squirty bottle, it's free and stops it rusting.






[Edited on 15/6/23 by Mr Whippy]


ReMan - 15/6/23 at 03:03 PM

Interested.
I'd like something that has any effect on existing light surface rust , as you would find under any car
I've looked at laneguard and waxoyle, i'm guessing the y both simply cover and waterproof , like vaseline or olive oil would :-) with out any other properties?


sebastiaan - 16/6/23 at 07:23 AM

I'd second the Dinitrol suggestion. Messy (they all are) but seems good so far on both cars I've used it on. A 50 year old Alfa and a 43 year old land rover...

As for Lanogard, this seems to be the same stuff as Fluid Film and a whole raft of other lanolin based products. Maybe Fluid Film has some more non-anecdotal evidence?


cliftyhanger - 16/6/23 at 07:35 AM

quote:
Originally posted by ReMan
Interested.
I'd like something that has any effect on existing light surface rust , as you would find under any car
I've looked at laneguard and waxoyle, i'm guessing the y both simply cover and waterproof , like vaseline or olive oil would :-) with out any other properties?


The Dinitrol 3125 and Dynax S50 are both very thin, and designed to soak into surface rust. Ideal for inside sills and seams etc, and indeed over any steel that shows light rust. However, on exposed areas, coating with a tougher product once the thin stuff has dried is a good idea. Just using a thicker product results in the stuff peeling off and water getting underneath. Waxoyl is notorious for that.

If you have a big can of waxoyl, you can mix about 25% underseal with it. Horrible stuff to use, but if seems to last much better than either product. I have wondered if waxoyl woul dbenefit from teh addition of some engine oil to stop it drying out, but with better products available, I have not experimented.


Mr Whippy - 16/6/23 at 08:18 AM

For years now I've just been using oil left over from oil changes. Anyone who's worked under a car knows oil leaks are great for preventing rust. In tin tops I simply pour it into the sills, rear arches etc with a funnel and hose, plugging the drain holes before hand. Then drain out the excess overnight.

It can be hard work to brush it on as it's too thick but thinned with about 10% petrol can be sprayed from any old bottle sprayer and the petrol evaporates in a couple of hours leaving a nice even coat behind. Some may say that's not great for any motor cyclists in the rain but water does not wash off the oil at all.


adithorp - 16/6/23 at 10:49 AM

I used to do work on vehicles belonging to a company that dealt in shoddy**. Their collection truck was covered in a waxy layer of lanolin from the process and despite being ancient didn't have any rust on it (in an era when everything rotted). Probably a good job they never needed welding as the combo of that and the wool fluff stuck to it was highly combustable!


**recycled wool scraps; the (literally) crappy bits from sheep's fleeces).


Mr Whippy - 16/6/23 at 11:49 AM

Personally using something that stinks of stinky sheep is enough of a put off for me no matter how much it protects, might appeal to some people though...


Iomlocosts4 - 19/6/23 at 09:11 AM

cosmoline equivalent. I am using something similar. it stinks but it keeps out moisture even on wet rusted steel. I am using it everywhere and I dont have a garage.


russbost - 19/6/23 at 12:42 PM

Thanks for all the input guys, I'll take a look at the Dinitrol & Dynax stuff.

I was skeptical of the Lanoguard cos of the advertising, when something seems too good to be true it is usually falsified!


SJ - 21/6/23 at 03:31 PM

quote:
Originally posted by sebastiaan
I'd second the Dinitrol suggestion. Messy (they all are) but seems good so far on both cars I've used it on. A 50 year old Alfa and a 43 year old land rover...

As for Lanogard, this seems to be the same stuff as Fluid Film and a whole raft of other lanolin based products. Maybe Fluid Film has some more non-anecdotal evidence?


I had a '76 'sud that was treated with Dinitrol. It was still on original sills at over 20 years old. Very good stuff