corrado vr6
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 08:56 PM |
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Wildwood sticky caliper.
Hi all, I have wilwood clippers fitted to my Indy and the last few times I have test driven it (as not IVA'd) it has squealed on the front n/s,
my initial reaction was to put copper grease on the back of the pads, but this didn't help.
I then for some reason had to push the kit forward and with the handbrake off I could barely push it forward! So I'm assuming it's a
sticky caliperHi and the pistons aren't taking the pressure off the pads.
Any suggestions as to what I can do?
Many thanks in advance
Greg
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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britishtrident
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:00 PM |
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What happens when you crack open a bleed nipple ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:03 PM |
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First check that the master cylinder is set properly and the piston is returning as it should, the drilling to the reservoir should be uncovered
pedal up if not you get constant pressure in the system = stuck on callipers.
Easy way to test, stamp on the brake pedal and release, if the car is now hard to push crack open one of the bleed nipples, if the fluid is under
pressure you will get a little squirt and the car will now roll.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 29/6/13 by mark chandler]
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:10 PM |
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Cracking I'll do this test tomorrow and report back,
So if the fluid is under pressure when I crack off a bleed nipple, does that mean my bmc is screwed???
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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mark chandler
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:15 PM |
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It usually means that your pushrod from pedal to cylinder is to long which stops the piston from returning past the drilling, if its not adjustable
file 1/4" off the rod and try again 
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Dusty
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:20 PM |
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I discovered this myself two days ago, sadly not before I stripped one of the calipers which was fine. The Wilwood m/c is stuck forward, the pedal is
flapping in the breeze, the car is glued to the spot. New 0.625 m/c ordered.
Is this a common problem with Wilwood?
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:21 PM |
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Ah ok ill check that, fingers crossed that's all it is
Thanks
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:23 PM |
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My m/c is a ford item only my brakes are wilwood so difficult to tell for sure
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:50 PM |
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Another cause for dragging brakes can be a collapsed brake hose which then acts as a valve holding pressure in the caliper.
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 09:53 PM |
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Good point, however there all braided hoses so I wouldn't have thought this could happen, could it?
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 29/6/13 at 10:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by corrado vr6
Good point, however there all braided hoses so I wouldn't have thought this could happen, could it?
Probably not unless they had been kinked
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corrado vr6
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| posted on 1/7/13 at 09:27 PM |
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***update***
well i checked my pushrod and ys it was slightly to long, so i trimmed it down and also found that my brake pedal pivot point i had tightened the nut
a bit to much it was stopping the pedal from returning and allowing the bmc to to relax.
After sorting the above i was able to push it with ease even aftr slaming and pumping tha brakes, however my front brakes still squeal like pigs, as i
said at the start i have put copper grease on the back of the pads already.
The only other thing i can think of is i remember someone saying that wilwoods dont have dust caps on them, could this be the issue or are the dust
caps just covering the bleed nipples?
Thanks for all your help so far!!
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/7/13 at 08:45 AM |
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Putting a small chamfer ,about 3mm, around the edges of the friction material sometimes helps with brake noise. make sure the pads are free to move in
the caliper with the pistons retracted, perhaps put a smear of Coppaslip on the area where the pad slides in the caliper
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