myke pocock
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 07:06 PM |
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Waxoyl
Been trying to use my new Waxoyl kit today. Put the 2.5 litre can in a bucket with very warm water for about half an hour but it still comes out like
thin snot!!! Whats the best way to heat it up? I presume it should come out nice and thin from the end of the flexible probe?
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adithorp
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 07:32 PM |
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Have you read this...
Waxoyl tale
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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CosKev3
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 08:02 PM |
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Waxoyl is crap 
Much better products available from the likes of Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol.
Aerosols are much easier to use
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 08:31 PM |
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I've not found waxoyl hard to use? Why are the other products better? Just because some people can't handle a compressor or do they
actually perform better?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 08:31 PM |
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I stipuck some into a Shultz gun, nozzle got blocked and the can split spraying me in it, had to wash my hair in petrol 
That aside I have always found it pretty good, provided you get in in with enough pressure that you see vapours pouring out the other end of whatever
you are filling.
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myke pocock
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 08:36 PM |
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Not seen any vapours. Do you always have to thin it with white spirit then? How have you warmed it up then Mark C?
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 08:54 PM |
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I sit the can in a large saucepan on a low heat for a while. Over an hour of simmering.....
It can be thinned with some white spirit to help it flow, especially this time of year.
Now, I have been using waxoil for years with success. In areas of high exposure I mix about 10-20% underseal, messy but very good once applied.
However, recently I had to repair a friends car, a chassis leg had an area of rust, very localised. The leg (it turned out) had been filled with
waxoil and it had dried and pulled away in the area, trapping some water=rust.
I have also used Dinitrol, I have the very thin one which seems to creep better into existing non-shiny surfaces (ideal in box sections, door bottoms
etc) and also a more robust version that is applied over the top. All seems good so far, but the car has not left the garage.....had good reports
though.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 10:25 PM |
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I heated mine in a bucket of hot water, but it does take replacement of the water with fresh - you're heating a very large quantity of
phase-changing material, it takes a lot of energy due to the melting process and large mass.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 16/10/14 at 10:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
I've not found waxoyl hard to use? Why are the other products better? Just because some people can't handle a compressor or do they
actually perform better?
Better in all areas from my experience.
Easier to apply, thinner so gets in all small areas etc, does not crack like waxoyl does if applied too thick, looks better.
Will never use Waxoyl again
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 17/10/14 at 10:38 AM |
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Might be worth a shot then, I've never had a problem with waxoyl but I've got a nice 2010 car I'd like to get protected ASAP with
winter coming on so this thread is great. Hard to know what the UB, UC and S50 variants are designed for.
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Charlie_Zetec
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| posted on 17/10/14 at 11:00 AM |
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I've just Waxoyl'd the inside of my new Defender chassis, and had no problems with it. I did only use a 1L tin on the compressor-driven
spray gun though, and all I did was shake vigorously for 10mins before using - already quite liquid and free-flowing (although it was a moderately
warm day). I never had any issues with it before, although I have read reviews that suggest stone-chip is better used in wheel arches and areas that
are prone to more high impact stones etc..
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!
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