Mr Whippy
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 11:27 AM |
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underseal blaster pump options?
Hi, I want to blast thinned down underseal (black stuff, thinned with lots of white spirit) inside another landy chassis I have got hold of,
there's a large hole on the bottom which I was going to stick a garden hose into and blast the stuff right up inside the chassis basically
totally soaking inside and the excess pouring back out the hole, maybe into a basin to be recirculated back into the pump. If I could leave the pump
on for half an hour or so I’d be happy just to make sure no surface is left dry.
I’ve noticed there are dirty water submersible pumps, but do you think this would manage to pump such a mucky soup? If it lasted a couple of hour
before exploding I’d be happy 
Any other better ideas to do this? Cheers.
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HowardB
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 11:30 AM |
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exploding and solvents,.... sounds like a poor recipe for soup.... 
Perhaps a LP diesel pump or other fuel pump?
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 11:41 AM |
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well funny you mention that as I've just found this thing which looks promissing, I suppose the shaft seals should survive white spirt?
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tegwin
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 11:54 AM |
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Out of interest what underseal chemicals are you going to use? I need to treat my defender (and tin top) and the choice of different
underseals/wayoils is quite confusing....
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 12:25 PM |
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waxoyl, white spirit and a little bit of engine oil to stop it drying out
I tried quite a few makes over the years as I'm a big fan of properly undersealing cars as it does work really well if done correctly and waxoyl
has been a good one. Make sure your Defender is sound though and dry before doing it. I wash them with either white spirit or thinners before doing it
to drive out the moisture.
For high wear areas black moly grease is actually one of the best as it just doesn't come off but is a right filthy mess to clean up later
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HowardB
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 12:32 PM |
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Strip the vehicle back to the chassis and get it galv dipped lasts much longer
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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tegwin
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 12:47 PM |
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Whippy...
My concern (especially on the tin top) is that , if it remains gooey and sticky every time I try and service it i will get covered in crap.. :p
Although I suppose you can argue that those that do go proper hard just crack and don't protect....
my defender is 12 years old and has never *touch wood* had any welding... id like to keep it that way....
Sadly stripping down to chassis would be prohibitivley expensive...... i'd end up replacing everything...
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Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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mark chandler
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 02:08 PM |
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Garden sprayer, just use the gloop warm and feed the nozzle in as far as you can then when spraying slowly drag it back.
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02GF74
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| posted on 21/4/15 at 06:09 PM |
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Waxoyl. The can can be fitted with a pump with a tube on the end of which is a nozzle.
You may need to drill a few holes for poking thru the nozzle that are then sealed with bungs.
There is an nozzle attachment that sprays backwards, you stick that in a chassis member and the force of the spray pulls it along, .... but i think
this a karcher type thing for use with high pressure water for cleaning.
Rememberr next time you weld the chasis, the stuff inside is likely to catch fire.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 22/4/15 at 11:09 AM |
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the standard Waxyol pump and extension isn't even close to the flow I'm wanting, it's like comparing a small water pistol to a
garden hose. I'm wanting to totally drench this chassis inside for half an hour at least hence I want a proper pump system.
You right about the welding but there should be no need once done.
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