nick205
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 02:10 PM |
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brake caliper rewinding?
Need to replace rear pads on SWMBOs 306, got the wheels off and old pads out before remembering that the pistons need rewinding 
Other than spending £20 odd quid on a rewind tool is there any other tricks/techniques for doing it?
Cheers
Nick
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tegwin
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 02:14 PM |
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I have used a G glamp before to push and rotate it back in.. But trhere is a good chance you will damage the seals...
Go get the right tool for the job... you will have it handy next time you need to do a set of rear pads!
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www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 02:17 PM |
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G clamp and peg spanner off a grinder or else just use a pair of long nose pliers to push and turn. Has always worked faultlessly for me.
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Miks15
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 02:20 PM |
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i did the grinder spanner thing and g clamp trick, worked fine on my rear calipers
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prawnabie
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 02:29 PM |
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Those bendix calipers are common between alot of french cars. ive always used a screwdriver in the two notches and pushed in whilst turning.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 03:49 PM |
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Let the hanbrake cable tension off first
Clamp the hose and open the bleed nipple 1.5 full turns.
Wind and push the piston back important not to force the piston back it should not take much more than hand pressure.
Only after fitting the pads and pumping the pedal a good few times re adjust the cable tension making sure you leave enough free travel for the
self-adjusters to work.
[Edited on 20/2/10 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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indykid
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 04:04 PM |
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if you have a welder, make one. it's not hard and saves £20.
i had to knock one up on thursday while fitting new pads on swmbo's TT. i tried for about 45mins with big circlip pliers and got precisely
nowhere. made the tool in about 20mins including getting the welder out
to make said tool, you require a piece of 3mm+steel strip, 30mm wide. cut a square off the end of the strip and drill a hole in the centre. weld to
the end of a piece of threaded rod. on the piston face of the square plate, weld 2 blobs, about 4-5mm high, diametrically opposite around the centre
hole. cut/file back to leave raised square edged sections 3-4mm wide.
drill a clearance hole in the centre of a 4" length of the strip for the threaded rod and fit a nut to the threaded rod before feeding through
the 4" strip. lock 2 nuts together on the end of the threaded rod or drill and fit a tommy bar.
fit the plate to the piston, then wind the nut up against the 4"strip. turn the threaded bar with the outer most locked nut and be amazed as the
piston rewinds.
as BT said, undo the handbrake cable and crack the bleed nipple. DON'T refit the caliper and pump the pedal before you've reattached the
handbrake cable, otherwise you'll need to take the caliper off again to rewind it enough to move the handbrake lever through its full travel to
get the cable on. don't ask how i know
do this: rewind piston fully, lock up bleed nipple, refit handbrake cable, rewind piston last bit, then fit pads
tom
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smart51
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 04:04 PM |
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I cut a slot in a piece of steel strip so it fitted into the piston grooved and pushed it in with the thumb of one hand whilst turning the bar with
the other. It worked but it was hard work.
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speedyxjs
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| posted on 20/2/10 at 06:03 PM |
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I managed a saxo caliper with just a screwdriver after losening the bleed nipple.
How long can i resist the temptation to drop a V8 in?
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NigeEss
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| posted on 21/2/10 at 12:25 AM |
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I butchered an old large Whitworth socket. Ground bits of to leave two"castlations" and that
with a T bar works fine.
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nick205
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| posted on 21/2/10 at 07:54 PM |
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Top feedback as always 
Nearly went and bought the tool this morning before checking back here 
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