welderman
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 02:06 PM |
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R1 oil problem
After driving the car the other day, the oil light started flashing, its a R1 2003, its still flashing oil level ok, was wondering if the sensor is
broke or its something more ?.
Just to add it was blooming cold weather and maybe sludgy oil !.?.
Off out for a bit, hope to see a reply or two.
Joe
Happy New Year fellow locosters. 
Thank's, Joe 
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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daniel mason
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 03:11 PM |
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i have same problem with my 2001 R1 in my mnr. oil levels are fine, pressure perfect but oil level warning light always flashes. i was told it was one
of the most common faults with the R1.
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welderman
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| posted on 1/1/10 at 07:32 PM |
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so do you think the sensors gone, have you still been driving as it is ?
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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Davey D
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 08:10 PM |
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Do you have a sump baffle fitted? Since fitting one to my 06 R1 my light comes on occasionally, it normally happens if ive been traveling at high
speed/revs on a motorway and then slow down. My thinking why it does it is that the oil pump is pumping faster at high revs, and all the oil pouring
back through the holes in the sump baffle around the sensor pushes the float downmaking the light come on??
Ive got some gauges to fit, and im going to drill/ tap the sump to fit them. When itake the sump off again to fit them im going to remove the baffle
and drill a few holes around where the sensor goes to see if that fixes it
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adithorp
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 10:14 PM |
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Mine comes on regularly. It's worse when the outside temp is low, I've just set off and the revs are high. Once it warms up it's
better but can still come one with constant high revs. Presure remains constant and I've done at least one run of over 100miles with it on and
several track days.
My theory is that it's partly to do with the level dropping as the oil returns to the sump (hence worse with cold oil) and the oil frothing at
revs and the float on the sensor sinking.
Has your baffle plate got the "butterfly" shaped holes? I removed these and rounded the edges and that improved it. How much oil overfill
have you got?
It's come up on hear a few times and I've seem the same thing on bike R1 forums.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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welderman
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 10:45 PM |
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im going to drop the oil out next and see, how much extra oil is it again once its filled to normal level, ive got a baffle plate fitted, i do think
its to do with the cold though as it never did it at Oulton park and i was giving it loads.
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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TimC
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| posted on 2/1/10 at 11:17 PM |
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Joe,
Drop Paul Rogers (progers) at u2u in case he doesn't see the thread. He raced a Phoenix with a 5PW motor so will likely know more than most.
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adithorp
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| posted on 3/1/10 at 01:35 PM |
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The Yamaha oil level according to the manual is, run till warm then switch off and check. In a car instalation recomendations vary.
Least recommended I've seen is the above + 250ml.
More often recommended (and how I run mine) is oil checked with engine hot and running, with the level 3/4 the way up the glass. I then hold revs/blip
hard, and check it drops just to the bottom of the glass.
Mines a 5VY though and I've modded the breather system as well. Mines also mounted at a slight angle unlike yours.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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progers
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| posted on 5/1/10 at 11:10 AM |
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I would guess that the most likely cause is that oil is not draining back into the sump quickly enough, hence the low level light is triggered.
If you have one of the CNC machined baffle plates, open up the drain holes a bit more and if you can create a curve around the edge that promotes oil
to drain downwards.
As for oil level - it should sit 2/3 to full on the sight glass when warm at idle.
Cheers
Paul
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Gergely
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| posted on 5/1/10 at 12:17 PM |
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I am afraid i will not be able to help, but on our 2005 (5VY) engine, the oil level light is always on, we can't get rid of it... (Koso unit)
Weird, as it seems it is not fouling the floating switch, and the oil is to the top of the sight glass at warm idle, so surely enough oil, but even
with just the ignition on, the light is on...
I have heard that others had the same issue with 5VY engines, so not sure if there is a fix... (any ideas?)
So we just check the oil level before each outing to be sure... and check the oil pressure and temperature gauges all the time...
Gergely
Our build pictures
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welderman
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| posted on 5/1/10 at 11:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by progers
I would guess that the most likely cause is that oil is not draining back into the sump quickly enough, hence the low level light is triggered.
If you have one of the CNC machined baffle plates, open up the drain holes a bit more and if you can create a curve around the edge that promotes oil
to drain downwards.
As for oil level - it should sit 2/3 to full on the sight glass when warm at idle.
Cheers
thanks for the info mate, i dropped the oil yesterday, was a little shy on amount so topped it up, light still flashing though, will take it out for a
run once the snows gone.
Or may just take sump off and mahe some holes bigger and may cut butterflies off too ans Ady said
Joe
Paul
Thank's, Joe
I don't stalk people
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/23/viewthread.php?tid=172301
Back on with the Fisher Fury R1
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adithorp
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| posted on 6/1/10 at 10:29 AM |
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The oil level sensor is above the baffle level so opening up the holes just makes sure the oil gets back to the sump and doesn't build up above
it gettin frothed (is that a word?) up by the crank.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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