coozer
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:43 PM |
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Which glue for aluminium?
Got me new TB's this morning, (thanks goes to big_wasa) and after much clarting about realised the inlet manifold isn't sealing against
the head so, its off to the machine shop the morn for a flattening off
While thats going on I've made some blanking plugs for the injector holes in the bodies and am wondering how to ensure they don't fall out
when I'm going along the road?
Anything decent for sticking them in? They have a step so won't fall into the engine but if they vibrate out when I'm miles away I'm
goosed!
Fingers crossed please chaps, interview tomorrow!
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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RichardK
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:45 PM |
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Best of luck for tomorrow mate.
R
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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Steve G
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:46 PM |
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I'd think it would be safer to tap them out and fit a bolt myself. They'll be under vacuum so any glue would have to be very secure in a
fuel vapour environment
[Edited on 17/2/10 by Steve G]
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jambojeef
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:48 PM |
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All the best for tomorrow!
On the subject of glue - Araldite or a similar epoxy is surely your best bet?
Having said that I have had normal araldite peel / snap off bonded alloy parts which I put down to no prepping properly but in an application like
that I would have thought it'd be reet as they say in these parts.
Geoff
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flak monkey
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:50 PM |
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Locitite retaining adhesive, 642 or similar is the best stuff to use.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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dazzx10r
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 09:58 PM |
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sikaflex or tigerseal, same thing, i've used sikaflex to hold the side panels on my MK Midi, strong as owt  .
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stevebubs
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 10:05 PM |
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lumaweld?
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tegwin
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 10:08 PM |
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I would just use araldite rapid.... used it for similar things in the past..
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Would the last person who leaves the country please switch off the lights and close the door!
www.verticalhorizonsmedia.tv
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coozer
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 10:28 PM |
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Thanks David, where can I pick the 642 up?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Dusty
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| posted on 17/2/10 at 11:27 PM |
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And peen over the edges after to give mechanical retention?
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mad4x4
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 07:39 AM |
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I used a two part eppxoy putty that you mix up and then pack in whith yer thumb. Got it in B&Q
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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flak monkey
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 08:03 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Thanks David, where can I pick the 642 up?
Either online or in a good engineering supplies place.
642, 648 or 641 will all do the job. All are suitable in high temp applications and impervious to petrol 
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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FFTS
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 08:20 AM |
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"Pritstick" My 5 yr old daughter uses it for everything and swears by it. You should see her eggcup spaceship.
Chris.
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Davey D
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 08:27 AM |
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Are the TB, and blanking plug both aluminium? i would just tig weld a few tacks around it to hold it in place
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 09:31 AM |
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If you want belt & braces Loctite and pin from the side.
Personally I wouldn't worry so little holds the injectors in place on most engines anyway
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 12:24 PM |
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As a guide - I used the Loctite retainer to hold the wheels on my 5" gauge steam loco. They get soaked in oil, receive a jet of super-heated
steam occasionally, and resist the loads involved in hauling 15 adults.
When I assembled the axles I failed to line up one wheel properly - it was an absolute bar-steward to get it released so that I could reset it, so
make absolutely sure that it's in the right place before letting it go off!
A couple of points worth noting...
* Make sure that the work is 100% grease-free - wipe with meths or similar.
* If you use meths, let it evaporate totally before applying the Loctite, as it seems to accelerate the setting of the stuff (to just a few seconds,
i.e. before you get the component in the right place!
* The parts need to be a fairly loose fit - not rattly, but not tight either. The Loctite needs a small gap to work in (0.002" - 0.003"
). If it's too tight then you just push most of the stuff out during assembly.
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blakep82
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 12:33 PM |
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i guess there'll be a certain vacuum pressure to hold it in too
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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coozer
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| posted on 18/2/10 at 01:34 PM |
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Thanks, David, can I have a picture of your steam engine please? I love them
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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