pewe
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 09:13 PM |
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Ford Puma cambelt help......
Still soldiering on replacing cam-belt on No1 son's newly acquired Puma (3 days and counting). Latest problem is trying to undo the crankshaft
pulley nut.
Have fabricated a pulley locking tool but even that combined with third gear and stamping on the brakes and applying a breaker bar on the 19mm nut
still hasn't resulted in the mother undoing.
Is there something we've missed or is it just a case of a bigger lever e.g. scaffold pole on the end of the breaker bar?
Any advice/help appreciated.
Cheers, Pewe 
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RichardK
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 09:23 PM |
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I dunno, but could it be a left handed thread?
Just a thought 
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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UncleFista
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 09:28 PM |
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Long bar on it and hit the starter ?
Usually works like a charm (assuming it's not in bits) 
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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huskychaser
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 09:46 PM |
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Timing belt
These are tightened to recomended torque, there is no key holding the lower sprocket, i use a Snap on 18v gun / wrench, or an air gun, but all must be
set up correctly before un doing crank nut. Dave. ps un does the normal way.
[Edited on 18/8/10 by huskychaser]
[Edited on 18/8/10 by huskychaser]
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beaver34
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| posted on 18/8/10 at 09:48 PM |
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very tight, make sure you tighten it back up right with a new bolts as they like to unwind!
also i presume its the 1.7 be carefull with the vct if so, ive seen alot of bent valves by not doing it correctly
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bmseven
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| posted on 19/8/10 at 10:13 AM |
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As above VERY IMPORTANT to make sure all the timing marks are alignedTDC etc before undoing as it has no key way it's just done up FT.
Air gun gets em off for me
BMW 7 Resource
Bures Pit anyone?
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adithorp
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| posted on 19/8/10 at 12:47 PM |
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DO NOT DO THIS....
quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
Long bar on it and hit the starter ?
Usually works like a charm (assuming it's not in bits)
There's no key on the shaft for the timing belt sprocket and so you'll bend the valves if done that way.
Usually requires an impact wrench.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 19/8/10 at 08:58 PM |
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SIMPLE SOLUTION
Get a stanley knife, cut the existing belt down the middle so it is only 13mm thick, cut away the outer half. Slide on the new belt so it is half on
the pulleys, cut away the remaining old belt, slide on the new belt so it is fully on the pulleys, refit the covers and go down the pub.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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pewe
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| posted on 19/8/10 at 09:46 PM |
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Looking at fabricating a half-moon insert (cut piece of scaffold tube) with a long bar to stop the pulley rotating.
Then it's out with the breaker bar, impact socket and the rest of the scaffold tube to lever the breaker bar.
Just hope it works!
Cheers, Pewe
Mark ^^ nice idea but Henry puts the cambelt pulley behind a very neat shroud on the crankshaft so it can't be slid off without removing the
auxbelt pulley in front of it!
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 19/8/10 at 10:02 PM |
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Bummer!
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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pewe
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| posted on 20/8/10 at 06:56 PM |
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Success - made up a pulley holding tool by cutting some sections out of a scaffold pipe, welding them onto a piece of thick wall ss tubing offset so
the sections fit inside two of the pulley webs but there's still access to the nut, end of tube onto the lower wishbone with a block of wood
underneath it to cushion it, clamp the holding tool to the pulley with a small G clamp.
19mm impact socket with two extensions supported by axle stand, block of wood to cushion and taped to the stand so socket's positively located,
breaker bar with extra scaffold pole leverage - what was all the fuss about?
Thanks for the help guys - just what I needed when I was about to give up.
Cheers, Pewe
PS anyone want their Puma cambelt changed?
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bmseven
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| posted on 23/8/10 at 02:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
SIMPLE SOLUTION
Get a stanley knife, cut the existing belt down the middle so it is only 13mm thick, cut away the outer half. Slide on the new belt so it is half on
the pulleys, cut away the remaining old belt, slide on the new belt so it is fully on the pulleys, refit the covers and go down the pub.
But you still need to get the bottom pulley off in order to remove the cover
Glad you got it sorted its only a half hour job once you figure out how to get it apart 
[Edited on 23/8/10 by bmseven]
BMW 7 Resource
Bures Pit anyone?
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pewe
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 05:07 PM |
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Final, final post on this in case anyone else is doing theirs.
1) Check cam timing at least twice before deciding it's correct - that means turning the crankshaft gently with a 19mm spanner. As a guide No1
ex & inlet cams should be pointing inwards at 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock respectively at TDC. Timing tools (cam and crankshaft locking
tools from fleabay c.£16) a must.
2) Ensure camcover gasket is firmly stuck to the inside of the cover (Wellseal is great for this) before dropping the cover onto the cambox and/or use
an OE one from Henry. The cheappo version from Eurocarparts is fractionally too small (seemed to fit OK until we ran the engine only to discover it
had been nipped right at the back allowing oil to wee out!). Otherwise now 100% sorted (famous last words).
Took it for a blat on Sunday - what a cracking little car for not much money!
Cheers, Pewe
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 31/8/10 at 05:11 PM |
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i chickened out and sent the wifes into a garage for the belt change.
your right, they are good fun little cars to chuck about the twisty stuff. just lack a bit in a straight line
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