hicost
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:12 PM |
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Help Needed
Hi all, merry xmas to you all.
I am playing with the front end of my car at the moment, in fact I have cut off all the suspension brackets and converted the last of the bushes on
the lower wishbones to rose joints, so that means the complete car is now metal to metal. Anyway I have enclosed a small video of the help I
require.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6vN1cGR6I0
Please find a picture of turntables that look like if the wheel was on them then the distance could be say 30 to 40 mm on either toe in or out, its
the distance when measuring it from nearly centre I am looking for as per the video.
http://www.langs.co.uk/images/SEAGA44.png
Looking forward to any answers.
James
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
 
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interestedparty
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:24 PM |
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If you tell me how far the rod is from the centre of rotation, I can do a quick CAD drawing and measure the distance at whatever degrees you want. (so
can anyone else who has CAD, who needs trigonometry?)
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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hicost
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:31 PM |
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Great
quote:
Originally posted by interestedparty
If you tell me how far the rod is from the centre of rotation, I can do a quick CAD drawing and measure the distance at whatever degrees you want. (so
can anyone else who has CAD, who needs trigonometry?)
Okay I have just measured it now from the centre of the shaft to the out edge of the disc, not quite as it appeared in the video, as I am going to
have to move it in and out for the adjustment.
The answer is 145mm and I need to arrive at 20 degrees toe in and out so a sweep of 40 I guess.
Thanks for the help.
James
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
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steve m
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:35 PM |
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James
I cant help with the original question, but that shock looks a tad stiff for my likeing
Steve
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robocog
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:42 PM |
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http://www.ground-control-store.com/toe-out.htm
Regards
Rob
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interestedparty
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:43 PM |
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Well, the distance in a straight line from a point on the circumference of the circle (of 145mm radius) to a point on the same circumference after 20
degrees of rotation is 50.48mm (approximately)
And from that point to a point 20 degrees in from there is 99.42
You would be ok on the first measurement, because you only need to measure the gap between the witness point in the disc, and the end of the rod where
it is now. Once you move the rod, it's all going to go wrong unless you move it in such a way the the end follows the circumference of the
circle (as opposed to straight in, perpendicular to the chassis centre line.
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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interestedparty
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 02:46 PM |
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What you really need is to cut a piece of curved material like a crescent that is just outside the path of the edge of the disc as it turns, fix it to
the chassis, then we can easily plot the degree points on to it.
You say you've set the toe relative to the rear, but is the rear track the same as the front, or have you allowed for it if it isn't?
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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hicost
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:12 PM |
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Hi
quote:
Originally posted by interestedparty
What you really need is to cut a piece of curved material like a crescent that is just outside the path of the edge of the disc as it turns, fix it to
the chassis, then we can easily plot the degree points on to it.
You say you've set the toe relative to the rear, but is the rear track the same as the front, or have you allowed for it if it isn't?
As regards the track being the same or not, all I have done is used the centre of the tyre as it sits on the car at the back at this point in time. I
am just using it as fixed point. I think I understand what you are thinking, but all I am trying to do at this stage is weld the brackets on and allow
for the largest variable adjustment aroun 5 to 6 degrees of castor. I will get the car squared once complete again.
Thanks for the help so far, I did not think it was going to be that large an amout but hey hoe.
James
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
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robocog
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:14 PM |
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Not sure if it will work could someone please test and confirm :-)
clicky/
Regards
Rob
[Edited on 19/12/10 by robocog]
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interestedparty
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:21 PM |
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I can't open xls files, so can't say. I think Hicost's problem is that he can't put the wheel and tyre on, because of the
caster gauge.
As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!
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hicost
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:24 PM |
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Hello
Hi Rob
Looks useful but I am working with one side of the car at a time at the moment.
I love these tricky ones, I bet the other side is quicker, its been like this for two weeks as I have not had much time to think or sort it out.
James
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
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robocog
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:25 PM |
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Doesn't matter about lack of tyre or wheel as it can be measured off the disk's diameter
Not sure if I can convert it to open office format...will give it a go
Regards
Rob
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robocog
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:29 PM |
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Ref only doing one side at a time...
Measure to the centerline of the car and double the distance results for the 2 yellow boxes
It shouldn't matter
the one side /should/ mirror the other if going in a straight line is intended once done :-p
Regards
Rob
[Edited on 19/12/10 by robocog]
[Edited on 19/12/10 by robocog]
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robocog
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 03:34 PM |
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And for completeness .... chose the version you want :-)
http://www.robocog.dyndns.org/locostbuilders/
Can anyone please confirm the maths is correct ?
Regards
Rob
[Edited on 19/12/10 by robocog]
[Edited on 19/12/10 by robocog]
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hicost
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 04:10 PM |
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Update
Well using the measurements provided I bent a bit of rod in a rough radios around the total 40 degree swoop of the disc, and the suspension brackets
are spaced apart from the bottom ones via a fixed gap spacer and it all seems to look okay and the reading is within the tolerance I had mentally set
to 5 /6 degrees castor. I knew I needed more castor and could not achieve it with the brackets where they were so cutting it all off has proved
correct. If allot of work.
I recommend one of those Sealey gauges, works it all out great.
Thanks all for your help.
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
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hicost
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| posted on 19/12/10 at 04:14 PM |
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Steve
quote:
Originally posted by steve m
James
I cant help with the original question, but that shock looks a tad stiff for my likeing
Steve
Sure does Steve, hey reading your post about computers, I can sort you out another base unit with good size hd and windows XP in exchange to a liitle
modifications to my nose cone. I have quite a few systems in at the moment some less than 24 months old.
James
"I cant do that without accidentally grabbing hold of the work of the divine potter"
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bob
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| posted on 17/1/11 at 08:35 PM |
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Have you sorted this yet James
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