blakep82
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 09:51 PM |
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anyone know bmw 328 engines?
part of my air intake keeps splitting
this part
last time i replaced it with a 2nd hand part, which lasted longer than i expected. its split again, and the engine won't start. its after the
air flow sensor
i've got an idea where i might be able to get one, but see the small diameter connection into it? what is it for, and do i actually need it? its
that connection that keeps splitting, and the hose that connects to it is starting to split too.
wondering if i can somehow blank it off to get it running while i get the parts ordered (and find the money for it... unless anyone has one from a 328
they've stripped to do me another few months/year/2 years again?
can't find a haynes manual for this particular model
edit: tried self amalgam tape, it didn't work, it just keeps tearing off next try will be duct tape, in fact, will try it now, but i need to
sort this properly
[Edited on 7/6/11 by blakep82]
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T66
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 10:22 PM |
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dont demon tweaks do a silicone hose (any type) and a diy t piece kit ?
was going to suggest self amalgamating tape, why not gaffer ontop of it !!
very much doubt gaffer will give up aswell
is the take off not for the inlet manifold pressure ? ie after the air meter. Where does the pipe go too ?
[Edited on 7/6/11 by T66]
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rodgling
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 10:27 PM |
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I think that's the bit that feeds into the ICV, so I guess you do need it. I'd just buy another off Ebay and see how it goes. I may be
replacing the 328 engine in my car shortly (depends if I manage to get a cheap m3 which may become available), in which case you're welcome to
have mine for postage costs. I'll let you know.
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blakep82
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 10:45 PM |
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that pipe sits between the air flow meter and the throttle body. i've wraped it in duct/gaffa tape, but its still not drivable. keeps cutting
out when you stop for junctions etc, and its hard to start too.
can't see where the take off hose goes to. disappears under the throttle body so possibly could be some sort of manifold pressure system, or ICV
(whats the ICV? lol) but i can't tell really.
of course i've done a sterling job wrapping it up, in the dark, but its still exactly the same. air flow meter perhaps? this car does my nut
now...
cheers for that rodgling! don't suppose you're going to be able to get it removed and posted in the next few days though? 
i've looked on ebay, there's 1, in america. gone on partsgateway.co.uk, waiting to see what comes back there. i'm expecting £50
though. and the take off pipe is starting to go too, so will need to swap that for a silicon job i think
[Edited on 7/6/11 by blakep82]
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Chippy
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 10:49 PM |
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ICV = idle control valve. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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norfolkluego
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 10:50 PM |
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ICV - idle control valve, just a guess, symptoms are similar to one I've had before and that was the idle control
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blakep82
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 10:54 PM |
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ah, so how does this idle control valve work? as idle is pretty erratic. put the clutch in for a junction, and it cuts out, start it again and it sits
at 500rpm, where it usually goes to 800rpm or so. is there anything i can spray down the pipe to free it? could it be sticky because its not been
working right for a while?
is it not working right because the pipe's leaking somewhere? is it just a mad coincidence that its starting to go at the same time as the pipe
split?
i did start behaving simi;larly to this last time the hose split, but not as bad
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Chippy
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 11:00 PM |
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I would think it's most likely an air leak, and if you have a split pipe that would tend you support that idea. HTH Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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blakep82
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 11:03 PM |
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fingers crossed thats all it is then. once this is sorted, i want shot of it. lol
looking at series land rover. fix with a hammer type mechanics lol
saying that, with a bit of time to take the hoses etc off and a bit of renewing of tired parts (hoses, clean up that sort of thing), its a good solid
engine. good doner perhaps... lol
[Edited on 7/6/11 by blakep82]
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T66
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| posted on 7/6/11 at 11:17 PM |
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air leak !
more gaffer required
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T66
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| posted on 8/6/11 at 08:34 AM |
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The deal for the £25 pipe is a good one, just looked it up on demon tweaks and a silicone elbow with a revotec hose take off will sort it.
Will come in dearer than the previous offer, the take offs are £18 plus a piece of hose at a £10.
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blakep82
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| posted on 8/6/11 at 09:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JAMSTER
i have one of these pipes spare from a 525 if you want it free you pay postage
i thought the 525 ones were different? 
T66, have you got a link for those parts? might be able to make something up from ebay suppliers. 90 degree bend silicone hose and a take off, with
some hose joiners for the ICV hose,
got answers from partsgateway, one breaker says they only sell new ones, £60 delivered, the other one came back at £21 delivered, but is most likely
2nd hand. think i'll get it for now, and look at making up a silicon hose one in the coming weeks. these parts tend to split quite easy
now....
still want that land rover... don't know if its more reliable or not ha ha
ooh, if this engines taking in more air than it thinks, could that be why it over heats so easy at the moment? running way too lean?
[Edited on 8/6/11 by blakep82]
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jimmyjoebob
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| posted on 8/6/11 at 09:24 AM |
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To see exploded parts diagrams of BMWs take a look at www.realoem.com.
If at first you don't succeed, hide all evidence you ever tried!
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/6/11 at 04:00 PM |
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well, got the new parts fitted, and its a little bit better. i assume this one has the bmw 'adaptive ecu' though, so need to work out how
to get it to learn there's no leaks now...
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Benzine
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| posted on 15/6/11 at 04:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
well, got the new parts fitted, and its a little bit better. i assume this one has the bmw 'adaptive ecu' though, so need to work out how
to get it to learn there's no leaks now...
can you unhook the battery for an hour or so to reset it?
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blakep82
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| posted on 15/6/11 at 05:03 PM |
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yep, just did that, and then started it and let it idle without touch the accelerator or anything for 15 minutes, and its still the same
probably would benefit more from a good drive, but not if its going to break down again lol
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