coyoteboy
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 12:37 AM |
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7.25" triple plate clutches
Anyone used one on something as light as a kit? I'm liking the idea of the tiny diameter and low rotating weight but i've read a few
threads of tin-top drivers who've fitted them and found the car un-driveable. Experiences from those with more car-capability?
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snakebelly
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 05:18 AM |
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We run a 5 1/2" twin plate in our Tiger and both me and my team mate no longer call it the clutch we both refer to it as "The
switch" definately not for road use!
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Wheels244
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 06:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snakebelly
We run a 5 1/2" twin plate in our Tiger and both me and my team mate no longer call it the clutch we both refer to it as "The
switch" definately not for road use! [/quoteI
Ah, I have a twin plate 7.25'' fitted to mine ( yet to hit the road)
I'd heard they are a bit of an on/off switch - having built my MNR with R1 engine
I got used to the characteristics of the bike clutch under my foot - do you think this will
happen with the twin plate clutch on the road ?
Thing is its kicking out 220bhp so don't know if a standard clutch would be up to it.
Also it's all balanced with the lightened flywheel, so don't want to change it unless I
absolutely have to.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 08:52 AM |
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Mmm this is the issue I'm worrying about too. I was thinking I could get used to most things but considering I'll probably have more
torque than I know what to do with in a light car I'm thinking a switch might be a bad idea, basically using the tyres as the clutch.
I've driven BECs and don't see why it would be notably different but I would bow to experience. Shame, as they're as cheap as chips
on the bay.
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v8kid
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 10:50 AM |
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Hi,
I've got a twin plate 7.5" setup on my car and clutch action is very smooth. However it's a car engine/box and I used AP plates in
conjunction with a cheaper basket on a custom made flywheel and an adapted concentric slave cylinder. It took some time to get everything to fit and
every manufacturer blamed the other but now its in it works perfectly. Handles 400/400 bhp/ftlbs up to 7krevs very smoothly.
If you want to do it you get what you pay for - AP is probably the best.
Cheers
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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coozer
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 10:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by v8kid
Hi,
I've got a twin plate 7.5" setup on my car and clutch action is very smooth. However it's a car engine/box and I used AP plates in
conjunction with a cheaper basket on a custom made flywheel and an adapted concentric slave cylinder. It took some time to get everything to fit and
every manufacturer blamed the other but now its in it works perfectly. Handles 400/400 bhp/ftlbs up to 7krevs very smoothly.
If you want to do it you get what you pay for - AP is probably the best.
Cheers
Any links to the parts? Sounds very interesting...
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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v8kid
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| posted on 10/5/12 at 11:16 AM |
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I'll post pics if I stll have any when I get home info is on other PC. From memory it was a superclutch (google them) alloy basket with AP
sintered plates and a superclutch coaxial cylinder - the silver one on their website.
The base of the slave cylinder had to be hand shaped to match the profile of the gearbox end plate and there were clearance issues with the boss of
the AP plates and the fingers on the basket.
I remenber making up a custom spiggot bearing to enable spacing the gearbox further back from the engine (renault to range rover) and having to shave
the pressure fingers with a hss cutteer on an air die drive but the rest is a foggy memory.
But the clearance issues apart the plates are fantastic. They are just metal with no obvious friction material apart from the sintered surface and I
was lead to expect that, as others here have found, that it would be like a switch. Nothing is further from the truth in my particular case. Very
controllable, very positive action with about 0.75" travel from initial engagement to fully engaged.
Another point is the hydraulics. The superclutch cylinder has to be matched to the right master or its all poo - I think I had 2 goes at getting it
right but as I was using the same master cylinders for the brakes I had a range of sizes to swop.
I wish the rest of the car was as good. Poxy gearbox for example keeps on breaking.
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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