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Author: Subject: Rear wheel spin on 4X4 CRV!!
v8kid

posted on 12/11/12 at 12:27 PM Reply With Quote
Rear wheel spin on 4X4 CRV!!

I've got a 12 year old Honda CRV - they are transverse FWD with a transfer box somewhere to the rear wheels. Never driven it offroad before and went into a grass field thinking I'll be OK I've got 4WD and M&S tyres.

Wrong!!

It was the rear wheels that spun with no drive from the front. I was worse off that with FWD drive only 'cos there is no weight on the rear.

So do I get rid off or is there something I can do about it.

Will any other 4X4 be better?

PS it only cost £750 so I aint going to swap it for a rangie am I ?

Cheers!





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JoelP

posted on 12/11/12 at 12:40 PM Reply With Quote
sounds like its a full time 4wd with no centre diff lock.

But wikipedia says it should have a hydraulically operated automatic centre diff lock - so its broken! Probably the clutch is the hoses are all connected and full.

[Edited on 12/11/12 by JoelP]






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zilspeed

posted on 12/11/12 at 01:09 PM Reply With Quote
One slipping wheel out of 4 with no diff locks is enough to keep you stationary.

I'd very much doubt if the centre mechanism does anything other than move between FWD and 4WD. It won't be a lock.

Even if it were, the diffs at either end will still allow a single wheel to spin away all of the go.

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coyoteboy

posted on 12/11/12 at 01:23 PM Reply With Quote
This is the difference between a proper 4x4 and school run 4x4s I'm afraid. A proper 4x4 will have centre diff lock at least, if not centre and rear. The best will lock all 3. Without centre lock in slippy conditions you really just have a 1wd, making the point pretty minimal. With centre lock you still only really have 2wd. With 3 diff locks you have true 4wd. Even my old Celica has limited slip centre and rear diffs, it surprises me that manufacturers can sell a "4x4" that isn't.

I used to be amazed by people saying "my 4x4 got stuck in the snow, it was really bad" as my only experience had been proper 4x4s with locked diffs that would literally walk out of pretty much anything, towing other cars. then I realised not all 4x4s are made equal

[Edited on 12/11/12 by coyoteboy]

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owelly

posted on 12/11/12 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
I got one stuck in mud but it wasn't quite the same as your problem. The one I was trying to drive was six weeks old (in 2007). I set off across a soggy bit of grass but as one wheel started to spin, it applied the brake to that wheel. So another wheel started to lose traction so that brake came on too. This happened to each wheel in fairly quick succession until each wheel would spin about an eigth of a turn then stop. This brough the Honda to a gradual halt with each wheel jerking as the brakes tried to do something. Result......bellypan deep in muddy grass and getting pulled out by SWMBO in the Bongo bus...

So, back to the OP, if your Honda uses the same system and if your brakes and/or ABS are not playing, that could be the problem!





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rf900rush

posted on 12/11/12 at 01:41 PM Reply With Quote
My old 2000 Subaru Outback had a VDU system.
I then the VDC Sytems is design to replace LSD's.
Works well

Went up hills in the snow, just got a bit scary at times.
Thinking, what happens if I start sliding back down

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zilspeed

posted on 12/11/12 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
Strangely enough, a couple of years back when we had the serious snow, my Citroen Synergie was the only thing that could get out of the street. FWD, no diff lock, just compliant suspension that kept both footprints working.

Then again, I did drive the thing correctly rather than responding to wheelsping with more throttle which seems to be the way.

V8kid - I'm more than aware that you would never do this.

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Bare

posted on 12/11/12 at 04:45 PM Reply With Quote
Remove the driveshaft to the rear wheels.. And stay off the Lawn.
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mcerd1

posted on 12/11/12 at 04:56 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
Strangely enough, a couple of years back when we had the serious snow, my Citroen Synergie was the only thing that could get out of the street. FWD, no diff lock, just compliant suspension that kept both footprints working.

Then again, I did drive the thing correctly rather than responding to wheelsping with more throttle which seems to be the way.

+1 for bog std. FWD
I bet my cars have been further off road than 90% of the school run 4x4's in the country

I always reconned that fairly skinny tyres for the weight of the car help a bit too (as long as there is something a bit harder underneath the surface)
my 106 and fiesta were both great in snow/ice and not bad on mud/wet grass either...





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JoelP

posted on 12/11/12 at 05:48 PM Reply With Quote
From wikipedia

quote:


Honda's Real Time 4WD system on the CR-V utilizes a dual hydraulic pump center/rear differential and 4WD transfer case. The dual pump system employs two pumps, one driven by the drive shaft from the transfer case at the front of the vehicle, and the other driven by the rear differential. When there is a pressure difference of greater than 3% between these two pumps, a clutch that connects the front and rear axles begins to engage. The greater the difference in axle speeds, the more torque is applied to the rear. This system would most accurately be called "automatically engaged four wheel drive".





When this system is working, it would only be stopped by one wheel on each axle slipping. This should be more than adequate to get you through a muddy field - in my jeep, 2 wheels turning is enough to accelerate hard up a snowy hill (though in my case it was rwd with a centre LSD).






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avagolen

posted on 12/11/12 at 06:26 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Guys,

Honda have improved the system on the 2012 CRV. It is in 4 wheel drive when you pull away
and then goes to fwd when you are moving. This should help with preventing the initial slipping
of the front wheels being a problem and keeping the muddy fields under control.....

I have a 2006/7 CRV and pull a van, no problems yet in wet fields, but the ABS/VSA does have to work.





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