I predict a Riot
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 09:05 PM |
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Re-threading advice please.
I recently managed to partially strip a thread in an aluminium casting in a really awkward to get at place.
I won't be able to get at it to fit a helicoil without removing the whole engine and gearbox - and I really don't want to do that.
The bolt is one of many that holds the gearbox/bell housing together and also clamps a small fabricated aluminium bracket that holds the speed sensor,
therefore the thread would not be highly stressed but I need to be able to slacken it off and re-tighten to adjust the sensor position.
So my question is - does a product exist such as a mastic or epoxy that I can inject, or cover the M10 bolt with, to create a new thread.
"Honesty is a very expensive gift. Do not expect it from cheap people ". Warren Buffet on Expectation
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daviep
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 09:19 PM |
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The short answer is no....sorry
Only suggestion I can come up with if there any thread left would be to fit a stud and put it in with some loctite 638 retainer.
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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dave r
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 09:36 PM |
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enough metal left to retap a bit bigger ?
may be able to do that without removing ?
I'd love to give my imaginary friend a great big hug,
but this jacket makes it impossible.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 09:40 PM |
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It can probably live without it as structural bell-housing bolt until the engine is out so you could use Araldite or Loctite high strength grade
bearing fit to glue it in.
As an alternative I had a not dissimilar problem with the retaining bolt for the speedo sensor on a Pug gearbox I used one of these
10x Plastic Honda Grille, Wheel Arch Lining, Splashguard &' Bumper Trim Clips | eBay
The intention was to fix it at a late date but surprisingly it worked for 4 + years until the car was crushed.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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I predict a Riot
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 10:12 PM |
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All good advice.
Thanks for your comments.
"Honesty is a very expensive gift. Do not expect it from cheap people ". Warren Buffet on Expectation
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bi22le
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| posted on 18/3/13 at 10:34 PM |
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i would use some no nonsense metal to metal bond that comes in a music gun. the stuff is seems to work but does not set fully solid, very slightly
rubberish.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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inkafone
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| posted on 19/3/13 at 12:00 AM |
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Use a plasterboard fixing, the one with wings. A rawl plug will probably work as well.
[Edited on 19/3/13 by inkafone]
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nick205
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| posted on 19/3/13 at 01:24 AM |
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But and bolt it?
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ashg
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| posted on 19/3/13 at 08:26 AM |
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what you want is JBweld
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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owelly
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| posted on 19/3/13 at 09:10 AM |
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I'd use a stud or 10mm threaded rod. Degrease the styd and hole then bond in with Chemical Metal, Belzona, JB Weld etc. Alternatively, could you
find a Whitworth stud to fit? That would annoy any future folks working on the car...
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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ReMan
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| posted on 19/3/13 at 09:50 AM |
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Could you not use a longer bolt just a thread or 3 longer?
www.plusnine.co.uk
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