strikerguy
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 08:12 AM |
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Xflow rocker shaft removal
I want to check the rocker arms on my xflow (1360 cc Vulcan specs) for wear and correct valve clearance.
Therefore i have to remove the rocker shaft assembly. Is there a special procedure e.g. positioning the camshaft ? I think there are always some
valve springs under tension.
[Edited on 27/8/13 by strikerguy]
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Peteff
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 08:19 AM |
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Nothing special needed just don't disturb the pushrods and the cam will open the valves same after it's replaced.
[Edited on 27/8/13 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 08:46 AM |
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Since you appear to be a complete novice from your question do what us complete novices did long before they invented the internet, get a good manual.
It will be your friend for many years.
It will contain all the correct torque settings, you will need these when you refit the rocker shaft.
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strikerguy
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 09:00 AM |
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Sorry for asking ! Because i am not a complete novice i do own a Haynes owners workshop manual for the Ford Escort 75 to 80 models ! So, the
torque for the rocker shaft bolts is 24 to 30 nm.
On page 31 it says how to remove the rocker shaft, but i was just wondering about the tension caused by the valves being open at the moment you losen
the bolts.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 09:13 AM |
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its not that much tension really, it won't fly across the room or anything 
its been a while since I did one of these (last one was on my mk1 fiesta) if the manual gives you an order to tighten the bolts - then use the
opposite order to loosen them a little at a time (just like a cylinder head)
if the manual doesn't say just loosen/tighten each bolt a little at a time and it'll be fine
(I'd just treat it a bit like a generic cylinder head for the order - loosen fro the outside in, tighten from the middle out...)
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strikerguy
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 09:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
its not that much tension really, it won't fly across the room or anything
its been a while since I did one of these (last one was on my mk1 fiesta) if the manual gives you an order to tighten the bolts - then use the
opposite order to loosen them a little at a time (just like a cylinder head)
if the manual doesn't say just loosen/tighten each bolt a little at a time and it'll be fine
(I'd just treat it a bit like a generic cylinder head for the order - loosen fro the outside in, tighten from the middle out...)
Muchos gracias !
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teegray19
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 11:36 AM |
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just wip the bolts out, do the same as taking a head off, undo one of the outside bolts abit then the opposite bolt then a middle bolt.....
same for putting it back on, you wont be effecting timing by removing the rockers so no worries about the cam!
have fun,
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 07:01 PM |
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Undo the rockers bolts as evenly as possible (i.e. a turn or so on each at a time) and you will have no problems. The open valves will become closed
before you have run out of thread on the studs.
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strikerguy
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 08:10 PM |
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So, that was easy ! No bits flying through the garage...
I have three rocker arms showing a clearly visible and feelable indentation on the spot the valve stem hits the rocker arm. Enough to give a false
reading with the standard feeler gauges i used.
Is there a method to flatten the arms without ruining the curved surface ?
I am more of an angle grinder type of guy, but for some reason i think that's not the correct tool for this job
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teegray19
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 08:37 PM |
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Buy a new old set from fleabay.. there pennies. If your having probs im sure everyone on here including me have a set in the shed!
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avagolen
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| posted on 27/8/13 at 09:29 PM |
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There used to be a tool sold for adjusting rockers.
I just cannot remember its name (I even have on in the garage - somewhere)
It 'clicked' as it was turned and the number of 'clicks' related to a valve clearance.
Different number of clicks for different engines/clearances as the thread used on a
variety of engines have different pitches on the adjusting stud/nut.
Not a perfect clearance as the values where rarely exact, but the tolerances gave room for manoeuvre.
This tool was excellent for 'worn' engines as you started from a zero clearance and
just set to the desired clicks and locked it off with the nut.
This overcame the exact problem you have described with worn rockers.
The only way to refurb yours is to build up the lost metal and re-harden.
OR
Get new rockers as described.
The Answer for everything, but never the last word....
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 28/8/13 at 07:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by strikerguy
I have three rocker arms showing a clearly visible and feelable indentation on the spot the valve stem hits the rocker arm. Enough to give a false
reading with the standard feeler gauges i used.
Is there a method to flatten the arms without ruining the curved surface
Yes you can surface the rocker pad but you need to ensure you have got exactly the same curve as standard after the work. Its best done on an oil
stone.
But its easier to simply cut the feeler gauges so they fit on top of the valve stem, that way you don't get a false reading.
With regards to rockers new genuine Ford ones have been unavailable for years, mid 90's probably. When I sold off all my old x-flow stuff on
e-bay the 3 sets of rockers (all excellent condition) fetched stupid money from a racer.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 28/8/13 at 07:42 AM |
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best just to get replacements if you can, it'll save a lot of hassle
or you could always upgrade to roller rockers (but thats not a cheap option  )
[Edited on 28/8/2013 by mcerd1]
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strikerguy
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| posted on 28/8/13 at 08:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
best just to get replacements if you can, it'll save a lot of hassle
or you could always upgrade to roller rockers (but thats not a cheap option )
[Edited on 28/8/2013 by mcerd1]
Not cheap is the understatement of the day  For me 800 euro at Burton A couple of hundred more and i can fetch a completely rebuild engine
in the UK. And transport ofcourse...
So, thats not an option. Crossflow parts are becoming increasingly rare over here in The Netherlands. Contacted some local Ford classic car guys, but
no results so far.
Spotted this one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Xflow-Rocker-Gear-/321195139270?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac8b8e0c6#ht_102wt_1328
ebay won't let me contact the seller  Only shipping within UK.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 28/8/13 at 08:54 AM |
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what do you think it would cost to post it to you from the UK ?
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strikerguy
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| posted on 28/8/13 at 10:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
what do you think it would cost to post it to you from the UK ?
For parcels up to 30 kg non urgent DHL Economy is 20 pounds.
I suppose the image is showing the upper side of the shaft, because i cannot see the oil channels in the pedestals...
[Edited on 28/8/13 by strikerguy]
[Edited on 28/8/13 by strikerguy]
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