mookaloid
|
| posted on 30/12/14 at 10:26 AM |
|
|
diesel won't start when warm
A friend is having trouble with his Kia rio diesel.
It starts fine when cold but when its warm it just wont fire up. It turns over but wont start.
If left for 20 minutes or so it then starts no problem.
Any ideas chaps?
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
|
|
|
|
|
PorkChop
|
| posted on 30/12/14 at 01:19 PM |
|
|
Does the car cut out when warm too?
Might be barking up the wrong tree, but on Fiat JTDs, all this would point to a duff crank sensor.
|
|
|
coozer
|
| posted on 30/12/14 at 01:26 PM |
|
|
Yep, my dobbie with the 1.9d was like that, went to the shops came out, failed to start.. Turning over but no firing.
Before that going along it would stutter now and again.
Came up on the dash with rpm sensor. Code pointed to intermittent wiring connection from rpm sensor.
£4 later and 5 minutes under the car it was sorted.
Rpm and crank sensor are the same one.
Does the car have a diagnostic plug with stored fault codes?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
|
|
|
mookaloid
|
| posted on 30/12/14 at 01:31 PM |
|
|
Going to check it for codes tomorrow but there is no cel so might not help. I was wondering if a temp sensor somewhere might be sending the wrong
signal?
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
|
|
|
rusty nuts
|
| posted on 30/12/14 at 08:07 PM |
|
|
Had problems with a few modern diesels , bad starting , lack of power, intermittent loss of power etc, fault codes sometimes show a low fuel pressure
fault but not always . Changing the fuel pressure relief valve has cured the problem. Main dealers will more than likely only sell a complete fuel
rail but if you can get the part number off of the fuel rail then a diesel specialist may be able to help. Have used Colchester Diesels in the past
who have been very helpful . We now carry out a leak back test on the injectors and the fuel rail , if the fuel rail is leaking back we replace the
relief valve. The last Kia we did we had to remove the fuel rail to get the part number, changing the valve was a two minute job but it cured the
fault
|
|
|
owelly
|
| posted on 30/12/14 at 09:12 PM |
|
|
Crank or cam sensor? These can fall 'out of tolerance' when warm.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
|
|
|
mookaloid
|
| posted on 31/12/14 at 10:45 AM |
|
|
ok I have some codes:
P1693
P1696
P2010
Edit:
OK I cleared these off and the P2010 seems to have gone but the other 2 keep coming back.
Can anyone shed any light on these please?
Cheers
M
[Edited on 31/12/14 by mookaloid]
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
|
|
|
steve m
|
| posted on 31/12/14 at 11:42 AM |
|
|
a good source of codes is here
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
|
|
|
JC
|
| posted on 31/12/14 at 01:38 PM |
|
|
Google says those codes are related to the keys/immobiliser - some got these codes with a loose battery earth.
linky
|
|
|
.jpg)
