David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/4/21 at 02:54 PM |
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Random question about spraying parts
Over the years I have either cleaned up old parts, or made new ones, and sprayed them using rattle cans. This works fine, except a year later when I
try to use the cans again to spray something new they just don't work. Sometimes they fail just a few weeks later. I have tried soaking the
nozzles in assorted solvents with limited success - usually they work for a little while then choke up again. I always invert the cans to clear the
nozzle when I've finished, but they still die. I have also tried just about all of the dubious remedies you can find on YouTube! (apart from
the clearly stupid/dangerous ones). I now have a shelf-full of old and useless rattle cans. 
The reason for this post is that I have a Badger 250-2 external mix 'airbrush' and a proper airbrush compressor and it seems sensible to
me to use those instead. Note that I call it an 'airbrush' as it isn't really a proper one but it is still much, much better than
most rattle cans. I used previously it to spray a model steam loco and was very pleased with the results. It has a small pot that contains enough
paint for the small jobs I need to do, and it's incredibly easy to clean after I've finished.
My question ("at last!" I hear you cry) is - what paint to use? I normally use Plasticote rattle cans, or similar stuff - what can I buy
in small containers that would be similar? I mostly need to paint stuff black, in gloss or satin.
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Oddified
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| posted on 23/4/21 at 04:21 PM |
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Tins of rustoleum, many colours and with a bit of thinners sprays very well.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 23/4/21 at 06:43 PM |
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I'd forgotten about rustoleum - thanks for that tip!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 23/4/21 at 07:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I'd forgotten about rustoleum - thanks for that tip!
I'm painting my whole car with Rustoleum cans. It's very cost effective and the finish turned out excellent. Plus it can be buffed up
later if needed.
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harmchar
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| posted on 23/4/21 at 10:08 PM |
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I'm in the process of touching up the black satin chassis and suspension parts with Jenolite Directorust. Really impressed with results. Self
levels brilliantly with no brush marks. If it was thinned down it would be great in the airbrush. I might try this weekend with my own airbrush but I
only have cellulose thinners so not sure how it will thin.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NF1W324/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_M74ETV4BB7K88QQA0A7Y
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snapper
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| posted on 24/4/21 at 07:26 AM |
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I think plasticote is your issue, normal rattle cans if you clear the nozzle work for ages, I also keep them in the warm or warm them up in the house
for a day before use.
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 24/4/21 at 04:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by snapper
I think plasticote is your issue, normal rattle cans if you clear the nozzle work for ages, I also keep them in the warm or warm them up in the house
for a day before use.
It's not just plasticote, I have other brands that give up if left for a long time without use. I've tried everything, including sitting
the cans in a bucket of warm water for a while (not too hot!). I've also soaked the nozzles in assorted thinners, but that doesn't really
work. I always clear the nozzles after spraying too.
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 24/4/21 at 06:01 PM |
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Had a smart repir done on my car a while ago. The nice chap turned up, but his aerosols of paint were all stored upside down. He reckons that is teh
way they are supposed to be stored, and stop nozzles clogging. Makes sense, the internal tube to the base is not left immersed in ever-thickening
paint solids.
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paulf
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| posted on 25/4/21 at 08:12 AM |
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I have a theory that modern aerosol cans no longer contain CFCs and use butane or similiar nowadays and it is not as good a propellant gas with
probably a lower vapour presssure and insuficent amount in the can.
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