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BEC Fury Geometry Settings
Neadles - 20/5/13 at 12:34 PM

As I'm new to this type of car I would like some information for a basis to work from so any recommendation for a Fury Blade a base line that will be mostly track orientated on:

Ride height
Cambers
Toes
Not sure if Caster is adjustable?

Thanks

Chris

scutter - 20/5/13 at 12:59 PM

Try reading the thread below "My trip to Procomp"

ATB Dan

MK9R - 20/5/13 at 01:01 PM

Are you running live or Indy rear?? Front setting for race car on the lowered fury setting as below

Toe: 0.5deg toe out
Camber: 2.5-2.8 degs negative
Castor: 5-7 degs

I have live axle so no tweaking available, but tried to get about 0.5 deg toe in and negative camber.
[Edited on 20/5/13 by MK9R]

[Edited on 20/5/13 by MK9R]

adithorp - 20/5/13 at 01:22 PM

Mine is set...

Front. toe-in 1.5mm. camber 2degree negative.
Rear. 2mm toe in. camber -1degree

Caster is ajustable on later chassis. If there is a stack of washers between the rocker pivot and the mountings then it is. Move the washers to the front or rear to adjust. Mine's around 7degree (rocker shaft as far back as it goes).

I've tried more extreme setting but it was too twitchy on the road.

Neadles - 20/5/13 at 01:38 PM

Cheers for the reply's so soon its I forgot about the rear axle its independent on mine! But at least I have a ball park to work with now, just to add to this I am running R888 GG's with 185/205 combi and was thinking of starting at 18psi pressures cold and work from there any advances on that?

I forgot to ask about ride height as well?

[Edited on 20/5/13 by Neadles]

jeffw - 20/5/13 at 02:17 PM

18psi front and 16psi rear would be my starting point...

Neadles - 20/5/13 at 06:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by scutter
Try reading the thread below "My trip to Procomp"

ATB Dan


I have read this thanks Dan, sounds like a cracking idea might have to take a trip there one day but one question,
Jeff if you read this I am no expert in these cars I come from a tintop FF world but I thought toe out on the rear was a bit of a no no and made the cars realy twitchy? and is opposite to Adi's setting do we have a typo or just the same cars running completly different toe settings??

MK9R - 20/5/13 at 06:50 PM

I wouldn't run toe out at the rear

Neadles - 20/5/13 at 09:55 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MK9R
I wouldn't run toe out at the rear


That was my question as the thread from Jeff after his Procomp visit is Toe out rear so was just wondering if this was true?

adithorp - 20/5/13 at 10:19 PM

Jeff has a live axle, so the slight toe out is just the way the axle is. Very few are completely true/straight.

MK9R - 20/5/13 at 10:21 PM

quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Jeff has a live axle, so the slight toe out is just the way the axle is. Very few are completely true/straight.


Tell me about it, trying to set a live axle, been there, broken it!

EX01 - 21/5/13 at 07:29 AM

All the setup guides I read say +toe at the rear to calm it down? and - at the front to aid turn in?
There are a few great setup flow charts knocking around on search engines, work a charm if you follow them (at work dont have the book marks here sorry).

jeffw - 21/5/13 at 07:51 AM

The toe out (minor toe out) is the way the live axle sits at the moment. There is little or no point in trying to rid it of 1.2mm of toe out using a welding torch. If it was IRS you would set it to toe in slightly but on a Live Axle there is little point given the small amount of toe involved.

[Edited on 21/5/13 by jeffw]

Sam_68 - 21/5/13 at 12:02 PM

As I tried to explain on the other thread, you also have to appreciate why rear toe out makes a car twitchy:

First and foremost, toe (whether positive or negative) is there simply to take the 'slack' out of the system and stop the wheels wobbling about unpredictably like a dodgy caster on a shopping trolley.

Under acceleration, the thrust from the tyres will tend to cause a RWD IRS to try to toe in... so if it's been set to toe out under no thrust, you'll potentially end up with rear wheels that make a transition from toe out, via the 'dead' neutral point, to toe in, unpredictably as you apply the throttle.

By contrast, if it's been set to toe in under no thrust, the tyre thrust will just make it toe in some more, which is a stable condition.

With a live axle, there's a bloody great steel tube linking one hub to the other, meaning that the toe won't change much (only as much as the play in the hub bearings and flex of the axle tubes allow), so it's much less of a big deal.

It's still not good, and I'm not entirely sure I'd agree with Jeff - if you've thrown big money at a high spec., high power engine installation, the effort required to get the suspension geometry as perfect as you can is a relatively cheap improvement in comparison - but it's relatively much less of an issue and it's not going to feel like it's trying to kill you at every corner like a toe-out IRS system will, so it's fair enough to accord it a fairly low priority.

Neadles - 21/5/13 at 06:34 PM

I thank you all for your comments and discussions, I am pretty happy with suspension theory and now have a ball park to work with as I have spoke to Steve at Fisher as well so from here on its a learning curve again