The insulated ones are typically marked with the appropriate colour for the crimp size and have separate sections of the die for the actual crimp and to form the plastic sleeve around the cable insulation for strain relief. Like this:
A word of warning to anyone looking for a ratchet type crimp tool - DON'T buy this piece of cr8p from Screwfix....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/r
atchet-crimping-tool-1-5-10mm/49092?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=631623
...it's appallingly bad. It simply mashes the crimp breaking the plastic sheath and failing to grip the wire.
While we're at it their crimps are a pile of poo as well, really badly made and the plastic sheath is so hard there's no way it will ever
crimp properly....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/crimp-ebb-insulated-blue-butt-pack-of-100/714
80
Have you tried it with decent crimps? It looks identical to mine, which works fine on proper crimps.
I took the whole lot back and got a refund. I made do with my old plier type crimp tool and some terminals from Halfords.
That tool is designed for uninsulated crimps (which Screwfix sell), so it's not surprising that it doesn't work well with insulated ones.
The insulated ones are typically marked with the appropriate colour for the crimp size and have separate sections of the die for the actual crimp and
to form the plastic sleeve around the cable insulation for strain relief. Like this:
What he said^^^^^^
You needed these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-ratchet-crimping-tool/70036?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area1&_requestid=709601
What are the general view of the red/blue/yellow insulated crimps as IMO they are the a pile of crap.. and are currently banned from my car...
I would say it depends on the quality. I had some from the local 'Poundland' and the plastic was very brittle so crumbled and the metal grippy bit was very short and the entire assemby was very thin and feeble. But that's no more than I was expecting from cheap gear. I use the ones that have a metal inner to the sheath grip (!!!) and these are more expensive, but always work. I always use a good quality crimping tool.
quote:
Originally posted by AntonUK
What are the general view of the red/blue/yellow insulated crimps as IMO they are the a pile of crap.. and are currently banned from my car...
quote:
Originally posted by AntonUK
What are the general view of the red/blue/yellow insulated crimps as IMO they are the a pile of crap.. and are currently banned from my car...
quote:
Originally posted by AntonUK
What are the general view of the red/blue/yellow insulated crimps as IMO they are the a pile of crap.. and are currently banned from my car...
I know I'll be flamed but I like to use uninsulated crimps over tinned wire ends that I then crimp and heat with my little gas iron to solder the
joints. I then use either a slip cover or some decent heat shrink. I've used this method for all the wiring I've done and never had a
"brittle failure". I'm kind of obsessive about securing wiring though to stop it flapping about.
I never trust wires that have been crimped with the coloured connectors especially larger current +Ves
JC
Ah, yes. The old 'never solder' debate. If you're wiring an aeroplane that provides high frequency vibrations for thousands of hours, don't solder ends on the cable. The solder 'wicks' up the cable with the aid of capilliary action, and turns your once pliable cable into a solid one, which can work harden and snap. IMHO, there's nothing wrong with a touch of solder to confirm the joint. None of my cars, or the powerstation where I work, have ever crash-landed due to failed wiring looms.
Very well put owelly!
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
That tool is designed for uninsulated crimps (which Screwfix sell), so it's not surprising that it doesn't work well with insulated ones.
The insulated ones are typically marked with the appropriate colour for the crimp size and have separate sections of the die for the actual crimp and to form the plastic sleeve around the cable insulation for strain relief. Like this:
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
It may well be, but the Screwfix catalogue recommends it for use with their insulated terminals. As per the above link to their crimp terminals it is also recommended by order code for use with the terminals.
I think you've proved my point Mike...
I don't have a calibrated crimper or suitable test equipment therefore resort to the luddite soldering iron.
JC
Mike RJ
Interesting what you say....
I used to work for a short while at a place that made railway signalling equipment, in Plymouth.
Wouldn't be the same place would it?
And yes we had to do "first offs" of test crimps (insulated type as you say) before wiring the rest of the enclosure..
I knew of a Mike R J who started his apprenticeship there in the early 90's was that you?
Steve Martin.
im with owelly on this one .....
but i do use heashrink insulated termials at work , on the fuseboard area we can use just the insulated terminals , and have both sets of pliers to do
the job , we also use deutch connectors , duraseal and DIN type plugs in all our looms ...
most pins in the fancy plugs are uninsulated since the plug does the insulation work ......
quote:
Originally posted by SeaBass
I think you've proved my point Mike...
I don't have a calibrated crimper or suitable test equipment therefore resort to the luddite soldering iron.
JC
We use a lot of insulated crimps at work replacing soldering, especially when working in vehicles for after market installs. Working with soldering
irons around carpets and plastic trim is crazy now.
There is a simple pull test we do at work to check crimps and is based on the following picture or something very similar.
Pull test
search for crimps pull test in google.
We will crimp up a particular SWG wire with the correct size crimps putting a ring on each end. Suspend one ring from a fastener in the wall and
suspend the minimum weight on the other, you could also use a scale such as luggage scale etc. and pull on the items yourself to either pass the
minimum pull force or see what point they break away.
So sending them away for calibration is not always required if you do simple tests and keep records.
And do not buy cheap crimps if the plastic insulation starts to break away bin the lot and buy better.
Molex crimps are good.
Adrian
[Edited on 24-4-12 by AdrianH]
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
It may well be, but the Screwfix catalogue recommends it for use with their insulated terminals. As per the above link to their crimp terminals it is also recommended by order code for use with the terminals.
No it does not, the web site simply shows "recommended products" underneath but it certainly doesn't say they are recommend for use with that crimping tool. It just like the "Other customers bought these at the same time" links on Amazon showing related but not necessarily compatible products.
As for insulated crimps being rubbish, I suggest no-one ever uses a train again as the signalling relay racks we constructed at the place I used to work are full of them. Every crimp tool was regularly calibrated, and a test crimp would be made at regular intervals subjected to a pull test to ensure the crimp was made correctly. Properly done they are extremely reliable. FWIW no wires were ever soldered to terminals in these installations, they were always crimped.
I would say that Screw fix have it wrong you should be pointed to this product.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-ratchet-crimping-tool/70036
It says it is for insulated crimps red, blue and yellow. Although still wrong as it later says non insulated terminals.
Adrian
[Edited on 24-4-12 by AdrianH]
quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
I would say that Screw fix have it wrong you should be pointed to this product.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-ratchet-crimping-tool/70036
It says it is for insulated crimps red, blue and yellow. Although still wrong as it later says non insulated terminals.
Adrian
[Edited on 24-4-12 by AdrianH]