I'm having trouble bleeding the last bits of air out of the wife's honda civic's brakes following a full overhaul.
It's about time I invested in a proper bleed kit rather than the old jar and bit of pipe technique, especially as I have the ginetta to do too
soon.
What are your recommendations on a more pro/useful but if kit?
Tempted ATM by a mittvac type
http://bit.ly/1a1Df63
Or one of these that uses my compressor?
http://bit.ly/PPqQDw
my brother had the first one, i got the second one, my brother now has the second one.
I use one of these: Pela 6000 Oil Fluid Extractor Vacuum Pump Extraction Boat Car 6ltr Free Gloves. Never fails.
Waste of time they can draw more air into the system as master cylinder seals are not designed to seal against vacuum.
Top down low pressure bleeding is the best way, a cheap and cheerful Eezibleed is fine provided you have a normal screw fitting cap on the reservoir.
Also even when using any kind of bleeding tool it is essential to give the pedal a couple of pumps to ensure the master cylinder is properly primed.
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Waste of time they can draw more air into the system as master cylinder seals are not designed to seal against vacuum.
Top down low pressure bleeding is the best way, a cheap and cheerful Eezibleed is fine provided you have a normal screw fitting cap on the reservoir.
Also even when using any kind of bleeding tool it is essential to give the pedal a couple of pumps to ensure the master cylinder is properly primed.
A friend of mine, a mechanic of close on fifty years experience, claims to use a powered screen-wash bottle, to reverse bleed the brakes from the
bleed nipple at each wheel. When the pump gives up, he gets another. It is larger trucks that he works on, so that may make a difference. I am not
familiar with these vehicles, so I cannot comment any further on this procedure. I have yet to try it out myself. However, he started his trade when
everything was repairable, rather than replaceable, so I guess he does know a thing or two.
Perhaps it might be worth a try, as long as someone is carefully watching out for the master cylinder overflowing.
Regards,
Albert
I had all sorts of trouble with my eezibleed to start with, with fluid just being squirted everywhere and nothing actually sealing right. Then I realised it only needs pressure slightly above atmospheric to work, and it turned into a really easy job. I've yet to do a clutch though, only because my car clutch bleed nipple won't budge!!
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I had all sorts of trouble with my eezibleed to start with, with fluid just being squirted everywhere and nothing actually sealing right. Then I realised it only needs pressure slightly above atmospheric to work, and it turned into a really easy job. !
I bought a vacuum type as I had difficulty with my old vectra brakes, worked fine, the disadvantage I had is that they draw air in from around the thread on the bleed nipple screw in the form of very fine bubbles so you have to decide when they they are important bubbles or not!
quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
I bought a vacuum type as I had difficulty with my old vectra brakes, worked fine, the disadvantage I had is that they draw air in from around the thread on the bleed nipple screw in the form of very fine bubbles so you have to decide when they they are important bubbles or not!
quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
I bought a vacuum type as I had difficulty with my old vectra brakes, worked fine, the disadvantage I had is that they draw air in from around the thread on the bleed nipple screw in the form of very fine bubbles so you have to decide when they they are important bubbles or not!
I have a large glass syringe of about 100ml capacity and connect that to the bleed nipple and use it to draw fluid through when changing brake
fluid.Sometimes it does the job ok on its own but it does tend to draw air past the nipple threads as mentioned, if there is a stubborn air lock I
usually go back to the tube and bottle method, a bit of rubber tube with a bolt in the end and a knife cut in the side works well as a non return
valve.
Paul
Also remember if the car has abs you should have the engine running whilst bleeding the brakes...
Reverse bleed :-) Buy a cheap disposable 2 ounce plastic syringe (veterinary supply is a good start) Fill it full of fresh fluid Attach it to a
caliper nipple then gently but forcefully.. slowly inject it's contents.
Repeat for all Bleed nipples in correct sequence. ..does take a bit of time as the fluid goes in sloowly.
This Works!! and requires no foolish hardware purchase.