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Thrust or spigot bearing .... HELP
pewe - 28/4/15 at 07:40 PM

Clutching at straws really (pun intended).
Replaced the clutch complete for the second time in less than a year (long story - don't ask).
Clutch kit from a reputable supplier came with an after-market thrust bearing.
General consensus is to only use genuine Mazda ones and now I know why.
After only about 1000 miles and no serious abuse the bearing (could be the spigot but diff. to tell) is now squealing on take-up.
So is there any way at all of lubing or replacing the thrust without taking the whole fricking lot out again?
Answers on a postcard....
Cheers, Pewe10


adithorp - 28/4/15 at 08:05 PM

Short answer... No... Sorry.


perksy - 28/4/15 at 08:13 PM

As above

Afraid its coming out


Suppose the one bit of good news is is it usually gets quicker the more times you have to do it ?


britishtrident - 28/4/15 at 08:42 PM

Squeal on take up points to contaminated or warped driven plate rather than the thrust or a noisey spigot. The only other thing that might cause is if the spigot bush had been left out completely.


19sac65 - 29/4/15 at 03:20 AM

As above
Spigot more likely to make a noise when in gear and stationary as the engine is spinning but the shaft is still
Loose boss on the clutch plate,loose damper springs ( does it sound like a tambourine when shook) and worn splines will cause high pitch vibration
Was it a recon clutch ?


pewe - 29/4/15 at 08:01 AM

Thanks guys, pretty much confirmed what I thought
Whole assembly was new ex-US via UK supplier who came highly recommended- think we'll be having words!
One suggestion has been to try a bit of Q20 or similar through the lever aperture onto the thrust brg. though presumably that's going to affect any warranty claim?
Cheers, Pewe10


adithorp - 29/4/15 at 09:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by pewe
One suggestion has been to try a bit of Q20 or similar through the lever aperture onto the thrust brg. though presumably that's going to affect any warranty claim?
Cheers, Pewe10


I wouldn't (much as I like Q20). If it gets on the plate/cover/flywheel it'll cause issues.


pewe - 29/4/15 at 09:59 AM

Adithorp, yes I know but as above I'm clutching at straws.
The thought of taking it out for the third time on the drive fills me with huge under-whelming (if that makes sense).
Bet I'll set my own PB doing it though....
Specialist down in South Wales will do it for not a lot of money but distance/fuel cost could screw that one.

Now been referred to the US branch of the supplying company as their UK distributor no longer supplies.
Not being pessimistic but this could get messy.....

Watch this space.
Cheers, Pewe10


pewe - 29/4/15 at 03:11 PM

So their US techie is asking if the clutch adjustments were altered.
To which the answer as far as I'm concerned is "NO".
He's saying that if the adjustment was out it might have put extra stress on the bearing from the get-go - possible or not??
Cheers, Pewe10

[Edited on 29/4/15 by pewe]


theconrodkid - 29/4/15 at 05:51 PM

self adjusting so no is the answer to that one,looks like trying to wiggle out of it.


pewe - 29/4/15 at 09:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by theconrodkid
self adjusting so no is the answer to that one,looks like trying to wiggle out of it.


Thanks.
Strong reply based on your comments, those from the other source we were discussing and my own.
Reply awaited..
Cheers, Pewe10


pewe - 8/6/15 at 10:34 AM

Finally bit the bullet (fine weather last week helped) and took the box out.
Transpires it was the spigot bearing supplied with the kit.
Turning it in the flywheel by hand it was dog rough (ruff?).
Rather than take the flywheel off I tried the "fill it full of grease and hammer a drift through the centre of the spigot" method.
Totally failed to remove it but once it was out the grease had lubricated the bearing so now it's smooth - doubt the supplier's going to believe the bearing was at fault.
Replaced both spigot and thrust bearings with OE Mazda items.
Anywho change is now nice and quiet plus the turret oil looks less like a thick grey porridge (I only changed that a couple of years ago).
BTW slide-pins (spare gearbox bolts with the heads chopped off and slotted for removal) plus ensuring the engine and gearbox angles both lined up (smart phone Clinometer app.) meant the box went back in single-handed like a dream...
Cheers, Pewe10