Triton
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| posted on 12/3/08 at 10:33 PM |
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cracking car matey...
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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chunkytfg
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| posted on 13/3/08 at 04:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
FJ wouldn't say but i'm now with Adrian Flux for £61 for the year with no time limit on finishing the build...
James
Cheers James.
Cracking car by the way
I can only hope for half the talent you have when i start my build
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cloudy
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| posted on 16/3/08 at 08:33 PM |
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I'm having some trouble with my pedal box, when the pedal is depressed the arrangement pivots as shown in the pic, eventually ending up at about
45 degrees and impeding further travel!
Any ideas on this one? I know I need to move the pivots closer together, but I don't think this will solve it...
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nitram38
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| posted on 16/3/08 at 08:35 PM |
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Any clearer and closer photos?
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Kaspa
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 02:20 AM |
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Cloudy, your going to have to mount your pedal box to a substantial surface, either the floor plate, or to full width brackets, just picture in your
mind how much force the brake pedal in particular will get , that will give you a good idea how strong the mounts need to be
cheers Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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cloudy
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 08:04 AM |
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If you look closely you can see it's mounted with a G clamp to a temporary chassis rail! I'm a little offended you'd think I'd
leave it like that! 
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Alan B
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| posted on 17/3/08 at 11:29 AM |
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Cloudy, I'm pretty sure Kaspa assumes you'll remove the clamp (as we all would). However, there is no other clue as to how the pedals will
be mounted..presonally I am pretty sure you will do something substantial, but without a being mind readers we have a duty in the interests of safety
to point out things like that.
As Martin points out a better picture would help too.
Please don't take offence....it's all meant as constructive observation (not even critisism, as we don't know your plan)
Looking really nice BTW
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Lippoman
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 08:10 AM |
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The pivoting is in the balance bar? Are the MCs moving smoothly?
More detailed pics showing the situation when it "jams" (preferrably from the top and side) would make troubleshooting easier, could be
geometry issues...
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cloudy
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 08:28 AM |
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What i'll do is wait till it's all pressurised and then get pics if it's still doing it....
James
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COREdevelopments
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| posted on 18/3/08 at 08:10 PM |
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james/cloudy what pedal box you using? i have a luego/obp one. and mine used to jam up when depressed. turned out it was the hole where the balance
bar pivots had distorted during welding. it was easy to fix just reamed it out. pedal now travels all the way smoothly. (please ignore me if this is
not the case)
hope this helps
atb
rob
[Edited on 18/3/08 by COREdevelopments]
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cloudy
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| posted on 20/3/08 at 11:06 PM |
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It's better now, it doesn't jam at least - will add brake fluid tomorrow...
James
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Kaspa
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| posted on 21/3/08 at 07:33 AM |
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sorry bloke i wasnt questioning your engineering i just didnt look at the big picture or totaly understand your question, i to have an OBP floor
mounted pedal box and it was sticking as well when first fitted, but a light ream with some emmry paper and some lube in the housing and bobs your
uncle, works extreemly well now
every thing else is looking good, you should be proud of yourself
Kaspa
understeer= when you hit the wall front first
oversteer=when you hit the wall back first
HP= how fast you hit the wall
Torque= how far the wall moves when you hit it
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cloudy
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| posted on 23/3/08 at 11:39 PM |
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A disappointing day - I managed to get it onto the drive under it's own power but I'm having engine troubles - it's only running on
1 or 2 cylinders - whilst you can pull off the engine just dies a few seconds later. Suspect fuelling issues.
Here's the vid anyway:
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/mk2/video/firstdrive6.wmv
[Edited on 24/3/08 by cloudy]
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neilj37
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| posted on 24/3/08 at 07:53 AM |
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Really like the look of your car but you need to re-think the brakes. Using your feet to stop the car al-la Fred Flinstone his going to hurt after a
while k 
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nitram38
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| posted on 24/3/08 at 08:51 AM |
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Your car is really cool 
You seem to have a lot simpler chassis than mine and it appears to be more compact.
Maybe I shouldn't have looked at the atom so hard!
Seeing your car move has made me want to speed up a bit, but hopefully I will catch up as you have still got to dis-asemble it for painting.
Mine is in pieces so that I can finish the chassis and paint it.
Hopefully, this will be the last assembly before driving it! 
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cloudy
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| posted on 24/3/08 at 10:27 AM |
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A lot of it is temporary to be able to test it, I've got to take a lot off now it works!
I'm sure you'll catch me up
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cloudy
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| posted on 24/3/08 at 03:20 PM |
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Twas the plugs causing the problem - I only had spark on one plug! Renewed all 4 as it needed doing anyway and she purrs again 
James
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cloudy
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| posted on 24/3/08 at 06:39 PM |
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Right, now we are talking:
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/mk2/video/seconddrive.wmv
Snapped one of the cut and shut driveshafts but made a quick repair...
James
[Edited on 24/3/08 by cloudy]
[Edited on 24/3/08 by cloudy]
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quinnj3
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| posted on 25/3/08 at 09:49 AM |
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nice.
its bound to feel good when you get to that stage.
my aim is to build my own locost wether it takes me a week or 10 years to get started, i'm sure i will sometime
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COREdevelopments
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| posted on 26/3/08 at 01:02 AM |
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nice, bet you are so tempted to just go for a blast down the road!!! whats with the earmuffs? dont you wanna hear it roar?! she sounds nuts.
good work i really like it.
Rob
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Fred W B
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| posted on 26/3/08 at 09:08 AM |
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Looking great!
You guys who build cars in single garages are heroes - don't know if I could keep up my enthusiasm in those conditions
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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cloudy
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 08:42 PM |
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I need a some advice on this one...
Trying to work out how to sort my cooling system. The bike stock has one water rad about 400mm x 350mm and one oil cooler about half this.
I like to keep things symetrical so was thinking about putting them as follows, but I don't like the idea of one having a fan and one not...
Any other good idea's where they could go? The water exits top left of engine and enters bottom left, the oil enters and leaves at the bottom of
the front under the exhausts...
I don't want to mount it at the front of the car due to the extra weight of coolant it would require...
Also bear in mind I'm planning to have the air intake between the seats atom stylee
[Edited on 7/4/08 by cloudy]
[Edited on 7/4/08 by cloudy]
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nitram38
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| posted on 7/4/08 at 08:52 PM |
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The atom has a single rad at the front of the car as per the picture.
My R1 oil cooler is built onto the engine and pipes into the standard rad. Can't you come up with a similar set up?
Thinkautomotive do oil coolers that plumb into your water system.
 
Description
My rad on my front subframe:
 
front subframe
[Edited on 7/4/2008 by nitram38]
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Doug68
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| posted on 8/4/08 at 12:44 AM |
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The later GSXR-1100 lumps were water - oil cooled. The early ones were air - oil cooled.
If I were to replace the air to oil heat exchanger I with a water to oil exchanger then I'd want to really make sure it has sufficient cooling
capacity as these engines do rely on the oil for cooling. Particularly in a car where the engine is gong to get worked hard than it would in the
bike.
I like where the rads are positioned now, I'd build entry and exit ducts to protect them from road crap and make them work better though.
Doug. 1TG
Sports Car Builders WA
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neilj37
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| posted on 8/4/08 at 06:50 AM |
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Personally I think mounting them to the side spoils the clean lines of the car.
I would either mount it at the front of the car as per the atom setup or somewhere around the back within the frame work and duct the air in.
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