locost750mc
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:31 PM |
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Repost down below :O
[Edited on 26/12/10 by locost750mc]
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locost750mc
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:31 PM |
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Looks brill! And the track looks like the ever famous cadwell park.
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Marky911
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:31 PM |
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Cadwell Park, Lincolnshire. Awesome track. My favourite although, I'm yet to do Oulton Park, which my mates say will be my new favourite.
It's a £400 day out though from where I live. Petrol in towcar + racecar, hotel the night before and the trackday itself to pay for. Not goo
when you do a few laps and head home by lunchtime.
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Marky911
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by locost750mc
Looks brill! And the track looks like the ever famous cadwell park.
Yeah Cadwell of course! Was posting while you did. 
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Marky911
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gavin174
what seat you using..
you are sitting very high..
and looks like you bloking the air intake to the engine
Ha! Yeah I know.
I'm 6ft 1inch, so that's where I stick out to. Seat is mounted right on the floor beams and quite far forward so I can slide down into it
as low as possible. Using the original Global GT seat (has it embroided in), much like a kart seat.
Not sure If I'll block the intake. Maybe partially, obviously, but seems OK.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:40 PM |
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Cadwell, but I bet that's been said already! (on my phone in hotel with not much signal!)
Hi mark, lots of Info here especially if you ask tje right sort of questions!
As for your mates Oulton recommendation, they are right! 
Drop me a line If you do go there, I work 1 mile away making cf for race bikes and race cars 
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Marky911
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 07:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Steve Hignett
Cadwell, but I bet that's been said already! (on my phone in hotel with not much signal!)
Hi mark, lots of Info here especially if you ask tje right sort of questions!
As for your mates Oulton recommendation, they are right!
Drop me a line If you do go there, I work 1 mile away making cf for race bikes and race cars
Will do Steve. My mates race in the LMA (arrowpak now) eurosaloons and love that track. I usually do trackdays with them until March but, after that
they're racing all year.
PS. I like what you're building there, built one myself, many moons ago.
Right, off to watch Topgear. Yeah it's rubbish but, it's better than no car programs being on.
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daviep
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| posted on 26/12/10 at 11:29 PM |
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With regard to cooling, our first mod was to panel in around the rad to ensure all airflow went through the rad. I'm sure this has probably
already been done if the car has been raced previously.
The main problem was getting the cooling system bled properly, we used to find that jacking the front of the car up would help with bleeding, we also
used to run the bike coolant pump in addition to the electric pump.
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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daniel mason
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| posted on 27/12/10 at 12:05 PM |
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does one of the injected R1's not need a seperate cooling modification? i am sure i heard of a few problems from the R1 engined boys on here!
also there is a few guys on here with the global GT.
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Stuart_B
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| posted on 27/12/10 at 05:21 PM |
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hi mark and welcome, the global gt are nice cars, i do like the red.
cheers
stuart
black mk indy, 1.6pinto on cbr600 bike carb's.
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Marky911
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| posted on 27/12/10 at 10:49 PM |
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Evening chaps, been working all day.
Hi Stuart. Thanks, the red does look OK but the car is supposed to be getting a new paint-scheme over the winter. Looking doubtful now though due to
work and a house project.
Daniel, I'm actually looking at some sort of mod for the cooling system. I'm hoping to add some sort of small rad (even a heater matrix or
something?) in one of the side ducts, to try and cool the water a bit before it gets to the booster pump, as these can only take temps upto 120deg, so
any cooling issues usually result in a knackered pump. At £120 a pop it gets frustrating.
Davie, yeah they are fiddly to bleed. After filling the coolant system I usually just run the engine and booster pump for a few minutes with the
header tank cap off. I then add the cap before it gets too hot, then after another few minutes I open the bleed screw (M6 bolt) on the front of the
rad, incase there's any air in there. Seems OK like this.
I don't suppose you remember what sort of chain tension you were running on the Global you helped with, do you? I'm running about 20-25mm
of up and down play at the slackest point of the chain. That's similar to a bike but a bikes swingarm drops and rises whereas my axle
doesn't, so I'm thinking I can go a bit tighter?
Also, what's the best way to find any Global lads on here? a simple search?
I also can't see a readers cars sort of thread but, I could be missing the blatantly obvious?
Cheers lads.
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Steve Hignett
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| posted on 28/12/10 at 11:42 AM |
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The search function isn't this sites forte, doubt you'd find members with globals that easily...
Also, not sure who mentioned above that there were a few on here, I only know of one other that is built/being worked on, and that's already
been mentioned; eddie99. But hes not on here as much nowadays as hes started college or maybe uni...
There have been plenty of R1's used in a variety of cars though, and lots on here.
All I can suggest is:
If you have a question, phrase the title well, include all info for a good answer, continue asking on same thread if similar topics need clarification
and start a new thread if you have new questions!
Understand peoples opinions on here, which doesnt mean you have to apply their suggestions or even agree, just understanding Is agood start and after
a fewonths you'll realise who's comments are worthy and who's are worth ignoring!
ATB
Steve
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Marky911
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| posted on 29/12/10 at 09:23 AM |
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Hi Steve,
Yeah, I hear what you're saying. I try to be an active, helpful member on any forums I join. I usually start off as a pestering newby but take
on board all I hear and usually end up helping others in return.
I'll always do a search first and if that doesn't help then, yes, I'll post nice and clearly.
One thing I don't do is troll or get into bickering. If I've got nothing helpful or friendly to say, I'll say nothing.
Cheers for that. I'm glad I've found this place. I've got loads of old threads to sift through too so it's helping my days at
work fly by! Whilst doing a search I even stumbled across a pic of my car, before I bought it. Coincidence.
Cheers!
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eddie99
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| posted on 29/12/10 at 03:34 PM |
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Looks like a good car, as above, i've got the carbed r1 in mine with some gearbox problems at the mo. Currently on holiday but at uni so not on
the site as much as i want to be. If you have any questions u2u me and i tend to check on here once a day for messages
Unfortunately i've also not had the car long but plan on racing it this year in 750mc...
Good luck!
Ed
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Marky911
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| posted on 29/12/10 at 04:37 PM |
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Ah, Eddie99, just the man! Thanks for popping on and saying hello. I'm guessing we're both on a steepish learning curve with these then.
Me, more so, I'd imagine! coming from bikes and road cars.
Yours looks very well turned out.
There's quite a bit I want to do to mine before spring.
I'll deffo send you a message at some point with any queries you may know the answers to. Likewise get in touch with me if you think I may have
experienced any probs you have.
One thing I'm trying to find out, not urgently but for my spares box, is what are the driveshafts off. I had a full length one (as in, off a
road car) in my spares when I got it. When one sheared, common prob I think, with no diff, I machined a section out of it and have been using it all
year. The Stub axle through to the wheel wasn't part of it though. This is off something else again. I was told the shafts are off a peugeot but
don't know which model. The axle I haven't a clue about but, it has "QH" on it followed by some numbers, which is Quintin
Hazel I think, so I'll google that, next time I've got it off.
You must be a busy man! Uni, ebay sales, and race-cars! Good luck with everything and I'll no doubt speak to you soon.
PS. one more thing. Please see my chain tension query earlier in the thread. How do you run yours?
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eddie99
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| posted on 29/12/10 at 04:42 PM |
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Yep a very steep learning curve. Big difference from the kitcar where i've put the bits together so you know much more precisely what it is when
it goes wrong as with this thing, its a lot harder....
Unsure exactly on driveshafts, could possibly be mini's. I know some of the bits on the car are off the mini. Give graham Hathaway a ring, he
will know exactly and can probably get them for you.
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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daviep
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| posted on 29/12/10 at 09:16 PM |
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Re chain tension:
We ran the chain with almost no slack but not tight either.
We also fitted extra stabilising bars to prevent the engine and cradle moving, when we recieved the car new the cradle was only fixed through the four
bolts through the chassis. There were two braces from the cylinder head going forward and one from the top engine cradle above the gear box going
backwards. These were made with LH and RH threaded rose joints, without them the engine would be pulled backwards and the chain would slacken very
quickly.
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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Marky911
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| posted on 29/12/10 at 10:30 PM |
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Evenin' Davie,
yep that makes perfect sense, I had the engine in mine slide out of position when I first bought it. I milled some sections of flat bar to use as
washers on the bottom 4 cradle bolts, as the old washers were very weedy and had curved into the slots in the cradle. It also has 2 upper side
supports to the chassis from the cyl. head area and is bolted right through the rear of the engine onto a mounting plate that bolts up to chassis
above. I've had no bother since.
I'll definately take up a bit more slack in the chain for next year then. I know how much chain tension affects the gear change on my bike so
it's bound to do the same in the car.
Cheers!
Hi Ed,
yep I'll keep looking into those shafts, as we need them in our spares box. I've spoken to Graham about them but he says they are bespoke.
His are, as the one that sheared on my car had no welding or sleeve in the centre of the shaft (unlike the one I made) but the other side did have and
they both do now. He quoted about £125 for the solid centre part of the shaft but that didn't include the joints or anything. I'm thinking
if I can get good peugeot (or whatever they turn out to be) ones for £30 from a breakers and these include the pot joints then that's a lot, lot
easier on my wallet!
I'll let you know what they are off when I find out. I may try and get in touch with some of the Irish lads, as the championship is still
running strong over there.
I've dealt with Graham quite a bit since buying mine in March and he is top bloke so I don't want to come across as if I'm trying to
sneak around cutting costs, by cutting him out. I buy any parts I need from him, infact I'll be buying the newer style dashboard (like yours) in
a week or two. I just know these shafts are off something else so I want to get some made up for the spares box.
I'm actually looking to get Graham out to a trackday in the summer as he offers a support/setup service for £300 per day. I think having the guy
who designed and built the car, actually drive it and tell you what needs doing straight-away is priceless. You can split the costs by however many of
you want the service. One mate would do. £150 for instant improvement!
See ya!
[Edited on 29/12/10 by Marky911]
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