RichardK
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:54 AM |
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Thinking about it I do like your overlapping design, its growing on me! What sort of money you looking at?
R
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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mcerd1
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 11:27 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FASTdan
I would also hope that such a device will also save the chassis from serious damage.
thats what I always reconed..
even if the tunnel is enough to stop you getting injured, then the propcatchers will save your chassis and any wiring loom, brake or fuel lines that
are in / near the tunnel
also I'd say the rear one if anything is more important (but I'd always fit a pair)
if the front one goes you can just knock the car out of gear - if the rear goes you've got to stop the wheels 
-
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 12:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gavin174
hi
I would be interested.
not sure if 2 holes in each chassis tube might weeken the chassis a bit (4 for each catcher)
I have always been lead to believe that if you drill a hole through any structural tube, you should sleeve the hole (and ideally weld the sleeve in),
to prevent weakening of the structure and any crushing of the tube.
Of course there are many guys on here with far more extensive knowledge of these matters than my humble self.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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se7en
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 12:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RichardK
I personally would prefer this design
 
chunky2772 prop catcher 1
But maybe a bit faffy due to different tunnel width and prop diamentions.
Cheers
Rich
Ditto Rich. I think that yours is much better than the above. It is a piece of over-engineering.
Tom
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brookie
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 03:09 PM |
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i will have a pair as well
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rick q
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 03:11 AM |
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Front and rear are essential in my view. I've had a propshaft let go at the diff end - the catchers in mine saved both the car and me from
considerable damage :- http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=133580
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stevegough
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 05:12 AM |
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Just one point - if you make it one piece, it would be much harder to fit to an existing (finished) car than a two - piece one, as you could fit it
with the prop in situ - or am I stating the obvious? I quite like the idea of some protection in the tunnel, I would have one or two - you
didn't answer the question of price, though?
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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MikeR
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 05:56 AM |
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yes please
i'm interesed in two please (a paranoid front and rear) :-)
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40inches
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 07:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
- you didn't answer the question of price, though?
See the OP's first post.
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FASTdan
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 12:25 PM |
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Some revisions to the design:
3mm Mild Steel
3x position options allowing oval for live back axles (30mm center distance on oval, is this enough?)
6 holes in each plate allows various mounting options, either 2 bolts or 4 bolts, overlapped or if desired can be trimmed down to be non-overlapping.
Weight 220g per assembly.
As previously mentioned I am aiming for a price of £20 for a pair of catchers (4 plates).
 
Description
[Edited on 13/5/11 by FASTdan]
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/
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mads
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 12:51 PM |
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i'm interested in a pair 
We gain knowledge faster than we do wisdom!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in
sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip!"
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hucky
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 12:53 PM |
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you have a buyer here
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RichardK
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 12:55 PM |
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I'll take a set too please mate.
Cheers
R
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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twybrow
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 01:33 PM |
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Also interested in a pair... and maybe a pear...!
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40inches
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 01:34 PM |
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That will do nicely thank you, you can put me down for a pair.
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FASTdan
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 03:36 PM |
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Thanks for the responses guys, drawings are out for quote so early next week I should have a finalised price and delivery date.
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/
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adithorp
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 04:02 PM |
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If these are made to fit the width of an MK or book tunnel, does that mean there's no scope for adjusting then for the prop being offset in the
tunnel?
The damage caused by a broken prop is because when it breaks it then flails around. That flailing can rip out fuel lines, wiring loom, start fires,
and damage paneling and the chassis tubes and some have come through and hit legs/arses! By keeping the broken prop close to in line it doesn't
flail but continues to spin. If it breaks at the rear then it'll stop when you put the clutch in, thus limiting the damage if you'relucky;
If it's at the front it'll continue to flail untill the car stops. All the damage I've heard of, has been caused by this and not by
digging in the ground.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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FASTdan
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 04:51 PM |
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No scope currently for side to side adjustment - how far offset is a prop likely to be?
Current design has a 70mm hole, therefore 10mm clearance all round. I can increase this a bit but obviously as discussed the more clearance the more
out of control the prop becomes. Another 10mm on the rad probably wouldnt hurt?
I could also make the holes into open ended slots, this would offer some scope for sideways adjustment however you will always be limited by a 20mm
box section width.
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
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designer
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 10:39 PM |
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quote:
if you drill a hole through any structural tube, you should sleeve the hole (and ideally weld the sleeve in), to prevent weakening of the structure
and any crushing of the tube.
100% correct.
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indykid
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| posted on 13/5/11 at 11:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by designer
quote:
if you drill a hole through any structural tube, you should sleeve the hole (and ideally weld the sleeve in), to prevent weakening of the structure
and any crushing of the tube.
100% correct.
It's a god job they're going in the uprights of the transmission tunnel then....
For offset props, you could have a split circular plate with an eccentric hole. Assuming you have the vertical wiggle room, you then drill your own
holes in the mounting plate and chassis tubes, having lined it up as desired.
Probably best to stick with the current design though or you'll be iterating forever
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mrwibble
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| posted on 14/5/11 at 12:08 PM |
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i'd be interested have to measure my tunnel width though first. are you going to keep some in stock or, are you taking orders?
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FASTdan
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| posted on 14/5/11 at 12:40 PM |
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It will be a stock item so no need to pre order :-)
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tony.g
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| posted on 15/5/11 at 07:49 AM |
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I'm interested,
When do you expect to have them?
Tony
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FASTdan
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| posted on 15/5/11 at 08:49 AM |
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Should be 2 weeks, will be ordering later this week.
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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HowardB
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| posted on 15/5/11 at 09:00 AM |
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will they be powder coated, painted, galvenised, or some other cunning finish?
As an aside, what if they were made of er,.... plastic? 10mm thick,....
Howard
Fisher Fury was 2000 Zetec - now a 1600 (it Lives again and goes zoom)
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