paublo999
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 08:20 PM |
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Tidy way to organise switched lives feeds?
Hi
As per title, I am rewiring the MNR and previously had various live feeds hanging off the back of the key/kill switch. Can anyone suggest a tidy way
of taking a live feed and distributing it to various circuits?
Also can anyone suggest an immobiliser or way of immobilising a 3rd party ecu without removing the ecu. An FIA kill switch is fine for a race car but
I want to remain road legal. Any advice appreciated as wiring isn't my bag 
Cheers
Paul
My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/ninjabogeyracing
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big-vee-twin
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 08:37 PM |
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Kill switch, to a relay, to a bank of fuses - I have a 40 amp relay switching on 6No fuses.
A Toad Sterling will be ok for immobilisation.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
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Hector.Brocklebank
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 08:38 PM |
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A 6/8/xxx way fuse box with a "bus-bar" type arrangement soldered to the input side so a single live feed on the input side, feeds all the
outlets.
Some people can never handle the truth and always try to shoot the messenger instead of taking an honest look in the mirror (its always easier to
blame another than to face reality), but secretly they wish they could grow a pair and be the messenger !!!
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paublo999
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 10:08 PM |
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Thanks for the replies, I hadn't considered a second fuse box.
How would the pro's do it or on a race car to maximise reliability?
Cheers
My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/ninjabogeyracing
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dhutch
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 11:36 PM |
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You must be able to get a unfused distribution box of male spade connectors? Otherwise can you not crimp 2-3wires into one connector? How many
switched feeds do you have coming off the ignition and for what?
I would certainly agree that a stack of piggy-back spade connectors hanging of the back of the switch (we've all see in done) is not the
greatest plan!
Not a fan of soldering either however.
Daniel
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aladins78
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| posted on 12/2/12 at 11:58 PM |
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try here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/connectors.php#box about half way down the page are a few different types of
distribution/terminal blocks
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loggyboy
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 08:25 AM |
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When u say remain road legal, there is no reason why an FIA kill switch isn't allowed on a road car. its just not accepted as a suitable
immobiliser for IVA. You can retain it and add a typical electronic immobiliser as well.
[Edited on 13/2/12 by loggyboy]
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Peteff
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 10:13 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
When u say remain road legal, there is no reason why an FIA kill switch isn't allowed on a road car. its just not accepted as a suitable
immobiliser for IVA. You can retain it and add a typical electronic immobiliser as well.
[Edited on 13/2/12 by loggyboy]
If you have mechanical anti theft devices an electronic immobiliser is not needed is it ? Does an immobiliser have to be passive arming to pass IVA ?
This kit from Falcon should be enough to do the job I
think.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 10:42 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
If you have mechanical anti theft devices an electronic immobiliser is not needed is it ? Does an immobiliser have to be passive arming to pass IVA ?
This kit from Falcon should be enough to do the job I
think.
Yes, thats right it doesnt have to be electronic, its worded so you must have an ignition switch (A key operated switch normally used to start the
engine.) AND is permanently fitted with an anti-theft device OR an electronic immobiliser.
The mechanical part can just be the steering lock, so keep the donor key switch and column and you comply.
Not sure what you mean by passive arming. do you mean it automatically activates and deactivates? in which case no, it can just be key fob activcated
switch or one that is 'sensed' conactlessly.
[Edited on 13/2/12 by loggyboy]
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Irony
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 10:56 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Hector.Brocklebank
A 6/8/xxx way fuse box with a "bus-bar" type arrangement soldered to the input side so a single live feed on the input side, feeds all the
outlets.
Exactly what I did. Bought a outdoor fuse box thing from Screwfix for a couple of quid and a Bus Bar from ebay. Going to sit it inside the scuttle.
Mines a permanent live setup though. I want a few things on Plive such as a 12v outlet socket and cooling fan etc
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snapper
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 12:03 PM |
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I used the marine type fuse box with pos and neg bus bar, screw fit terminals in and out.
Neat, compact and reliable.
6 to 12 fuses
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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paublo999
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| posted on 13/2/12 at 05:51 PM |
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Cheers all. Happier Wuth the options.
Ordered a toad immobiliser and been looking here
http://www.iem-services.co.uk/search.asp?types=yes&type=Auto+%26+Marine+Electrical+%3E+Bus+Bars
Cheers
Paul
My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/ninjabogeyracing
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