stevegough
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:00 AM |
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Skoda VRS TDI problem
I bought a brilliant new car a couple of weeks ago, but I have done about 600 miles in it and the warning light for the DPF (diesel particle filter)
has illuminated on the dash. The car's running appears to be unchanged, but the manual tells me that I need to burn the soot out of the filter
by simply running the car at over 60km/hr for 5 to 10 minutes. I have tried this (it was quite a bit over 60km/hr  ) and, of course, the light is
still on.
Do any of you knowledgeable types have any info about this - I read somewhere that you can remove the DPF, but I'm a bit sceptical?
Edited to add - it isn't 'new' - just new to me ('07 plate, 115k miles on the clock)
[Edited on 21/9/12 by stevegough]
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Slimy38
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:21 AM |
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I believe there is a way of triggering a DPF regeneration, something via the engine diagnostics?
It can be removed, but it also has to be mapped out of the ECU to get rid of the light, otherwise I think it's an MOT failure now.
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Agriv8
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:21 AM |
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No expert but I would go for obvious first :-
- correct 'Low ash oil used ' at last service ( topped up with correct oil too)
- Check oil level while warm ( I would aim for slightly under max mark )
- Put some decent BP / ESSO / SHELL derv trough
go for a good rag again you need to get the DPF supper hot for it to burn off paticals )
Might work but might not
ATB agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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Slimy38
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:23 AM |
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http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/172798-dpf-forced-regen-no-warning-light/
Mentions a software update?
[Edited on 21/9/12 by Slimy38]
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:25 AM |
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I'd say 5-10mins won't do it. Take it up the M6 for 1/2-1hr at steady throttle around 60-70mph. Is it a 6speed box? If so do it in 5th,
otherwise 4th. It can take a few miles of steady speed before the ECU triggers a DPF regen'.
There's also several additives you can get to add to the tank to help burn off the soot. It'sprobably worth getting one of them in first.
If that doesn't work then you can switch the ECU to regenerate manually with the right code reader.
Some Nissans were recently reported as needing 20mins above 80mph before going into regen, then another 20mins at 80mph min' to complete! Drop
below it and they went back to the start. Needless to say there'sa softwear upgrade.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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cliftyhanger
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:55 AM |
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Have a go, but I suspect the way forward is to get rid of the damn things. More economy, less grief.
A matey bought a touran tdi. In 3 months he did a total of about 400 miles, mostly trying to get the DPF to regen and stay off. The garage eventually
gave him a full refund and they couldn't fix it (even the VW main stealers gave up on it) Their comment was that he bought "the wrong
car" implying they are no good around town and need a longish run every couple of days, which I find very hard to believe.
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 08:06 AM |
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Ok, thanks for all the replies, guys! Now off to try a slower run at a steady speed to try and burn it up - yes, Adrian, it is a six - speed
'box, when I ran it yesterday, I didn't use 6th due to the lack of revs at 90! (ish). Going to try 60mph at about 2000 revs for a bit.
Will report back - but reading some of the Skoda forum in the link Slimy put up, it doesn't bode well. Might think about getting it removed -
they were only required from '09.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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me!
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 08:07 AM |
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Don't put additives in it, you'll throw the calibration out. Go for a decent (30/40 mins, steady) motorway drive, not a thrash. The ECU
has to get the brick to approx 600 deg C to regen, steady ish mass flows makes its life much easier. If you drive mostly around town you probably want
shot of it, it'll never regen in town!
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 09:43 AM |
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Ok, I planned to go for a steady 2000 -> 2500 rpm steady drive up the motorway for 30 mins or so, but first, I had to visit the bank, so, cold
engine, started up, drove 2 miles @ 22 mph (sunday aftynoon guys out early, grr!) then about 8 miles along an 'A' road which I managed to
set the cruise at 2500 rpm @ 55 mph (4th gear) for. Got to the town, stop - start for another mile, parked up, went to the bank, came back, started
up and guess what? - Light's out! drove back home, pretty chuffed.......
......light still out......
..but watch this space....!
Once, again thanks to you all for taking the time to reply and for your help.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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Mr C
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 11:14 AM |
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Hopefully that would have done the trick , I had the same problem with my 07 plate vRS it appeared to sort itself out then shortly after the engine
went into limp mode resulting in a visit to the stealers, who said I didn't drive fast enough, once I picked myself up off the floor, they put
an updated software on the ecu and the problem went away for good then. Might be worth checking this out.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 02:14 PM |
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Never understand the logic in DPF, the whole point is to stop pollution in towns/cities yet the DPF is utterly useless in these locations, as they can
not be re-generated..
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Fieldy
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 02:52 PM |
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Had the same problem with my Saab 93 TTID last year, many times in fact, even though i was doing regular long journeys.. it went back to the garage a
couple of time for a manual regeneration (was in warranty so was free, thank god) but it got so annoying i sold the car. The car had a habit of going
into limp mode meaning i couldn't do as others have said and blast down the motor at high revs!
If yours comes on again i would recommend higher revs than others have suggested close to 3k / 3.25k. If you don't no the idea of regeneration
is getting the exhaust hot enough to burn the debris out of the DPF, so the hotter you can get it the better.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 03:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Never understand the logic in DPF, the whole point is to stop pollution in towns/cities yet the DPF is utterly useless in these locations, as they can
not be re-generated..
and I'm fairly sure that some company has proven that the particulates emitted during regeneration are even worse than the pollution that
it's designed to stop!
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me!
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 03:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Fieldy
i would recommend higher revs than others have suggested close to 3k / 3.25k. If you don't no the idea of regeneration is getting the exhaust
hot enough to burn the debris out of the DPF, so the hotter you can get it the better.
You don't need to pile on the revs- it should regen fine at about 2000 with a bit of load (i.e. motorway). It's done using very late post
injections that burn the fuel on the oxidation catalyst rather than in cylinder. Revving the nuts off it won't help you much, and I'd be
surprised if it got 600 deg into the DPF brick!
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Fieldy
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 04:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by me!
quote:
Originally posted by Fieldy
i would recommend higher revs than others have suggested close to 3k / 3.25k. If you don't no the idea of regeneration is getting the exhaust
hot enough to burn the debris out of the DPF, so the hotter you can get it the better.
You don't need to pile on the revs- it should regen fine at about 2000 with a bit of load (i.e. motorway). It's done using very late post
injections that burn the fuel on the oxidation catalyst rather than in cylinder. Revving the nuts off it won't help you much, and I'd be
surprised if it got 600 deg into the DPF brick!
Your right and wrong, regeneration takes 2 forms, Passive and Active. Passive happens normally and is when the exhaust temperature reaches between
400/500°C (the dpf is close to the engine so these temperatures are achievable) and the regeneration occurs slowly. Active is normally when the DPF
gets to around 60% full and the ECU does what you mentioned above. The light will come on normally active regeneration has been cancelled 2/3 times,
either by you slowing down or stopping. So in theory getting the exhaust up to temperature quicker should clear the fault faster… If you don’t do this
process the car will have to go a garage and they will manually force a regeneration to clear the DPF.
At least that’s how I understand it 
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 04:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Never understand the logic in DPF, the whole point is to stop pollution in towns/cities yet the DPF is utterly useless in these locations, as they can
not be re-generated..
and I'm fairly sure that some company has proven that the particulates emitted during regeneration are even worse than the pollution that
it's designed to stop!
Would not be surprised, I guess the only good thing is you have probably got to go out of town to re-generated the DPF, where pollution would be less
of an issue.. Very glad our Octavia TDI has no DPF..
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llionellis
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 04:53 PM |
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I had the same problem with a VRS fitted with the PD engine (I believe that the CR is better) I drove the thing quite quickly on longish runs with
little or no town work and the DPF light still came on. It always took a 20 mile drive at highish revs 3000+ to clear. I eventually removed the guts
from the DPF and had the ECU re mapped. I removed the DPF my self but would advise against doing it yourself, its a nightmare to remove the downpipe
from the turbo. Once its out its easy enough to cut open and remove the guts (wear an appropriate mask) The remapping was a 2 stage affair one to
programme the DPF out and the second to increase the BHP to about 210. The power output increase made an already fast car addictively quick,
unfortunately the remap for DPF removal didn't work as it should have, after a couple of weeks the DPF light came back on. The company that did
the re mapping had another go but again failed. It was basically a disaster. I eventually gave up on it and traded it in for a ford (20000 miles and
no problems at all). I have found lots of people that have had similar problems with the PD engine. I really enjoyed the VRS when it was working
properly, but would never have another car that had the PD engine.
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Mr C
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 05:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by llionellis
I had the same problem with a VRS fitted with the PD engine (I believe that the CR is better) I drove the thing quite quickly on longish runs with
little or no town work and the DPF light still came on. It always took a 20 mile drive at highish revs 3000+ to clear. I eventually removed the guts
from the DPF and had the ECU re mapped. I removed the DPF my self but would advise against doing it yourself, its a nightmare to remove the downpipe
from the turbo. Once its out its easy enough to cut open and remove the guts (wear an appropriate mask) The remapping was a 2 stage affair one to
programme the DPF out and the second to increase the BHP to about 210. The power output increase made an already fast car addictively quick,
unfortunately the remap for DPF removal didn't work as it should have, after a couple of weeks the DPF light came back on. The company that did
the re mapping had another go but again failed. It was basically a disaster. I eventually gave up on it and traded it in for a ford (20000 miles and
no problems at all). I have found lots of people that have had similar problems with the PD engine. I really enjoyed the VRS when it was working
properly, but would never have another car that had the PD engine.
As mentioned before I had the same issues with my previous PD vRS, I've had a CR vRS for over two years now and its a totally different car,
refined, quiet, fast no lag and no dpf issues at all. If your budget can srtetch to a CR car its the one to have.
Girl walks into a bar and asks for a double entendre, so the barman gave her one
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austin man
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 06:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
I bought a brilliant new car a couple of weeks ago, but I have done about 600 miles in it and the warning light for the DPF (diesel particle filter)
has illuminated on the dash. The car's running appears to be unchanged, but the manual tells me that I need to burn the soot out of the filter
by simply running the car at over 60km/hr for 5 to 10 minutes. I have tried this (it was quite a bit over 60km/hr ) and, of course, the light is
still on.
Do any of you knowledgeable types have any info about this - I read somewhere that you can remove the DPF, but I'm a bit sceptical?
Edited to add - it isn't 'new' - just new to me ('07 plate, 115k miles on the clock)
[Edited on 21/9/12 by stevegough]
Make a visit to martin at Pendle performance in Barnoldswick he can sort it and give it more ooomph hes well informed on the VAG range
http://www.pendleperformance.com/
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by austin man
quote:
Originally posted by stevegough
I bought a brilliant new car a couple of weeks ago, but I have done about 600 miles in it and the warning light for the DPF (diesel particle filter)
has illuminated on the dash. The car's running appears to be unchanged, but the manual tells me that I need to burn the soot out of the filter
by simply running the car at over 60km/hr for 5 to 10 minutes. I have tried this (it was quite a bit over 60km/hr ) and, of course, the light is
still on.
Do any of you knowledgeable types have any info about this - I read somewhere that you can remove the DPF, but I'm a bit sceptical?
Edited to add - it isn't 'new' - just new to me ('07 plate, 115k miles on the clock)
[Edited on 21/9/12 by stevegough]
Make a visit to martin at Pendle performance in Barnoldswick he can sort it and give it more ooomph hes well informed on the VAG range
http://www.pendleperformance.com/
I have had a look at their website - its very tempting.....but I'll see how it goes for now - if the problem persists, (or I get fed up with the
lack of power ) then I'll seriously consider it.
Thanks, Austin man.
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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austin man
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 07:56 PM |
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I took my T5 to him it was a 104bhp model, he ran it up on the rolling road took a reading which was 97 BHP with 247 nm of torque, she is now running
133 bhp with 328nm of torque all for £245 and the MPG has improved slightly
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 08:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by austin man
I took my T5 to him it was a 104bhp model, he ran it up on the rolling road took a reading which was 97 BHP with 247 nm of torque, she is now running
133 bhp with 328nm of torque all for £245 and the MPG has improved slightly
Presume the Volvo wasn't DPF'd ?
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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austin man
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 08:56 PM |
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VW t5 transporter Martin was one of the first to work around the DPF delete he is reknown as a VW guru I travelled 180 round trip to get mine done by
hime check out his site
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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GOJO
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| posted on 21/9/12 at 09:26 PM |
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The light may be out for the time being but the soot content i imagine will still be high all your drive cycle has done has brought the pressure
difference within its limits below where the dpf light would be activated, you really need to have a forced regeneration done to get the soot content
down to 0%.
The pressure difference sensor all also a fairly common failure on the whole v.a.g range.
1 for £60 i can do a forced regeneration
2 £200 i can decode dpf function
3 £280 i can chip and decode the dpf function in the ecu
4 £450 i can chip and decode the dpf function in the ecu and remove the dpf block cut out and weld and refit
Im in guiseley i will travel for 2&3 the others you would have to come to me, not far for you
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stevegough
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| posted on 22/9/12 at 07:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by austin man
VW t5 transporter Martin was one of the first to work around the DPF delete he is reknown as a VW guru I travelled 180 round trip to get mine done by
hime check out his site
Oh! that T5 - not the Volvo, then!
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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