Andybarbet
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posted on 23/10/12 at 08:24 PM |
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Does my home made fuel rail look ok ? inlet/outlet question too
I managed to grab some lunchbreaks on the lathe at work so have made 3 brass sections to fit my GSXR 1000 fuel rail.
Im basically replacing the ali originals with brass because i have respaced some GSXR600 throttle bodies to suit my silvertop zetec & brass was
the only round bar i could find for free in steptoe's yard (namely 'my garage'
Here's one section with the 'O' rings fitted
![](/galpreviews/Centre fuel rail small.JPG) ![centre fuel rail](/gallery/Centre fuel rail small.JPG) centre fuel rail
Im planning on fitting 2 hose tail barbs, one in each brass end section so that i have a flow & return for the fuel pipes, as per this mock up
picture
![](/galpreviews/brass fuel rail small.JPG) ![brass fuel rail](/gallery/brass fuel rail small.JPG) brass fuel rail
Here is a practice fit on a scrap piece of brass, i milled a flat on it, then drilled & tapped for the hose barb
![](/galpreviews/brass hosetail trial small.JPG) ![centre fuel rail](/gallery/brass hosetail trial small.JPG) centre fuel rail
Main questions are:
Do i need a flow & return on the fuel rail ?
Will it work with them in these positions ?
Does this all make sense & look ok ?
If it all seems good, what can i use to seal the hose barbs into the brass fuel rail ? I have access to hydraulic sealant or araldite etc.
Cheers Andy
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needforspeed
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posted on 23/10/12 at 08:31 PM |
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absolutely fine tho i would run the fuel pressure reg at the tank so it would only require 1 feed to the rail and get some 6mm 1/npt barbs and tap the
rail rather than bonding them, or braze them on if you have bottles. looks good tho nice job!
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Andybarbet
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posted on 23/10/12 at 08:49 PM |
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I was under the impression that i needed a flow & return all he way back to the fuel tank, your idea will save me running two pipes from front to
back which is a bonus
Im very new to this fuel injection lark, learning every day, is it ok to use the regulator from the GSXR or is there another recommended type ?
I will check out npt barbs, might have some at work if i talk to the boss nicely, only issue may be that i dont have much 'meat' to drill
& tap into on the brass fuel rail sections.
We do have brazeing equipment covered in dust at work though, could be another lunchtime learning project
I am pleased with the bits so far, the last time i used a lathe properly was in about 1991 at engineering college !
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needforspeed
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posted on 23/10/12 at 08:52 PM |
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CBR1000RAA-SC59-ABS-2010-FIREBLADE-FUEL-PUMP-DENSO-MAKE-/251146598090?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a7980f6ca
r />
anything like this is perfect fuel reg pump and swirl pot built into one unit using just 1 pipe to the front! youl find one cheaper than that tho
great to work with isnt it brass!
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FASTdan
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posted on 24/10/12 at 07:05 AM |
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Very nice job :-)
Not sure how big diameter your brass is but 1/8th BSP (approx 9mm dia) taper hosetails are readily available and make a nice easy seal.
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/
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FASTdan
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posted on 24/10/12 at 11:06 AM |
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Who's manifold is that out of interest?
NEW danST WEBSITE NOW LIVE! Bike carbs, throttle bodies and more......
http://www.danstengineering.co.uk/
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Mr Whippy
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posted on 24/10/12 at 11:47 AM |
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if you have a return feed to the tank in the fuel rail, would that not help prevent problems of fuel boiling in there if switched off when hot and
then restarted as any bubbles would be purged out?
[Edited on 24/10/12 by Mr Whippy]
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Andybarbet
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posted on 24/10/12 at 12:27 PM |
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Needforspeed: I must admit, brass is lovely to work with
FASTdan: Not sure who made the manifold, it was bought cheap (£30) from a fellow forum member, the back plate had bowed about 1.5mm across its length
where the pipes had been tig welded on & the holes that mate up with the inlet ports on the head need opening up a bit more because they are
smaller than the inside diameter or the 4 pipes.
I put it on the mill at work & levelled off the backplate, its still 10mm thick so nice & meaty, just need to put it back on the mill &
carefully open out the 4 ports.
Here it is after milling flat but before i try to open up the 4 ports
![](/galpreviews/manifold small.JPG) ![manifold after milling](/gallery/manifold small.JPG) manifold after milling
MR Whippy: Good point i will wait to see if anyone has some more info before i start fitting the fuel feed barbs.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 24/10/12 at 08:05 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Andybarbet
I managed to grab some lunchbreaks on the lathe at work so have made 3 brass sections to fit my GSXR 1000 fuel rail.
Im basically replacing the ali originals with brass because i have respaced some GSXR600 throttle bodies to suit my silvertop zetec & brass was
the only round bar i could find for free in steptoe's yard (namely 'my garage'
Here's one section with the 'O' rings fitted
![](/galpreviews/Centre fuel rail small.JPG) ![centre fuel rail](/gallery/Centre fuel rail small.JPG) centre fuel rail
Im planning on fitting 2 hose tail barbs, one in each brass end section so that i have a flow & return for the fuel pipes, as per this mock up
picture
![](/galpreviews/brass fuel rail small.JPG) ![brass fuel rail](/gallery/brass fuel rail small.JPG) brass fuel rail
Here is a practice fit on a scrap piece of brass, i milled a flat on it, then drilled & tapped for the hose barb
![](/galpreviews/brass hosetail trial small.JPG) ![centre fuel rail](/gallery/brass hosetail trial small.JPG) centre fuel rail
Main questions are:
Do i need a flow & return on the fuel rail ?
Will it work with them in these positions ?
Does this all make sense & look ok ?
If it all seems good, what can i use to seal the hose barbs into the brass fuel rail ? I have access to hydraulic sealant or araldite etc.
Cheers Andy
I would suggest the barbs need to be right at the ends of the fuel rail otherwise it defeats the objective od having a pukka supply and return
system.
If this is not possible revert back to the bike single pipe system, with a T piece near the rail with a standard regulator T'd in for the return
to the take.
I would solder the barbs in if i was you.
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AdrianH
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posted on 24/10/12 at 08:51 PM |
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Second for solder, try plumbers stuff and add flux
Adrian
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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Andybarbet
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posted on 26/10/12 at 12:23 PM |
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'I would suggest the barbs need to be right at the ends of the fuel rail '
Unfortunately i cant fit into the ends of the rail because they are a blanked off plastic fitting each end, this would be a neat way to do it but not
sure i could thread/seal a brass fitting into the plastic housing without splitting it ?
![](/images//smilies/sad.gif)
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Davegtst
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posted on 26/10/12 at 12:52 PM |
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I have only a feed pipe up to the rail with a pressure regulator very close to the tank and a very short return. I dont get any problems with the
fuel getting hot and it makes a neater instal as you only have to run one fuel pipe from the back to the front. Loads of modern cars use this system
so it's not a problem.
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BaileyPerformance
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posted on 26/10/12 at 01:22 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Davegtst
I have only a feed pipe up to the rail with a pressure regulator very close to the tank and a very short return. I dont get any problems with the
fuel getting hot and it makes a neater instal as you only have to run one fuel pipe from the back to the front. Loads of modern cars use this system
so it's not a problem.
I would do it that way, but the regulator should be T'd in close to the fuel rail to avoid lock, on the Bike the regulator is housed in the tank
as part of the pump assembly, but the tank and pump is above the engine so no fuel lock or air problems.
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