jacko
|
 posted on 23/2/13 at 05:46 PM |
|
|
Tiling a bathroom
Hi All i am looking for any advice people can give me too help me tile a bathroom ie
do i tile the wall behind the bath or on top of the bath
how to set out the walls
etc
jacko
|
|
|
|
|
adam1985
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 05:59 PM |
|
|
Definatly fit and secure bath first tile down to the bath. Once tile and grout dry neat bead of silicone jobs a good un.
I normaly centre the window off as thats a focal point then work round from there.
Im not a tiler but have tiled a few and all ended up looking really good using that method
But there could be a better way tiler use.
|
|
|
Agriv8
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 06:09 PM |
|
|
I have this to do next year I will need to re plaster board can I tile strait onto the player board .? or am I best going for some of the fancy
waterproof board .?
Sorry for the hijack
Regards agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 06:15 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
I have this to do next year I will need to re plaster board can I tile strait onto the player board .? or am I best going for some of the fancy
waterproof board .?
Sorry for the hijack
Regards agriv8
Today i was told if you/ I use water proof board you / I will have to use flexible glue/ grout
if we use plaster board we can use standard tile glue but seal the board first
Jacko
|
|
|
rdodger
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 06:30 PM |
|
|
Fit the bath first
Don't rely on the leg set and brace it from the floor
Set the the tiles to give decent cuts (more than half a tile if poss) upto windows and the top of the bath.
I tile from a level batton set from the floor again to give decent cuts to the floor and ceiling.
After tiling and the adhesive has gone off, gun silicon into the gap between bath and tile then brace from the floor to the under edge of the bath so
it goes tight to the tile and some silicon is squeezed out.
Then you can run a bead to seal it.
Regarding tile backer board or plaster board. Tile backer is good as long as it's used with a tanking system. I would use it in a shower area.
That way if you do get a leak through a joint the board doesn't soak it up like plaster board does. Use platerboard everywhere else. Use
waterproof adhesive especially in a shower area and waterproof grout (supergrout is good but a bitch to work with)
|
|
|
Slimy38
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 06:32 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
I have this to do next year I will need to re plaster board can I tile strait onto the player board .? or am I best going for some of the fancy
waterproof board .?
Sorry for the hijack
Regards agriv8
Today i was told if you/ I use water proof board you / I will have to use flexible glue/ grout
if we use plaster board we can use standard tile glue but seal the board first
Jacko
Nup, you can use standard tile adhesive with the waterproof board. That's all I did many moons ago and it's still fine.
We had awful trouble with the original bathroom, the plaster board got wet and swelled, which split the tiles apart, which allowed water in, and the
circle began again. By the time I came to sort it the plaster board was mush and we had more water in the kitchen than in the shower. I tore the lot
down and replaced it with the cement based version (can't remember the trade name). It was so many times heavier and I got through lots of knife
blades cutting it, but it worked well.
Although you could argue that as long as the grout doesn't get damaged then no water will get through anyway, but I didn't want to take
the risk.
|
|
|
rpm
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 06:34 PM |
|
|
fit the bath first,
in general mark a centre line on the wall and work away from that, the idea is you don't end up with silly little cuts to the corner, this may
mean starting with a tile halfway across the line or full tiles away from it. the same principle applies to the horizontal/hight, take into account
how high your going and work the levels so you don't get small cuts at the bath, if you have to have a small cut put them at floor level, in an
ideal world you won't end up with a cut less than a third of a tile, it really just takes some logical thought and mark/measure it out with a
pencil first hth
roger
|
|
|
corrado vr6
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 07:40 PM |
|
|
When doing the silicone you should really fill the bath then apply silicone leave to dry then empty the bath
http://r1indy7.wordpress.com/
|
|
|
Slimy38
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 09:58 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by corrado vr6
When doing the silicone you should really fill the bath then apply silicone leave to dry then empty the bath
That's how I used to do it, but then my brother in law showed me the way rdodger explains. Instead of relying on the bath fitted legs, brace the
edge of the bath all the way round the walls and then some more underneath, so even when the bath is full it doesn't move.
Filling the bath before doing the silicone seems to be a compensation for bath movement, I prefer to make the bath so rigid that it can't move.
|
|
|
coyoteboy
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 10:14 PM |
|
|
Yep, build a supporting wooden frame to hold all edges and the base.
|
|
|
rdodger
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 10:16 PM |
|
|
I still fill the bath before sealing. Habit I guess.
Also check the way the joists go and support the bath legs across the joists on timber skis or a sheet of ply.
|
|
|
Agriv8
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 10:32 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by jacko
quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
I have this to do next year I will need to re plaster board can I tile strait onto the player board .? or am I best going for some of the fancy
waterproof board .?
Sorry for the hijack
Regards agriv8
Today i was told if you/ I use water proof board you / I will have to use flexible glue/ grout
if we use plaster board we can use standard tile glue but seal the board first
Jacko
Nup, you can use standard tile adhesive with the waterproof board. That's all I did many moons ago and it's still fine.
We had awful trouble with the original bathroom, the plaster board got wet and swelled, which split the tiles apart, which allowed water in, and the
circle began again. By the time I came to sort it the plaster board was mush and we had more water in the kitchen than in the shower. I tore the lot
down and replaced it with the cement based version (can't remember the trade name). It was so many times heavier and I got through lots of knife
blades cutting it, but it worked well.
Although you could argue that as long as the grout doesn't get damaged then no water will get through anyway, but I didn't want to take
the risk.
Slimed yup that's the position I am in so water proof board looks like the answer and you tilled direct to the bord ?
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
|
|
|
Slimy38
|
| posted on 23/2/13 at 10:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Agriv8
Slimed yup that's the position I am in so water proof board looks like the answer and you tilled direct to the bord ?
Yep, no other prep. Obviously use a waterproof adhesive and grout as already mentioned, they seem to be a little more 'rubbery' and
flexible compared to standard grout so that would also help with water leaks.
One of the walls was an outside wall, and the original builders use a 'dab and fix' method (I think that's what it's called)
for the original plasterboard. As the concrete board is very slightly thicker (12mm from memory compared to 8mm) I chipped off all the
'dabs', and screwed a light wood frame to the outside wall (standard screws and rawlplugs in the breeze block). I then fixed the concrete
board to that frame.
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 24/2/13 at 08:42 AM |
|
|
Bracethe bath with a full frame
Silcone the bath edge to the boards
Then tile as above and reseal with silicone once set and grouted
I use a diamond cutting wheel table for most cuts and its a revelation
You'll need to cut outside as fine dust goes everywhere
I also use diamond spearhead drills for fixing stuff to the wall
If your hanging bogs and basins and if the original plaster is dot & dab you'll need to cut in wood and screw to the block work for
something the screw to
My next and hopefully last house project is a complete strip back to bare walls job in the family bathroom
The avocado bath suite has just got to go!!!
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
