Hi everyone, I'm Mark from Suffolk, I am new to this so bare with me. I purchased this kit from a colleague a few years ago as he couldn't
get the time to build it. I have only just got the motivation and space to start doing something with it myself. I am in the motor trade working for a
main dealer but obviously this is not anything like repairing modern vehicles so this is all new to me.
I have been doing a lot or research (most on this site) trying to work out what fits what and what will work for me. I don't have a huge budget
for this but don't see this as a problem as for me I would rather make/modify parts to do the job rather than off the shelf. I like the way you
can build these and there is no right or wrong way to a point. I have also been reading through the IVA manual, I am an MOT tester but there is sooo
much more to think about and could have without reading this overlooked some major points.
So far I believe it to be a Ron Champion design, it came with a pinto engine and I know a lot can be done with these engines but at a cost, also I
wanted something more modern which for me makes the build more interesting. I am getting my 3 children aged between 5 and 9 involved where thay can. I
decided I wanted a ST170 engine with a type 9 gearbox and 1.8 zetec flywheel. I have not decided what clutch plate and cover to use yet but thinking
2.0 pinto as these seem to cope with the power better from what I have read and hopefully fit after re drilling flywheel.
I will be using the original fuel system which will keep the cost down but will be a tight squeeze in sure. I will be after some advice along the way
on this build and also some parts I have not got both I am hoping this will be the place to come to.
Rear axle fitted with just bolts pushed through temporary as I plan to build it up and once I know everything lines up and any mounts that need
welding in are done I can get it shot blasted and powder coated.
Panels just resting in place to see what's what, missing transmission tunnel rear panel drivers side but upper and lower box sections
don't meet at the same position making the panel awkward.
big_wasa I think I have seen that picture before but didn't notice the notch in that rail before. I removed the engine from the donor vehicle
today and offered it up and is very tight. I had to cut the rail that goes across the top to form the A frame to make room. I'm guessing this is
for extra strength in a crash on drivers side and has to have it? Does it have to be on the same side of steering column? I was going to get the
engine and steering column in before worrying about it and I should see where it can go.
Here it is squeezed in but still has full exhaust manifold, aircon compressor and driveshaft bracket etc so I'm surprised it went in this
far.
Also removed the wiring and related modules from the car, will dismantle loom and cut out what I don't need, not sure on lengths just yet so
only so far I can go. The other problem I can see is getting a gearbox speed signal so the PCM is happy to get the engine to idle when pulling up, any
advise here would be great, I have thought about stripping the gearbox from the ST and seeing the pick up so I can try and replicate the signal with
either magnets on a hub or mount the actual original tone wheel somewhere? Not sure how fussy the PCM is with this signal as I obviously don't
need it to be speed accurate but needs to know when moving or stationary.
The exhaust manifold being steel is much easier to work with.
I've run them with and with out the Vss (vehicle speed sensor) I could not detect any differance to the running of the engine, with or with out.
You will get an error code with out.
You can add this to the T9. The last of the T9's had one built in as standard. You can buy an adapter from revtec @ burton power.
Mark as has been said you can get an adaptor for the type 9 box to take the ford sender the signal can then also be used for the speedo. If you need
any engine machining like your flywheel I would recommend Scholar on the A140 near Mendlesham, they lightened, balanced and redrilled my flywheel for
me a few years ago at a reasonable price.
This assumes you are not using a mechanical speedo.
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1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com
I was going to use the mechanical speedo that came with it but this adapter does sound like a easier way to do it, thanks for all the info chaps. I
normally use Coltec in Hollesley as just up the road for machining. I plan to leave the flywheel as it is for the moment and if needed get it
lightened once it is on the road. The other thing is the upper ball joints that came with it do not protrude to allow the nut to go on enough passes
the nyloc. I'm not keen on making the knuckle thinner and have read that different makes of transit ball joint can be different lengths, does
anyone know what makes are long enough?
Hi welcome... I sort of went the same way fitting an ST170 but ditched the inlet and exhaust manifolds.. I too went the make as many bits as possible
but at the same time went the 'don't tell the wife how much that cost' route although most parts are recycled i.e. bought second
hand. I fitted a dry sump because I needed to get the motor down to clear the bonnet. So DTA S60 ECU, Jenvey throttle bodies, Pace scavenge only dry
sump, Dunnell flywheel and alternator, type 9 long first gear, Burton hydraulic clutch conversion and it works a treat all be it a bit juicy on 48
throttle bodies. I have kept the variable cam timing although some say it doesn't buy much but I thought if its good enough for ford then its
good enough for me. If you need any advice although can't comment on the original ECU setup then drop me a line.
Sounds good Dave, been stripping the loom today of all the covering, will remove unwanted pins from PCM connector like EVAP solenoid, PAS, Aircon and
reverse switches. should be able to reconnect with 1.8 flywheel to make sure it still fires up.
As far as I can see I will need 3 relays, power hold relay feeds all 12v actuators on engine, fuel pump and a starter relay. I will have the power
hold relay power up with the ignition key and then a seperate push button for the starter relay.
Has anyone managed to adapt the original fuel pump to fit these tanks?
There is a fuel pump relay that powers the module up on the wiring diagrams as you say depends what switch I use or could just add it to the power
hold relay I suppose. I was surprised to find the barometric sensor inside the car next to the inhibiter switch for fuel pump. Do they do a pump with
level sensor built in for these? My tank only has filler and one pipe on bottom for fuel feed, obviously built with a carb set up in mind. What is the
normal set up on these people go for? Am I stuck with having external pump? Would this type of tank not have a gauge?
Mounted the bell housing to mark out parts that need cutting off the engine webbing. Looks like a large chunk needs to be cut to fit the starter
motor.
I have also modified the engine wiring harness so I just have the minimum on there and have hooked up to a battery and made sure I can communicate
with the PCM and the key is recognised. I have also removed the under bonnet fuse box from the donor car which makes powering up the fuel pump module,
PCM etc very easy and should keep it nice and neat.
Next job is to try and see what needs to be done to fit rear brakes from the ST. Remove PAS pump, aircon compressor etc and make up some engine
mounts.
