I have tried twice so far to pass the dB noise test at Castle Coombe
The first time I booked a slot it failed as it the was to noisey.
On getting the striker home I tuck the riveted Exhaust/Can apart it was like brand new
In there it was rammed with flat sheet packing.
The can had not long been brought for the car buy the last owner.
He said it was brought from RAW
The second time I Booked a slot a I fitted a dB killer in the pipe it still failed the dB test
The only mod's That the owner had done is to have the full bonnet hindge from the front
Picture 1 shows a cut out a hole in the bonnet
Picture 2 shows the cut out inside of the bonnet
Picture 3 shows a filter to a fiberglass box to the twin 40's
Picture 4 shows the fiberglass back plate on the twin 40's
The last picture shows the standard exhaust/Can
Would this make the striker to noise for a dB test.
The striker does have two stickers from old tracks day.
So all I can guess is that fiberglass box & hole in the boonet have made the striker to loud now
Striker Bonnet Top
Striker Bonnet Underneath
Striker Carb Fiberglass box
Striker Carb Back Plate filter
Striker Stand alone F Filters
Striker stand alone B Filter
Striker Exhaust
The airbox and filter will be quieter than the twin sock type filters, and release more power. Plus teh induction is teh opposite side and a fair way
from the exhaust where tested.
99% you need a better exhaust.....
quote:
Originally posted by jester
In there it was rammed with flat sheet packing.
Acousta-fil?
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
The airbox and filter will be quieter than the twin sock type filters, and release more power. Plus teh induction is teh opposite side and a fair way from the exhaust where tested.
99% you need a better exhaust.....
quote:
Originally posted by pigeondave
quote:
Originally posted by jester
In there it was rammed with flat sheet packing.
Hmm could be the problem. I was told 150-125g/litre for the packing, threads on here use the quilt stuff which expands due to the threads melting and releasing it.
I cant remember the name, but I do remember most say use less than they say in the calculator. Do a search on here for repacking exhausts and it'll show.
My exhaust repack is on JPSC forum "Stuffing the can".
Sound like a repack with possible slightly less material is your next option.
quote:
Originally posted by JMW
Acousta-fil?
Sounds like your exhaust might be over packed, as others have said.
I'd repack with acoustafil. Use the online calculator but then put in 25-30% less than it suggests. That's what's been found works best
in practice. It'll look pretty empty but once the quilting tread melts it'll expand to fill the space. You won't need the stainless
wire wool as pigeondave used if using acoustic.
Here is some pictures of the currant packing that is in the Exhaust/Can
That was brought by the last owner from Raw
Description
Description
Description
Just wondering what figure they gave you when you failed? If it was a long way over then it'll take a lot to bring it down (obviously) but if not
a lot over then tweaks might get you there. Remember it is a logarithmic scale so every ten dB is double the sound so if you were testing at, say,
108, then I doubt that repacking an existing can will get you below 100 but if you got, say, 103, when you failed you might get there.
If you are after a big reduction it'll have to be a longer and wider can.
Also worth trying (if you don't already have one) a 90 degree bend on the outlet pointing slightly downwards. I've heard just that alone
saving a whole dB and hardly any back pressure.
I've been to Combe a lot as it is only 11 miles from home. I've always found the guys to be friendly and helpful and they can often give a
bit of advice. For my BEC they accepted my saying I was trying a new map so was going to keep it below 10,500 so let me test at 7500rpm instead of 8k
quote:
Originally posted by jester
Here is some pictures of the currant packing that is in the Exhaust/Can
That was brought by the last owner from Raw
quote:
Originally posted by Sanzomat
Just wondering what figure they gave you when you failed? If it was a long way over then it'll take a lot to bring it down (obviously) but if not a lot over then tweaks might get you there. Remember it is a logarithmic scale so every ten dB is double the sound so if you were testing at, say, 108, then I doubt that repacking an existing can will get you below 100 but if you got, say, 103, when you failed you might get there.
If you are after a big reduction it'll have to be a longer and wider can.
Also worth trying (if you don't already have one) a 90 degree bend on the outlet pointing slightly downwards. I've heard just that alone saving a whole dB and hardly any back pressure.
I've been to Combe a lot as it is only 11 miles from home. I've always found the guys to be friendly and helpful and they can often give a bit of advice. For my BEC they accepted my saying I was trying a new map so was going to keep it below 10,500 so let me test at 7500rpm instead of 8k
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Sounds like your exhaust might be over packed, as others have said.
I'd repack with acoustafil. Use the online calculator but then put in 25-30% less than it suggests. That's what's been found works best in practice. It'll look pretty empty but once the quilting tread melts it'll expand to fill the space. You won't need the stainless wire wool as pigeondave used if using acoustic.
What a pain.
If you are getting 108 static they is quite alot. I doubt it's intake side as you are not trudging on a drive by and as mentioned they box should
get the noise down.
I have a RAW exhaust and get about 98 static with acoustafil. Certainly worth repacking.
Also check for and holes in your exhaust.
Focal tip, unsure how you are getting your dB tests done but if you ask a day of so before you will be allowed to rock up at a track day and just get
it tested.
The marshals, if good ones, are often very experienced and helpful.
I hope you get it sorted and get to go out and play
Made the mistake of using the Acoustafil calculator so have a 2 foot by 4 foot piece left over if it's of use to you
i have the same silencer. At IVA it was 99 and flickering to 100. After i repacked it with Acoustafil and was tested a few weeks ago at castle coombe and is 96db, massive improvement. Just have to drive it hard and get it bloody hot to expand etc, i did about 150 miles non stop to get mine to where it needed to be!
Repacked my SBD silencer with Acostafil and was very impressed with it
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
What a pain.
If you are getting 108 static they is quite alot. I doubt it's intake side as you are not trudging on a drive by and as mentioned they box should get the noise down.
I have a RAW exhaust and get about 98 static with acoustafil. Certainly worth repacking.
Also check for and holes in your exhaust.
Focal tip, unsure how you are getting your dB tests done but if you ask a day of so before you will be allowed to rock up at a track day and just get it tested.
The marshals, if good ones, are often very experienced and helpful.
I hope you get it sorted and get to go out and play
quote:
Originally posted by Rich J
Made the mistake of using the Acoustafil calculator so have a 2 foot by 4 foot piece left over if it's of use to you
quote:
Originally posted by ttalps2000
i have the same silencer. At IVA it was 99 and flickering to 100. After i repacked it with Acoustafil and was tested a few weeks ago at castle coombe and is 96db, massive improvement. Just have to drive it hard and get it bloody hot to expand etc, i did about 150 miles non stop to get mine to where it needed to be!
quote:
Originally posted by perksy
Repacked my SBD silencer with Acostafil and was very impressed with it
Dont tightly pack it though as it expands! It stinks for a while too, but the key is to get it hot. Wasnt until i went out on the motorway where it got some decent heat into it that it began to quieten down