Copland
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| posted on 5/4/14 at 07:09 PM |
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Megablade clutch?
Hi all, New to the forum.
Have just got my fist kit-car, a megablade that was on this forum for sale a couple of years ago.
I have had a few issues in the first couple of weeks of ownership but have got most of them sorted but my biggest issue is the clutch!
The cable feels like it has no free-play in it but I can "bounce the clutch pedal at the top travel for about 2" before I get any real
resistance from the clutch itself.
As soon as the pedal is pushed it does start moving the gearbox lever tho? Am thinking of taking a lot of play out of the pedal by taking half the
lever travel out but this might let to the clutch slipping with full power applied or over throw the clutch itself?
I have been told it has barnet uprated springs fitted but I haven't had the cover off to check although I did get a spare set of clutch friction
disks to fit.
Can anyone tell me how to get a good feel from the pedal as am either stalling or setting off with the back end burning away the tyres!
Cheers.
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martyn1137
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| posted on 5/4/14 at 09:11 PM |
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I find pulling away with my Indybird a bit of an art. It is naturally more sensitive than a car engine as there is a much smaller flywheel to keep it
turning over as you take up the drive and if you give it a bit to much right foot the revs pick up very quickly and lights up the rears.
I have changed the master cylinder for a smaller bore to obtain more feel which improved it considerably.
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Copland
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| posted on 5/4/14 at 09:28 PM |
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Thanks for the reply mate.
The problem I have is that my megablade has a cable and not a hydraulic clutch, would change it if I had any clue as to where to get a kit.
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mark chandler
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| posted on 5/4/14 at 09:48 PM |
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Clutch on mine has plenty of feel, that's with a lockup and Barnett springs, I do have a long pedal as the distance from the pivot to the cable
end is short and it's adjusted so the free play on the pedal is about 1", the cable is not slack but adjusted up to give the correct
amount of free play.
This is not a problem, the clutch actuating rod pulls against a ball race and is only sprung loaded on the outside of the casing, also with my pedal
ratio I cannot push the clutch to the point of binding the springs.
I suggest you alter the pivot point on the pedal by shorterning between the pivot and cable termination which will give more feel.
Note, it's very easy to stall as no inertia due to such a small flywheel.
[Edited on 5/4/14 by mark chandler]
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ReMan
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| posted on 6/4/14 at 07:46 AM |
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To re iterate what mark says it does sound like there some adjustment to be done to take up this free play. But you also probably need a back stop to
to prevent over travel unless your setup happens to be right without. If theres room to altrr the pivot point then that may help, But even when right
they do take some getting used to, but its worth it
www.plusnine.co.uk
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Copland
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| posted on 6/4/14 at 07:10 PM |
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Hi,
I don't think it over throwing the clutch (not sure how to tell tho).
I have seen the return spring on the outside of the clutch throw lever and wondered if anyone have put a different spring in there to help and give
more feel. did think about putting a spring from the chassis to the lever to help pull it back and add some resistance into the pedal feel?
I will have a look tomorrow and see if I have room to move the other end of the cable closer to the pivot point of the pedal, is there any science in
how much to move it down?
Last question, should I have any pre-tension on the gearbox lever atall?
Cheers.
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Copland
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| posted on 6/4/14 at 07:33 PM |
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BTW if it makes any difference the car bangs like hell putting it into any gear including first and the reverse box is always spinning I guess even
when in neutral as it grinds going into reverse selection if this makes any odds?
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ReMan
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| posted on 6/4/14 at 10:07 PM |
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Sounds like you've got a bit of drag going on, probably normal, and might just be enough to spin the front prop and reverse box even in in
neutral?
Its *normal* for a bit of a clunk into first , (thats BEC's for you) and sometimes a little tricky to get neutral, but it should let you.
The spring on the clutch is only enough to keep the cable under tension thats all, and yoyu shouldn't need to add any more spring anywhere, that
won't add feel, just weight o the pedal.
If I get what you mean by pretensioning the gear lever, you should just use a smart but firm action when stationary. After that on the move yes medium
presser just before the change, come off the power momentarily and snap it into the next gear, should take very little effort, and barely, if any any
clutch when pressing on up through the gears. Minimal clutch dip with or without a blip going back down
www.plusnine.co.uk
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baslow
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| posted on 14/5/15 at 10:06 AM |
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New to forum / bec's and just bought my first Megablade...
I u2u'd copland as I was interested in up-rating the clutch to hydraulic but there is very little information on this anywhere as copland
suggested. I am having issues with my clutch slipping and after lots of reading I going to start trouble shooting tonight. I thought i'd post
this as i have had real difficulty in finding this information out -
I have a MegaBlade 94-99 919 and there are three different clutch types for this engine:
Year 93-95 – 9 Frictions (8x1)
Year 96-97 – 10 Frictions (9x1)
Year 98-99 – 8 Frictions (7x1)
I'm going to strip mine down this evening and check which i have and if any plates are bent. I'll keep you posted. cheers
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Matt21
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| posted on 14/5/15 at 11:47 AM |
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93-95 engines are 893cc
96-99 are 919cc,
96-97 use 10 clutch plates
98-99 use 8 clutch plates
What's the engine number off the top of the crank case? should be SC33 something...
uprated springs are a must if you haven't already got them
change the engine oil and use good oil (slightly wrong oil can cause issues as i found!)
check the friction plates are ok, nothing bent and no glazing on the frictions or metals
check that your clutch cable isn't too tight
Also, make sure the plates are in the right order, there is a slightly smaller plate that goes in first, as well as two stainless rings, flat one
first and a bevelled one with the bevel facing outwards
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baslow
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| posted on 14/5/15 at 12:04 PM |
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Hi Matt,
I think i'm running the 919 in that case... The engine number is SC28E-2113693
How will i know if they are up-rated springs? I'm assuming they will be more substantial than the regular but i don't have anything to
compare against.
I agree with the oil - everyone is saying about this. I've been told the best would be Maxima semi syn extra 15/50 - what do you use?
I'll check plates
Clutch cable has around 2mm of play in it. i have noticed that it has slight wearing on the plastic coating as the bracket isn't straight to the
clutch lever. New cable arrived today and adjusted bracket so perfect.
On the plates, so if i had eight, one would be smaller than than the rest. I've been told that one of the plates is small to aid a smoother
start when setting off on a bike. this isn't required when in a bec so remove smaller plate and replace with large so i would have eight of the
same. Do you know about this?
Cheers Barry
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