Dale
|
posted on 13/8/15 at 04:12 AM |
|
|
bodywork welding where there was lead
I am using the rear end/trunk from an mgb on the back of my car. Where it will be welded to a 1x1 inch tube across the bottom the metal from the
mgb has a seam that has been folded and welded, I cut out a 1 inch square so it could be placed flat against the tube and then weld a piece in over
it hole cut.
The problem is as i found when cutting it out the seam is filled with lead, I have melted most of the lead out of the area i am to weld but not sure
what to do as if i weld the patch over the spot the seam above it will be melting out. I may be able to mig the sides where there is no lead and
solder the part where the lead is but not sure.
Any Ideas on how to proced here.
Thanks
Dale
Thanks
Dale
my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road
|
|
|
r1_pete
|
posted on 13/8/15 at 06:33 AM |
|
|
You could try
Cold Front Weding Putty, it is supposed to absorb heat and prevent distortion etc. on thin panels.
If you weld in short bursts you may get away with minimal lead melting.
|
|
benchmark51
|
posted on 13/8/15 at 07:15 AM |
|
|
I had issues with lead when replacing rear wings on an E type. The lead was only a filler used before better, lighter and easier products were
around. I would remove it, do the neccesary work and substitute it using lightweight polyester filler. Years down the line and the E-type is fine.
|
|
Dale
|
posted on 13/8/15 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
Thanks
I have removed it up to a certain area and will likely have to remove about 6 inches of the lead above each weld. Propane tourch clears it out
reasonably fast (with the resperator on and good ventalation)
Dale
Thanks
Dale
my 14 and11 year old boys 22
and 19 now want to drive but have to be 25 before insurance will allow. Finally on the road
|
|
benchmark51
|
posted on 13/8/15 at 12:59 PM |
|
|
Your wise to take precautions with lead, it's nasty stuff. Can be absorbed through the skin too.
|
|