WARNING I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSSES OR INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS POST.


As this is locost builders there are some people left that love to tinker and make things.
This is to give those people that are interested in running a ford efi engine on a budget a little more info on how the Immobilizer can be used out of the donor car.

The key to using the the ecu is the Pat's immobilizer. You must get atleast one key with chip that is matched to the ecu.

You can not bypass it but you can use it.

Silver Top

The following pinouts are ONLY for the ecu with the code OWLS but with the info you can often work out other ecu's
Ford 104 pin Mondeo 1997 “owls” ecu plug.



Missing numbers have no connection and are not used on the owls ecu or the function has not been found. This is still under development.

Pin number -- colour -- function.

08 yellow/green -- Pats
13 white/blue--Data Link connector.
15 blue-- Data Link connector.
16 grey-- Data Link connector.
19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- ground
25 black/red -- ground separate earth @ ecu plug.
26 brown/blue -- switched earth coil 1 (pin 1 on coil).
27 black/yellow starter relay inhibiter
30 white/black -- octane plug
36 brown/blue -- MAF.
38 white/green -- Engine coolant temp sensor.
39 white violet -- Air temp sensor.
40 violet/black -- fuel pump monitor.
42 black/blue -- PATS Led.
48 white -- Tacho.
51 black/yellow -- ground.
52 brown/blue -- switched ground coil 2 (pin 3 on coil)
53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.
54 black/blue -- fuel pump switched earth.
55 orange/yellow Pin 10 c2513 KAM perm live.
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
70 black/white -- injector 1 switched earth.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v from power relay.
76 brown/white -- Cam position sensor.
77 black/yellow -- ground.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve.
85 white violet -- camshaft position sensor.
88 white/blue -- MAF.
89 white -- throttle position sensor.
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (tps)
91 brown -- sensor common.
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 control (earth).
95 black/orange -- injector 4 switched earth.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 switched earth.
97 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
103 black/yellow -- earth.

Black Top

Ford 104 pin Mondeo 1999 “owl5” Pcm plug. C401.

Pin number -- colour -- function.

13 white/blue--Data Link connector.
15 blue-- Data Link connector.
16 grey-- Data Link connector.
17 black/white -- to PIN 25 on c2513.
19 grey/orange -- to Pin 32 on c2513 Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- ground pin 9 on c2513.
25 black/red -- ground separate earth @ Pcm plug.
26 black/blue -- switched earth coil 1 (pin 1 on coil).
27 black/yellow -- pin 36 on square c2513 start inhibit relay circuit. ???
28 white/violet -- pin 13 on c2513 vehicle speed signal ( split to Pcm and dash).
31 white -- pin 7 on c2513 Power steering pressure switch. ???
36 brown/blue -- Pin 4 on square c2513 MAF return.
38 white/green -- coolant temp sensor (P1 mini timer)
39 white violet -- Air temp in MAF (P1 Maf plug)
40 violet/black -- Pin 19 c2513 fuel pump monitor.
41 violet/blue -- Pin 23 c2513 A/C clutch pressure switch.???
42 black/blue -- Pin 6 c2513 PATS Led. ???
43 white -- Pin 28 on c2513 sensor signal white. ???
47 black/green -- vacuum solenoid valve control (pin 2 small plug).
48 white -- Pin 30 on c2513 Tacho.
51 black/yellow -- Pin 9 on c2513 ground.
52 brown/blue -- switched ground coil 2 (pin 3 on coil)
53 white/green -- Pin 35 on c2513 s Pats RX signal.
54 black/blue -- Pin 5 on c2513 fuel pump switched earth.
55 orange/yellow Pin 10 c2513 KAM perm live.
58 white/blue -- Pin 2 on c2513 Vehicle speed Sensor.
59 white/green -- Alternator monitor circuit (Pin 2 on alt plug)
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
64 white -- Pin 39 c2513 clutch switch.???
65 white/green -- exhaust pressure transducer signal(large plug )
67 black/orange -- Pin 18 c2513EVAP canister vent control . ???
68 black/blue -- Pin 20 c2513 switched ground black/blue ???
69 black/yellow -- Pin 27 c2513 switched ground. ???
70 black/white -- injector 1 switched earth.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v from power relay.
76 brown/white -- Cam position sensor.
77 black/yellow -- Pin 9 c2513 earth.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve (pin 2).
85 white violet -- camshaft position sensor.
86 black/blue -- Pin 40 c2513. ???
88 white/blue -- MAF output.
89 white -- throttle position sensor (pin 2)
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (5v out from ecu)
91 brown -- Pin 38 c2513 + sensor common brown
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 control.
95 black/orange -- injector 4 switched earth.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 switched earth.
97 green/yellow -- Pin 1 c2513 switched 12v.
103 black/yellow -- Pin 9 c2513 earth.


“DLC” Diagnostic link connector.

The obd2 plug is found under the steering wheel. The plastic body should be unclipped from its holder and cut from the Mondeo with as much wire as can be pulled free.
The tape covering the wires can be removed.

You will be left with This.



The pin’s are numbered as below.



Not all pins are used.

Pin out’s of the Dlc plug, these go to your harness plug.

2) To pin 16 (grey) on ecu plug.
4) To earth (Chassis).
5) To earth (chassis).
7) To pin 13 (white/blue) on ecu plug.
10) To pin 15 (blue) on ecu plug.
16) To switched 12v fuse box.

Pats indicator. This is the led that is usually found in the clock of the Mondeo. Its job is to show you the status of the immobilizer. Ford’s Passive Anti- Theft- System ( PATS )

Just one Pin from the ecu plug, No 42 (black/blue). This is a switched earth. Take one Led, colour of your choice. You need one that is pre wired with a resistor. This is mounted in your dash. The negative or black wire is connected to pin 42 of the ecu plug and the red or positive wire is connected to the permanent live.



The Immobilizer.

The picture below shows the transceiver or aerial. This is found behind the steering cowl. The ring sit’s around the ignition switch and is held to the steering column with one screw.



This is the wiring plug.



It needs cutting from the car with as much wire as can be pulled free.

Retaining clip shown at the bottom.

There are four pins, They may be colour coded as above or they may be all black as shown in the photo. This depends on the age of the donor.



Pin 3 to pin 19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.

Pin 4 to pin 53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.

Pin 2 is the earth, to chassis.

Pin 1 is a switched 12v.

All four wires will need extending from the harness plug up to the steering column.

Fuel pump relay.

The Ecu, both controls and monitors the fuel pump via a relay.

There are two pins from the ecu plug.

Pin 54 (black/blue) from ecu plug, Fuel pump relay control switched earth.

Pin 40 (violet/black) from ecu plug, fuel pump monitor.



Starter motor inhibitor relay. This stops the engine from cranking as part of the immobilizer.

Pin 27 (black/yellow) ecu plug -- starter motor relay control (switched earth).





Hope this helps any one wanting to run a zetec without spending shed loads. Its no harder than making a loom for a MS ecu. There is no mapping and the ecu can be had for a few quid.

ps it would be nice if it was made a sticky.

[Edited on 26/3/13 by big_wasa]

Warren,
I have no idea of how much time and effort you had to do behind the scenes so that you could post this,
but I bet it was a LOT !

I would just like to say thank you for your efforts, and I am sure it will be widely used!

+1 for making this a sticky !

Kind regards
Jon



(Edited for stupid spelling error!)>

[Edited on 25/3/13 by slingshot2000]

sticky please

A question that is asked by many,. including me.

Sticky please

Adrian

If there is interest I will post up info on the black top pin outs and pin outs for the 42 pin plug ?

quote:

---

If there is interest I will post up info on the black top pin outs and pin outs for the 42 pin plug ?

---

I just want to add a massive thanks to Warren and the amount of time he has put into this. I have mine running this exact set up with help from Warren. He has always been willing to help with questions. Thanks mate!

(PS Warren I still have the bell housing for you, and will drop it over soon!)

I wonder how an efi setup using the standard bits would compare to bike carbs?

I fancy having a play with efi but don't want to shell out for a megasquirt or Omex.

Stu

quote:

---

Originally posted by whitestu
I wonder how an efi setup using the standard bits would compare to bike carbs?

I fancy having a play with efi but don't want to shell out for a megasquirt or Omex.

Stu

---

quote:

---

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by whitestu
I wonder how an efi setup using the standard bits would compare to bike carbs?

I fancy having a play with efi but don't want to shell out for a megasquirt or Omex.

Stu
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Great drive ability much better emissions, better fuel mpg and much cheaper than bike carbs.

My ecu and loom stands me less than an edis4 sells for on ebay

---

A 2.0 zetec on carbs with a good exhaust ect should be 165 ish The same breathing mods with the oem ecu has been shown to be around 150.

im in the middle of sorting manifold for bodies on standard ecu hope to be close to 160

quote:

---

ecu

im in the middle of sorting manifold for bodies on standard ecu hope to be close to 160

---

you need to run air flow meter

Greetings from Finland.
First i wanna thank you for that information.
And then the guestion, what should i do with the vss (vehicle speed sensor)
Someone told me that i cant use original ecu because of pats and vss.
Im putting 1.8 zetec from 97 Mondeo to 75 Taunus coupe, gearbox is gonna be t9.

Thanks and sorry for my bad english.

Language, I can only just about speak English so you are way way in front of me on that score

Yes lots of people will tell you, you can not use the ecu because of the pats but there you go.

I've run them with and with out the vss and can not tell a difference. One car I wired up passed iva emissions with no problems at all with out the vss signal. The reading I've done says the ecu uses the vss to cut fuel on over run ie coasting to prevent dumping un burnt fuel down the exhaust and into the cat.

Long term running with out the vss signal will show a code in the ecu. The early ecu doesn't have a MIL light or the over cautious Limp home mode newer ecu's have.

I have now gone back and connected the vss up using the sensor in my MT75 You can also get an adapter to run a Mondeo vss sensor on the Type 9 if you have the space in the tunnel.

Its a Hall affect sensor. voltage (5v~12v) earth and sense. The signal feeds both the ecu and the speedo in the dash.



cheers

[Edited on 23/4/13 by big_wasa]

Thanks for answering.
Maybe i try without vss first and get the adapter if it doesnt work.
1 guestion about the adapter, can i stil use original cable speedometer from Taunus with the adapter?
Id like my original gauges to work, heres pic of them.

gauges

If you do a search there are lots of ways to do it and the last of the T9 with efi came with vss and cable drives fitted.

One of many links on the subject.

Thanks! now i know its plausible to get both work.
Hope i get my zetec coupe running this summer...

Ive done loads

Watched some of your videos from youtube, looks very nice
Btw, my ecu pinout looks same than that 'owls' but it says 'noah' is it the same?

Thanks for that info Warren....
Much needed...

Like it says in the first post, the info is for the ecu that is named but the info can help you work out other ecu's but I havnt done every ecu.

quote:

---

Originally posted by taunus 78
Watched some of your videos from youtube, looks very nice
Btw, my ecu pinout looks same than that 'owls' but it says 'noah' is it the same?

---

i just acquired a mondeo 1.8 as a donor it cost me £150 so since it came so cheap i am looking to see if the original ECU is reusable. its a mission to see how cheap it can all be done and still be viable.
the inlet manifold is bulky and in the way of my steering column, so if i remove it and fit something slimmer what effect does it have on the management? is the Ford ECU reprogrammable to correct it? or is it best to keep the standard inlet manifold?

Then you have most of the parts you need for a Budget zetec install.

As with anything Cost reduces with the amount of stuff you can make and do for your self.

In theory the ecu can be mapped, flashed or chipped. The reality is if you intend to do this you may as well start with aftermarket management due to cost over gain.

The ecu handles small changes very well. You don't need the inlet manifold for it all to work as the ecu does not see a manifold it see's sensor signals. The key to having the ford ecu run well and cheap is you need to use the sensors.

There are lots of ways of getting around the plastic manifold.

I've run a very compact Log manifold that I made with the Tb stuck on the end. Do a search for Ginetta / Griffin zetec manifolds. Neither are available now. Gbs do a nice one But none of these had mountings for the standard Idle control valve and this really does make the car start and idle like a factory car no matter what the temperature.

There is a chap on here that ran his with bike throttle bodies. just a case of sticking a plenum on them so you can stick the maf on the front for the ecu to see load.

You could even use the up and over cast alloy manifold. The top sticks out of the bonnet a bit but can still look good.

Up shot is, the standard 136ps spec 2.0 engine with free flowing exhaust and inlet will give 150bhp at the fly' And the same engine with jenveys will give 165bhp so 15bhp will cost you £2.5k by the time its mapped. To get more from a zetec requires headwork and cams. (This has been dynode to back this up but not by me.)

Good look

Hey fantastic info, very helpful! Can the OWLS ECU be used on a blactop zetec or does it need a OWL5 ECU?

If you use the silver top sensors.

Great thankyou, I bought a OWLS ECU, transponder and key when I guess I should have got a OWL5. It gets very confusing when they name the ECU's with very similar names! I had a older DEEP ECU wired up but the engine will only backfire with no hint of starting, so hopefully I will have better luck with the OWLS. Are the silvertop sensors I need for my blacktop the MAF, HEGO, camshaft and crankshaft?

Maf and air temp along with tps are the most important. O2, crank and cam you will be fine with the black top bits. Deep desk and dewy would also run it fine if wired correctly with the silver top sensors.

Hi,

Good guide!
Do you know anything about the BASH ECU?
I assume the principle is the same?

2.0 Black top mondeo, think its a manual. Same principal as you say and may be identical to the owl5. Just compare the wiring if you have the loom.

Yeah its a blacktop from a 1999 mondeo.
I've got the whole car, just removed the engine and removing loom at the moment.
ill check it against your pinouts once it's out!

Well for anyone who's thinking of doing this, my "BASH" ecu seems to have exactly the same wiring on the plug as per the blacktop diagram, i'll start taking apart the wiring and see how it goes when i come to fit!
Cheers warren

No problems, drop me a pm if you need any further info to complete.

Cheers warren.
Just wanting to check i have everything i need....

ECU
Loom (as much as i can rip out of the car)
Ignition barrel thingy and the green connector
Fuel pump relay
Inhibitor Relay

Is there anything else i will need from the car to get the beast up and running?

Relays, just pull them all.

You want the obd2 plug from under the steering wheel.

The ignition barrel will fit a Sierra column.

I don't bother with the full loom unless you need the spare wire. From the ecu upto the 42 pin plug is all I bother with.

cool, i've already got that loom removed, so i don't need anything further back from that plug then?
well apart from the immobiliser ring thingy...

Hi I've been following this with interest, using a BASH ECU, fitting the Zetec into a Dutton.
I used the GBS sportscars plenum chamber so as not to have problems with the steering column.
I got the whole PATS thing sorted out using a key that matched the ECU itself.

It Runs!

But I have problem. It wont idle at all and it only seems to run cleanly above about 3000 rpm. Also here is quite alot of exhaust smoke/smell (enough to trigger my smoke alarm in the garage)

It's not the lack of Idle control valve I think because I'm carefully opening the throttle by hand, and it seems to go down to less than 4 cylinders, or at least very rough, as soon as you get to a lower engine speed.

I wondered if I could have fitted the flywheel one bolt position wrong,messing with the ignition timing, but I've read that this is impossible as the bolt holes don't line up any other way - but is that true?
I even wondered about cam timing because the engine came from a scrap yard and you never know why it got in there in the first place: could have been someone who messed up a cam belt change? - but that seems a bit unlikely really.
All the normal sensors such as MAF, Temperature, Lambda and TPS are connected (although its so rough that disconnecting them seems to make little difference)
I didn't connect the alternator, speed sensor or clutch sensor connections to the ECU though.


I got the OBD code reader working and it does show two errors
P0443 - which seems to be Idle air control fault - presumably because I havn't got an idle control valve, but I don't think it's that - see above
P1504 - Which seems to be Evap emission control valve for the fuel tank - presumably because I havn't got one
Those don't seem that relevant

I'm pretty much out of ideas now. Can anyone help please?

[Edited on 2/11/13 by spegru]

It's fixed! Just typical after asking for help....

I decided to investigate air leaks in the intake system - and importantly also to do this in daylight.

Took off the injector rail and started to remove the GBS plenum.

Then, Bingo! An unconnected tube for crank case breather in the back side plenum was spotted. I'd had the rail off previous day and not seen it (daylight is good!).
Then Bingo2! My son spotted an unused threaded boss also on the back of the plenum, presumably for intake temp or whatever when using non OEM ECUs
Two great big air leaks!

Blocked up both, put it back together and now it's running like a pussycat!

Moral of the story: Don't assume that such problems are necessarily because of something wrong in the ECU wiring!

Thanks so much to big_wasa and turnipfarmer for all this work.

To summarise, it all works using their wiring info and the BASH ECU.

It was a relief to get it going be honest. I had completely forgotten about those spare plenum connections because it was months ago that I fitted it and only a couple of weeks since I really started to try to fire it up.
I managed to use an original Ford throttle body (has to be focus, not mondeo, because the mounting flange is thinner) and I also managed to clean out the araldite stuff from throttle stop screw so that eventually I was able to unscrew it with an allen key so that I can use it as and old fashioned idle speed adjuster.
It also idles very smoothly, but then I also have the original mondeo 2l flywheel. I reckon you could actually connect up the idle control valve with a bit of jiggery pokery, maybe using that spare boss on the plenum. and a plate fixed to the back of the valve with a couple of tubes attached - but I don't think I'll bother right now.

FYI as well as a standard 2litre flywheel, I also used a standard mondeo clutch plate, but I modified the clutch release arm to make the release bearing come closer to the flywheel, as it's all a bit slimmer than the one from a sierra.
The only down side from the way I did it was that the GBS plenum chamber makes it difficult to fit a standard alternator, and so I had to buy the GBS alternator kit too - which probably brings the cost close to actual weber style throttle bodies. Still I definitely saved the cost of the ECU!
Another time I'd investigate plenum alternatives further.

thanks and good luck to all!

[Edited on 3/11/13 by spegru]

That's good.

I didn't get a chance to post over the weekend, busy busy.

Poor running with the standard set up. I always look for an air leak first.
The idle vale is easy to plumb in. Only thing is, the Maf must see the total air flow inc the idle bypass. There are some pics some where on how I did mine.

When in use on the road you can expect three or four fault codes plus another for no idle valve. none should give you any bother.

For anyone else doing this conversion, i also found this really useful in conjuction with Wasa's guide:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/47/viewthread.php?tid=183643

I'm guessing this is a question for Wasa....

I'm just at the stage of hooking up all the wiring loom to my car.
the ECU plug simply goes off to all the individual connectors and the big 42 pin connector.

From what i can tell, it's only the 42 pin connector that then goes anywhere.
I've still got this in my loom, so can i just hook up to the wires out of this connector to power the ECU and connect everything else i need?

Cheers,
Andy

[Edited on 10/3/14 by pekwah1]

Sorry after reading my last post, maybe not too clear.
What i'm trying to work out is exactly what wires do i need to connect with my existing loom?

I.e. lives/earths etc.

Great info and post Big Wasa!

I have a 1994 Japanese JDM factory built Westfield SEIW with the 1600 CVH with DCOE carbs and the distributor-less coil pack setup (Ford EDIS). I will be transplanting the CVH to a Zetec 2.0 Black Top that I have purchased. I will be transferring the flywheel, etc. It would be easy to just transfer the DCOE 40's with a new intake manifold, but I like the response and reliability of the stock Ford injection system, plus I really want to eventually run a turbo setup. I was convinced to go injection originally thinking that Westfield would have a conversion cross-over loom, but this is looking more and more like a major project. It seems that most guys, Westfield included, run multiple throttle body injection (Webcon, Alpha, Jenvy, etc), rather than the stock Ford system. Consequently, I am reconsidering running the DCOE setup due to cost and simplicity of the conversion. Obviously I am trying to do this on a tight budget, so aftermarket ECU's are out of the question... Yes it looks like I can run the stock Ford injection up to about 10psi with the stock ECU and aftermarket injectors. I am not looking to build a 300hp turbo monster, but I should be able to reliably hit 180-200hp with my mild turbo setup with the stock Ford injection system... assuming I can get the stock injection to work

How hard is it to transfer the Black Top Focus/Escort(Canada) or Mondeo ECU to my system? It looks like a major project, relays, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump control module, PATS (Depending on year), etc. I have heard that it is easier if you already have the EDIS system in place, but how much easier? Do I need the complete Black Top Focus/Escort(Canada) or Mondeo wiring loom, or just part of it. Can I make it fairly plug and play, or will I have to redo my complete loom. If so, I may be going the DCOE route.

Any help, instructions, or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Zach

I have a problem with my blacktop zetec on owl5 factory ecu, it is idling at about 3000 rpm! If I disconnect the battery the first start will idle normally (around 1000rpm) but any starts after that it is idling at 3000. Have checked for error codes with laptop but nothing obvious just (0443 1401 & 1409 codes). Have left car to idle for half an hour, after first start to see if that helps but no luck, car is only drivable at slow speed due to no brakes at the moment, not sure if the ecu needs to learn idle with a proper drive? It could just be I have mixed up some wires, but everything seems to be ok, have run out of ides???

Slow response: maybe you have it fixed by now.....

However are you using the factory Idle control valve? If not, then what are you using to control idle speed & what throttle bodies are you using?
I used the Focus Mk1 style to go with the GBS plenum chamber but I had to dig out the glue in the throttle position stop in order to adjust idle speed as I was not using the Idle control valve.

On the other hand if you are saying that it wont idle unless it's revved to 3000 then I'd have to diagnose an air leak in the plenum or inlet manifold

spegru

thanks great info here

im trying to use everything from a mondeo on my set up, including the alternator, is this possible ?

Yep but be aware the oem alternator has the smart charge system so don't use a standard lead acid battery as they don't like the higher voltage.

so you mean use a mondeo battery

had 3 complete engines sitting for a while now, l reg 1.6 ,r reg 2.0 and v reg 1.8, all with looms and keys etc for those that need them, still not sure if i should use the 1.8 or 2.0, not going in a locost, ive got plenty of space and already got the mondeo fuel tank mounted, trying to use all standard stuff for cheapness and reliability

Any ford battery, they use silver calcium to take the extra voltage.

sorry but its time for some more questions

now ive got my engine of choice mounted, (99 1.8,turns out its a blacktop) ive sussed out the alternator/waterpump/belt situation

ive been reading more into the wiring side,my ecu is a NOSE is this bad news ? i do also have a complete loom.ecu/key etc from a 2.0 with a OWLS ecu and also the same stuff from an L reg 1.8 with a BLOB ecu

i would rather use the NOSE one but if this is not possible and if i have read it right i can use the BLOB ecu with its loom and sensors

any help would be great

The nose ecu should be fine as long as it's a manual transmission and not an automatic. You may have to work out some of the wiring your self.
The blob ecu is pre pats so is a little easier to wire up but more primitive with no obd2, they where worth money being pre pats but I havnt looked in years.

Either way use black top sensors for the black top and so on.

Cheers

again thanks for the info

when i eventually work out blacktops from silvertops i will let you know

Just a note to say that my setup based on this and the BASH ECU recently had to be replaced because of ECU failure - due to the common 2 cylinder firing problem.
Nothing to do with this mod.
Circuit board inside ECU was visibly fried in the area of Pin 26 - which is one of the feeds to the coil pack. Possibly a design weakness in the ECU or possibly it was fried by a faulty coil pack

So of course I had to get a new one, with its Key, but I couldn't get a BASH like I had before, let alone a OWL5 version.
I took a chance and got one from a similar age Mondeo (MK 2) called NECK.
40 quid, with its key, so it was worth a try!

Worked straight away with no wiring changes!

I already had tried a new coil pack that made no difference - but the old one is going in the bin anyway - in case it was the real culprit for this failure.

Seems to me that any version of this EEC-V ECU, as long as it's the 4 rows of pins version, from a petrol car with the same number of cylinders and same capacity engine, there is a very good chance it will work just the same as this

[Edited on 16/3/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 16/3/15 by spegru]

right, im nearly there. cobbled together the wiring i thought i would need to get it going and messed about for ages

it is turning over fine but wont start, poured some fuel down it and turned it over and it burst into life for a few seconds

the pump seems to be priming but not pumping any other time, anyone any ideas ??

[Edited on 26/3/15 by scottie]

cancel that, the pump is pumping , i think, its only getting about 10 - 11 volts by the looks of it

the only way to get it to fire is still pour some petrol down it

One thing I forgot to do initially was to connect the ignition coil feed wire, since it doesn't actually come from the ECU at all. Centre pin of the Ford coil.
Do you have a spark? (maybe you are Dieseling)

yeah, sparking ok

fuel pipes now on the RIGHT way

big_thanks to big_wasa for all the info on this thread , i have done a few efi projects over the years but this info made this a lot easier. engine fired up first time, once i had the fuel pipes on the right way

not exactly a lowcost but its defo a lowbudget build , heres my project

Looks great and I bet one of them has never had a zetec under the bonnet before.

The how to turbo it on a budget is coming soon

Hi all,

I bought pekwah1's blacktop zetec powered striker recently.

It's running a BASH ecu which seems to have the same wiring as per the "owl5" blacktop ecu pinout at the start of the thread.

I was just wondering if anyone had ID'd ECU pin 17 when stripping the loom from a mondeo?

It's described as by big_wasa as: 17 black/white -- to PIN 25 on c2513.

Which seems to suggest it doesn't have a use?

At the moment I've got this wired to earth which is how it came from Andy but I'm having a play to see if this actually does anything. I ran out of time last night but I've been busy rewiring the car, getting things to work properly and removing some of the wiring which isn't needed where possible... The car looks a complete mess of wires as a result but with only a couple of days messing around with wiring I'm nearly ready to tidy it back up and start enjoying it a bit!

Any suggestions would be great!

I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched earth.

This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched earth.

This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.

---

Having had a good result with Big-Wasa's info using a mondeo black top i thought I'd have another go using a Black top engine from an early 2.0 Focus.
To my surprise the ECU has only 60 pins - code TEAR.
At first I thought t must be an EEC-IV similar to a Sierra. From the info on the web the EEC-IV pinout is completely wrong for this one.
Luckily when I got the plug off it I see it's actually labelled as EEC-V
On another thread thread. I see that Big Wasa referenced a pinout list from Shorty (I cant find the original post)

So I'm hopeful of using this but I notice there are differences from the 104 pin type in that it refers to an 'immobiliser control module' - which I don't have from this car, although I do have the key

Would this 'control module' actually be the same thing as the PATS antenna?

Advice appreciated

[Edited on 21/6/15 by spegru]

Yes pin 5 and pin 38 will be for the transceiver or pats ring or aerial call it what you will it's all just terminology. Shorty I think is on here but you will find his work and project over on the Haynes roadster forum.

Not all Foci are 60 pin. St and Rs are 104 pin.

I've just finished a 1.6 Zetec se Friday night. That was 60 pin as well. Also nearly as complicated as an St with pre and post cat O2 sensors and knock sensor.

Cheers

Thanks very much for that info. I'll need to find myself a PATS ring. I think I may have a spare one in the garage from a Mondeo (so it's expecting to work with a 104 pin ECU)
. I hope the wiring will work out the same. Then again it's only a coil of wire presumably?

Very neat video btw!

The transceiver will be fine from most fords of the same age but the black tops don't work with a silver top aerial and vice versa. There is a bit more too them than just a wire coil.

quote:

---

Originally posted by ravingfool

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
I can not go back and edit the original post as I find more info But that "should" be the Fast coolant fan relay control. Its a switched earth.

This should be left unconnected unless your switching a relay and from memory its not a standard relay.

---

Ok well that may make sense then.

Would it act as an earth when the ECU decides it is time to turn on the coolant fan? Or is it more complicated than that -you don't think it would run a standard relay?

---

I'm progressing with my 60 pin setup but not quite there yet - not helped by the fact that my wiring harness came separately fro the engine so I had to work out how to connect it all up. I even found a PATS key detector ring in a box in the garage (yes more than a coil of wire, it's got some chips in)
My first power on test resulted in the PATS LED coming on permanently but dimly. My bluetooth OBD dongle (which looks just like the one in the video) appeared not to work at all but later on showed a low current error had been stored when it was connected to another car, so it does look like there is a wiring fault

I am suspicious of one connector with a single thick grey wire that I can't work out what it is. It comes out of the focus harness near the coil. I am tempted to connect it to 12v....

I have been looking for Shorty but cant find anything relevant on here and am not sure if I am looking at the right Haynes forum as I cant find him so far.

Help appreciated as always.......

[Edited on 8/7/15 by spegru]

Hi,

Most of Shorty's work was over on the Haynes roadster site. The site had problems and a lot of info was lost I am not sure if this was part of it.

The grey box is a noise suppressor. It's a 20um capacitor and yes it's just connected to the same 12v supply as the centre pin of the coil pack.

Try this.


"Shorty". Listed the 60 pin black top pin outs.

Enjoy



Pin No-Colour-Function
1-Red-Battery
2--
3-White/blue-Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
4-White/purple-Audio/cruise/trip
5-White/green-Immobiliser control module
6-White/red-Air con
7-White/purple-Cylinder head temp (CHT)
8-Green/black-Fuel pump relay
9-Purple/blue-Mass air flow (MAF)
10-Green/yellow-Air con
11--
12-Black/white-Injector 1
13-Black/blue-Engine coolant blower motor relay 1
14-Black/orange-Injector 4
15-Black/yellow-Injector 2
16-Black/yellow-Earth
17-Orange/black-Data link connector
18-Blue/black-Data link connector
19-Grey/orange-Data link connector
20-Black-Earth
21-Black/yellow-Idle air control (IAC)
22-Black/blue-Evaporative emissions (EVAP)
23--
24-White/purple-Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
25-White/purple-Intake air temp (IAT)
26-Yellow-Throttle position (TP)
27--
28-White-Power steering pressure(PSP)
29--
30-Brown/white-Camshaft position sensor (CMP)
31-Black/white-Engine coolant blower motor relay 2 AC
32-Black/red-Starter motor relay
33-Black/yellow-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)1
34-Black/blue-Injector 3
35--
36--
37-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
38-Grey/orange-Immobiliser control module
39-Black/orange-Immobiliser LED
40-Black/yellow-Earth
41-Blue-Alternator
42--
43-White-Clutch pedal position (CPP)
44-White-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)1
45-Grey-Alternator
46-Brown-CPP, CHT, HO2S, IAT, TP
47-White-Throttle position sensor (TP)
48-White/red-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)2
49--
50-White/blue-Mass air flow (MAF)
51-Black/blue-Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S)2
52-Black/green-Ignition aux circuits relay
53-Black/blue-Fuel pump relay
54-Black/yellow-AC compressor clutch relay
55-Brown/red-Crankshaft position (CKP)
56-White/red-Crankshaft position (CKP)
57-Green/yellow-Engine control relay
58-Black/red-Ignition coil
59-Black green-Ignition coil
60-Black/yellow-Earth

Thanks. It would be a pity if Shorty's work has been lost. I am looking in http://www.haynes.co.uk/forum btw...
So all I have is that pinout that you posted before

I have that suppressor on the 104 pin setup but the connector is quite different having fairly thin wire in a 2 pin plug that only has one wire.
The wire in the 60 pin setup concerned is grey and is in a big single connector.
I am suspicious that it should be connected to 12v rather than a suppressor, as it's so thick - similar to the main green/blue supply wires

By the way that pinout info does not seem to include a rev counter?

I finally found Shorty's posts here http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12571&page=2
That forum is certainly not all it might be - search doesn't seem to work at all, and I cant register either!

So it look like shorty was trying to do exactly the same as me: ID-ing the wires from the engine to car connector.

Some success with the 60 pin setup.- after correcting a loose earth (the main problem) and the permanent 12v live.
The bluetooth OBD connector is now reporting to my phone properly (BTW the android phone app I use for this is called Torque) and I can now see the throttle opening / closing as well as temperature. So the ECU seems to work - ish. I just need to get the engine to turn over for which I'll need a starter motor and to modify the sump so that I can fit one in this RWD type 9 configuration! Luckily I already have a modified sump with various bits cut off the alloy half it to suit, from the previous project that eventually acquired a shallow sump from Raceline.
That grey wire appears to go straight through to the engine to car connector from the single pin connector. Not sure why it is there at all really if all it does is go to a supressor on the engine that isnt actually connected to it?
I still need to find the connection to the Rev counter. Maybe it's on the connector block behind the Focus dash like the OBD was
If/when I get this sorted I'll post up the details!

back to sump swapping.....

[Edited on 9/7/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 9/7/15 by spegru]

Heavy grey wire sounds like the starter solenoid wire. Comes from the starter inhibit relay. Got a picture ?

Tacho is often white. Have a look for a white wire on an above number with nothing next to it. Make sure there isn't more than one.

Cheers

[Edited on 9/7/15 by big_wasa]

Yes that heavy grey could be for the starter. It's in about the right place. But I dont actually have one at present and when the T9/RWD one I ordered this evening arrives of course it will be different to the original focus one. This actually makes me wonder if there is a supressor on the focus engine at all. It was missing when I got the engine but then again I had to reclaim the coil that had been taken off too so it could have gone missing.
How do you post pictures on this site?

Photos can be hosted on here in your archive or anywhere like photo bucket then putting in the link.

Not all models had the suppressor. They twisted the crank and cam sensor leads all the way back to the Ecu to cancel noise. A suppressor plug is a mini timer housing like the crank sensor and it fits next to the coil pack. If it's not there don't worry about it.

The ecu will immobilise the starter via a relay. Your new starter won't have the other half of that plug but you can find one or you can do away with that feature.

I've now got my zetec 2.0 running on the 60 pin eec-v ecu (code TEAR)!
Now trying to finish it all off with the tacho
I notice that your new thread for the 1.6 zetec se shows pin 4 for tacho whereas it's for trip etc here.
Was that an error in the shorty info? All the other info seems to match
I've tried it already but no working tacho so far. However it could be some other problem.
The wire colour is white purple

I worked the se for a mate, nothing to do with Shorty. The engine was in a Fiesta.

Edit tachometer is usually white but latter models didn't have an out put as it was done by can-bus.

White and violet should be the road speed signal input.

[Edited on 28/9/15 by big_wasa]

Seems a bit odd for that pin to be the only one that's different - although I note that some of the wiring colours are different between 60 pin 1.6 Zetec SE and 2.0 Black Top Zetec. This is an EEC-V btw

Shorty's info says: 4-White/purple-Audio/cruise/trip - which is a bit of an odd combo ....
I wish I could send him a message but I cant register on the haynes site

I don't think there is any Can bus on Zetec engines?
I'll have to attach a scope or a known working tacho to to pin 4

If all else fails I guess I can connect it to the coil like in the old days. Lucky it's an after market tacho so I could use 8 cylinder mode - or is that ok anyway if connected only on one side of the coil?... to get over the wasted spark calibration issue

[Edited on 30/9/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 30/9/15 by spegru]is

[Edited on 30/9/15 by spegru]

Shorty was on here as well.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/members/Shorty/

If you pm me the ecu name, the car it was from and the year you think it is I will have a dig about over the weekend. Pm me Sunday tea time if I forget.

It's a really busy time at the moment as I finish one job tomorrow and start at the new place Friday and I am picking another engine up Saturday.

Cheers

[Edited on 30/9/15 by big_wasa]

Picking another engine up this weekend eh? Me n all! May I ask what is is?? Mines another v8!

Snap....

if we are playing top trumps mine is 4.0 L

what's yours

An ancient 3.5!

Its going on a stand for a static display.

Mate of mine is looking for a big air cooled 2 stroke single for a start up display then 5 minutes late a v8 popped up and the penny dropped!

I've already made the stand. ...

Got any pics anywhere before we bung this thread up??

Stand ? NO its buried behind a garage full of engines

The latest edition after a 225 mile round trip

Wow, that's some fan! Looking like the one I was getting is not going to happen, seller is humming and harring over collecting for some reason...

I found a good wiring diagram for early focus that includes both 104 and 60 pin info

ftp://ftp.idm.ru/pub/ffclub/2003_5_Focus_WD.pdf

It's a huge document 816 pages. But luckily as it's a PDF you can search for text blocks such as "EEC V (60"

On page 268 it looks like all the instruments are powered from an ECU which may or may not be CANBUS but is definitely OBD and connected to the ECU via another processor.
So no tacho output as such. I have the option of plumbing into the coil feed (I suspect I'll need to select the 8 cylinder setting on after market the tacho) or not having one at all which would be ok on this car.

I also now realise I am going to have problems with the no charge warning light and fuel guage since those are also from the focus complete with harness
Those might be doable by hacking into the fuel tank wires and some jiggery pokery with one of the Alternator wires that I havn't figured out yet
On the other hand I could try to get hold of a focus instrument pack.....

OK So I am nearly finished with this. It looks like the 60pin EEC-V is slightly newer (in that it uses OBD to connect to instruments) than the 104 pin and yet it also seems that the one fitted to an early focus is not the same as the one that BigWasa was looking at for the Mojo and the 1.6 Sigma engine......

Anyway it's all running (thanks to info provided by Big Wasa & Shorty) and I now even have most of the instruments working by dint of swapping over to a Focus instrument pack. In my Sierra based Eagle RV I was able to fit the Focus pack into the Sierra dashboard buy trimming a bit off each end (the pointy corners on the focus instrument pack). Looks pretty good (wish I could post photos here) although I need to blank off the top corners of the square dash pod

Since I also used a focus fuel tank as well as the main engine harness (that also goes to the tank at the back) the fuel pump/ fuel level sensor seem to work fine as does the temp gauge (I shan't need my added on Thermostat housing temp sensor any more). Tacho also works and Alternator warning light also functions. I could even connect the PATS led to a dash light instead of having it separate. I tried to connect the Focus fuel level sensor to the Sierra Fuel guage since it's wired in separately, but without success - which is what led me to swap the instruments over, since almost nothing worked and anyway they look fairly rubbish with a huge Seatbelts warning in the centre and no rev counter. Warning lights such as indicators main beam and instrument lighting are all connected separately so it was quite easy to splice those in.

The only thing not working is the speedo, but since I also have a bluetooth OBD connection and the Torque Android OBD app on my phone I can see that it is actually providing a reading, albeit probably rather low. So maybe the second hand Instrument pack is faulty (there's no direct connection between the sensor and the speedo - it's all done by OBD). Easiest way to find that might be to simply get another dash pod as they're cheap enough. The Under reading is another matter. Not sure if it's because the pulses per mile are different between Sierra/Granada Type 9 and Focus, or because the 205/15 wheels I've got are rather larger than the focus originals. I am aware you can get electronic speedo correctors so I'll have to investigate that.

Of course I've also got a bunch of warning lights showing for things like ABS and Airbags that I havn't got. Not sure whether I need to fix the relevant wires to 12v or earth or whether to simply bung up the LED light behind the dash with blutak or whatever.

By the way I highly recommend the wiring Diagram that I posted a link to recently. It's a bit daunting but actually very good once you get used to it. It covers both 104 pin and 60pin EEC-V variants as used on the early Focus.

thanks for all the help
Regards
Spegru

PS It's also possible that I've got Cruise control capability etc if I connect a few more wires - but not sure I can be bothered....

The speedo does take a signal from the vss. It would come via the speed control modual.

The rest is as you say sent by the buss. In fact the St170 has an oil pressure and temperature gage but no sensors. The ecu interprets what it thinks it should be based on other info and sends it down the bus.

Interesting thanks. So by looking at the enormous wiring doc that I previously linked to, I see there is a circuit called 8-GH9 on a white blue wire present at the central junction box (presumably for connection to trip computer etc), also at the instruments connector, which is currently not connected and pin 35 on the 60 pin ecu. White/blue is also the code for the speed sensor.
I wonder what will happen if I connect them together......

[Edited on 24/11/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 24/11/15 by spegru]

I've just been onto this, studying the wiring diagram for links between the Instrument pack and either the speed control or trip computer

So one confusion was that the connector to the trip computer appears to be the same as the one for the instrument pack, which is what misled me into thinking that there was a white/blue VSS wire on the instruments. There isn't. That wire in fact goes to the trip computer and the trip computer is then connected to the Instruments.

I'm hoping there is a VSS feed through from either the speed control or the trip computer.
It seems to me more likely that any such feed goes via trip computer connection than speed control as I'm guessing the speed control connection would actually be a light indicating cruise control active??

To my surprise where the instrument connector should have had a white/black connection to speed control there was no pin in the connector (the plug didn't come from the same car but I don't think that's relevant). I tried connecting the relevant pin directly to the white/blue wire coming from the ECU and when that didnt work also to the Yellow wire that is meant to connect to the trip computer - but no speedo action so far.

I did wonder if the connection should be via obd rather than simple pulses, but then again there is no sign of a twisted pair of wires on that connection as there is for tacho etc from the ECU so I think probably just pulses are what's needed.
I probably just need to make sure all my connections are actually connected.....

Are you sure that speed VSS is actually connected to the speedo indirectly and not via obd? (it could simply be a faulty speedo....?)

[Edited on 24/11/15 by spegru]

My Black Top has a set of R1 carbs with a good exhaust system and I can confirm it is making 165 on the rollers with no additional work.....I need more power.....

Hi Big Wasa, I am starting to pull my hair out on this Speedometer problem
I have a full set of instruments on this 60pin EEC-V aside from just that one thing - having spliced in a Focus instrument pack

I have found a very healthy speed sensitive square wave coming out of Pin 4 on the 60pin ECU (I have a scope) and from the wiring diagram it appears to be distributed to various things such as Radio (speed related volume control) and even HID headlamps (alignment/levelling adjustment at high speed I suppose)

I dont have a speed control module (which I suppose this is the same thing as Cruise Control) module, but I imagine this is only an option. Presumambly this why pin 4 was missing on my instrument connector and no sign of the connections on my donor wiring harness. Nevertheless I managed to connect it to the square wave output - and achieved a pulsing Cruise Control On warning lamp - not quite what I wanted!
I've got a Trip computer (even though that is also only an option I think) and wired that up in case it helped. It works but still no speedo! I even tried another instrument pack with the same result
Meanwhile the Torque App on my phone is perfectly happy to display speed via my bluetooth adaptor but of course that doesnt record milage/legal requirements

Google is no good as it's awash with people complaining about a very common fault related to the VSS sensor on a Focus gearbox - it's not that!

I just need info about how to wire up the dash to the VSS output from the ECU without the (presumed optional) Speed Control.
I'm guessing there is a pulse pass through somewhere

Please can you help? - I'm running out of ideas.

thanks

[Edited on 1/12/15 by spegru]

For a 98~2005 60 pin eecv ecu

I've got pin 4 as audio and cruise (telemetric) like you but pin 3 is vss input.


What have you got on pin 3 ?

[Edited on 1/12/15 by big_wasa]

Thanks for answering BW

Pin 3 is the input to the ECU from the VSS itself as far as I understand it. I suppose that is where I'm getting a speed reading from on my Android Torque/Bluetooth OBD combo.
I havn't got a measurement to hand but I can go get one in a little while if I can get my PC/Scope working again

Pin 4 seems to be an output and it does show a nice fat speed related square wave that gets shorter/faster the fast you go.
It's labelled Audio/Cruise/Trip which is an odd combo. I think it's there as a kind of speed broadcast that's picked up by several items including HID headlamp levelling and Audio that do adjustments related to speed so maybe that's logical. I didnt do very accurate measurements but my scope trace seems to show an amplitude of 15v (maybe 12 really?) and (roughly) period of ~100ms @~20mph, reducing to ~50 @~30mph. Amplitude doesn't change

So the ECU is providing a road speed output that goes to various places - but so far not the speedo itself!

See if this pic link works (I've never does photos on this site before)
Scope Screenshots

Vss should be 0~9v

I will have a look and see what else I can find.

I've only done one mondeo dash and that just connected to the vss along with the ecu.

Ok I am coming around to your way of thinking that the vss is also sent by the bus. Looking at the dash wiring I cant see a vss input but you can see two pins from the dlc. I will be honest I thought the refresh rate would be to low for a real time display.

from dlc to dash

dash pins
13) grey/purple

26)blue/white

Thanks BW. If you are not certain that the Speed Control unit is involved then it would seem most likely that the speed is sent on the bus with everything else. But unfortunately on mine it doesn't work even though everything else does (incl Tacho, Temp & Fuel) and that's with 2 different dashes. It seems unlikely (although not impossible) that both are faulty. Then again, the Trip computer is connected directly to Pin 4 . Why? Maybe the Trip doesn't speak OBD?

Another thought is about the Pin35 white/blue wire that goes from Trip to ECU because blue/white is also the colour of the VSS sensor output. Coincidence?

So the 4 possible reasons I can imagine for my problem are:
1) Speedo signal is sent on the OBD bus - and I've got 2 faulty dash units
2) Some other unit in the car translates from the Pin 4 VSS trip/audio/headlamp levelling VSS 'broadcast' into another bus-like thing that I've not connected properly eg speed control
3) There is a VSS pass through from Pin 4 through via another unit somewhere that I've not connected properly.
4) There is something wrong with the VSS even though I can see it clearly on the Pin 4 broadcast. I could just about believe that depending on how the ECU is constructed internally. I was surprised to see what looked like 15v on my trace.....

What I need is an actual Ford Focus to mess about with!
Maybe I'll also try to get a VSS trace direct from pin 3

steve/spegru

[Edited on 1/12/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 1/12/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 1/12/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 1/12/15 by spegru]

After a quick trundle around with my PC/Scope I've added some more VSS traces to my flickr page
Scope Shots

The new ones are direct from the VSS (ECU PIN3). I'm not sure what they are supposed to look like
All new ones (Nos 4 -11) taken over about 10 mins - the odd thing is they change shape with the later ones being more square

Do these look healthy?

Well I've now changed the ECU in case it was faulty.
I knew it was a long shot
Guess what - it didnt make any difference - still no speedo.
So that's 2 ECUs and 2 speedos.
I shall try another speedo as they're fairly cheap on ebay but it's looking more like a wiring problem to be honest

An update: I just managed to borrow a Mk1 Focus and plugged in a spare dash pod into the obd port via a flying lead to the plug on the back.
The speedometer works - and that's without any wires connected other than power and OBD!
So that's proved 100% that the speedo is connected via OBD

So why the heck doesn't it work in my car when everything else on the dash does? VSS Speed sensor compatibility (this is a Ford Sierra box)? - but I get a speed reading via my Torque/Bluetooth connection. Just now I even checked it wasn't getting it from GPS

So near and yet so far......

I will have to have a think.

If you think these get the grey material working you should see a Volvo.

One other thing I noticed is that the speed reading I get from Torque/OBD Bluetooth is very low. About 15 km/h (that's what it reads in) at what visually is around 30 mph
Not that surprising I guess as the gearbox sensors are different and likely do different turns per mile. However what that means is that I'll be needing a speedo corrector of some sort. There are a couple of different types I have heard of. However what that also means is that I'll also be electronically reconditioning the VSS speedo pulse......

A bit of a breakthrough:
I noticed that the trip odometer has been changing albeit very slowly such that I wasn't even sure it was changing till this evening.....
So I wondered whether, considering the roughly 50% under reading at present - had I actually been going fast enough for the speedo to register? (local roads only so far)
So I went a bit faster.....and the Speedo started to work!

So it's a calibration issue. Of course speedos often don't register at very low speeds either. The highest I'd reached was an (indicated on my Torque app) 15km/h, or around 9.5mph. I got it up to about 20km/h indicated (actually around 40mph) and the dash speedo started to register

So nothing fundamental then - phew!

So either my Sierra VSS is faulty or it just behaves quite differently different from a Focus one in terms of pulses per mile
What I need to know now is understand the difference between a Sierra VSS and one from a Focus in terms of pulses per mile/km - whatever - and do the necessary conversion

Does any one know the pulses per mile figures for Focus and Sierra VSS?

[Edited on 11/12/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 11/12/15 by spegru]

[Edited on 11/12/15 by spegru]

They are different between foci depending on gear box. But I don't know by how much.


There must be some one clever enough to do a a budget speed healer.

Of course 15km/h vs 30mph which is actually an under reading of about 70%!

According to Burton Power, the Type 9 VSS does 8 pulses per revolution (presumably of the gearbox output shaft).
My info (from the passion ford people) is that the focus VSS does 40 pulses per wheel revolution.

I'm guessing I need to multiply the pulses per gearbox revolution by the Diff ratio to get the per wheel rev figure. Not sure what my diff ratio is to be honest but assuming it's about 3.6 that would take the figure to ~28.8

So that would provide an inaccuracy of 28.8/40= 72% - which is about what I've seen!

I need a speedo healer.....

8 pulses per revolution will be of the speedo sensor. There is gearing from the gearbox output shaft to the speedo drive that you have to allow for.

Thanks DW. I bet you are correct about that. I don't really know what the pulse per rev figure for the built in vss is it might be different so I'm getting an external one just to try, but I suspect it will be the same. I have also discovered that there are different worm drives for the gbox but I bet that won't be enough for my purpose where I need to speed up the thing by more than double. There could be an electronic speedo healer fix for that although those are pretty expensive........

installation is almost complete on my Focus engine project....
i will produce some wiring diagrams to aid those who follow me.
i have a set of wiring pin outs for the 60 pin ECU, and all the PATS and OBD connections, now its all been stripped down i can see how easy it would have been to install. it turns out that the engine electrics on the focus are very easy to adapt, the 16 pin connection to the fuse box just needs cutting away and of them only 11 pins are used. the under dash connector needs keeping but the wires will be cut off.
i will give a full colour code wiring and pin out.

HOWEVER.......not being as fully upto date with ECU wiring as i could be, a question...
will the ECU need to see 2 Lambda sensors or will just one do?
The Focus OBD plug has a "K" line but i dont know where it was connected to (it went to the plug box where the alarm module pluged in).....if it was connected at all. all the other OBD connections are straight forward and are made. but what do i do with the "K" line? (pin 7 on the OBD plug.)

[Edited on 11/4/16 by snowy2]

I've only got one lambda and no Cat on mine. Seems to run fine but may be heavy on fuel (not sure as my speedo is still way out and fuel guage may not be working properly either)

This is what I have so far... I will do a more comprehensive description later
..Dave. ..

The k line is a bi directional communication that is used to talk to other moduals. Out of the donor there are no other moduals so I have removed the pin from the plug.

With two O2 sensors the first is used for fuelling when in closed loop. Ie mid throttle once fully warmed up. The second is to report to the ecu on the function of the Catalytic converter. It will give codes with out it.

My suspicion was right the first lambda is needed the second is redundant if no cat fitted.....I can live with some fault codes :-)
I thought the k line was body module related.....good to see my guess was right.
again not needed.

[Edited on 13/4/16 by snowy2]

My Focus ecu has an extra wire not listed by the 60 pin diagram listed before....all of the other wires were the same colours. it went to the BCM (body control module) under the dash. it had the same colour as the VSS wire. i assumed that it was the speed signal for the dash....dont know if it helps you.

Could be a speed signal for cruse control or traction control ?

thats a real possibility. my car had the inlet manifold removed complete because it had cruise control with it before i bought it from the breakers.

Would the info in this thread apply to the focus St170? I'm guessing the answer is no as nobody has mentioned it lol.

quote:

---

Originally posted by classictinker
Would the info in this thread apply to the focus St170? I'm guessing the answer is no as nobody has mentioned it lol.

---

You mean like this thread

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=190440

My working diagrams for the Focus 60 pin ECU......I used the pin out list earlier in this post.

Key...
red = 12v battery.
green = 12v ignition switched.
blue = connection to ECU
Orange = connection to components.

The cooling relay has a anti spiking diode built in (the green relay) this protects the ECU from reverse voltage spikes when the fan shuts down...

The second relay down has an orange connection. ....it connects to the ignition switch "run" position. .

Thanks for the cooling fan relay info I've never got as far as looking into this. I've always run a direct switch from the rad or top hose. Have you had if upto temperature and checked the operation.



[Edited on 6/6/16 by big_wasa]

Not yet....just built an exhaust for it (pepper performance 4-1 manifold...
as yet no coolant in system but next week end I hope.

My project ......had to make the exhaust so I can finalise the cooling plumbing. ...ignition "on" and cooling relay next to battery...all other fuses and relays on other side of engine bay.

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
WARNING I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSSES OR INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS POST.


As this is locost builders there are some people left that love to tinker and make things.
This is to give those people that are interested in running a ford efi engine on a budget a little more info on how the Immobilizer can be used out of the donor car.

The key to using the the ecu is the Pat's immobilizer. You must get atleast one key with chip that is matched to the ecu.

You can not bypass it but you can use it.

Silver Top

The following pinouts are ONLY for the ecu with the code OWLS but with the info you can often work out other ecu's
Ford 104 pin Mondeo 1997 “owls” ecu plug.



Missing numbers have no connection and are not used on the owls ecu or the function has not been found. This is still under development.

Pin number -- colour -- function.

08 yellow/green -- Pats
13 white/blue--Data Link connector.
15 blue-- Data Link connector.
16 grey-- Data Link connector.
19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- ground
25 black/red -- ground separate earth @ ecu plug.
26 brown/blue -- switched earth coil 1 (pin 1 on coil).
27 black/yellow starter relay inhibiter
30 white/black -- octane plug
36 brown/blue -- MAF.
38 white/green -- Engine coolant temp sensor.
39 white violet -- Air temp sensor.
40 violet/black -- fuel pump monitor.
42 black/blue -- PATS Led.
48 white -- Tacho.
51 black/yellow -- ground.
52 brown/blue -- switched ground coil 2 (pin 3 on coil)
53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.
54 black/blue -- fuel pump switched earth.
55 orange/yellow Pin 10 c2513 KAM perm live.
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
70 black/white -- injector 1 switched earth.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v from power relay.
76 brown/white -- Cam position sensor.
77 black/yellow -- ground.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve.
85 white violet -- camshaft position sensor.
88 white/blue -- MAF.
89 white -- throttle position sensor.
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (tps)
91 brown -- sensor common.
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 control (earth).
95 black/orange -- injector 4 switched earth.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 switched earth.
97 green/yellow -- switched 12v.
103 black/yellow -- earth.

Black Top

Ford 104 pin Mondeo 1999 “owl5” Pcm plug. C401.

Pin number -- colour -- function.

13 white/blue--Data Link connector.
15 blue-- Data Link connector.
16 grey-- Data Link connector.
17 black/white -- to PIN 25 on c2513.
19 grey/orange -- to Pin 32 on c2513 Pats TX signal.
20 black/blue -- Injector 3 switched earth.
21 white/red -- crankshaft position sensor +.
22 brown/rd --crankshaft position sensor -.
24 black/yellow -- ground pin 9 on c2513.
25 black/red -- ground separate earth @ Pcm plug.
26 black/blue -- switched earth coil 1 (pin 1 on coil).
27 black/yellow -- pin 36 on square c2513 start inhibit relay circuit. ???
28 white/violet -- pin 13 on c2513 vehicle speed signal ( split to Pcm and dash).
31 white -- pin 7 on c2513 Power steering pressure switch. ???
36 brown/blue -- Pin 4 on square c2513 MAF return.
38 white/green -- coolant temp sensor (P1 mini timer)
39 white violet -- Air temp in MAF (P1 Maf plug)
40 violet/black -- Pin 19 c2513 fuel pump monitor.
41 violet/blue -- Pin 23 c2513 A/C clutch pressure switch.???
42 black/blue -- Pin 6 c2513 PATS Led. ???
43 white -- Pin 28 on c2513 sensor signal white. ???
47 black/green -- vacuum solenoid valve control (pin 2 small plug).
48 white -- Pin 30 on c2513 Tacho.
51 black/yellow -- Pin 9 on c2513 ground.
52 brown/blue -- switched ground coil 2 (pin 3 on coil)
53 white/green -- Pin 35 on c2513 s Pats RX signal.
54 black/blue -- Pin 5 on c2513 fuel pump switched earth.
55 orange/yellow Pin 10 c2513 KAM perm live.
58 white/blue -- Pin 2 on c2513 Vehicle speed Sensor.
59 white/green -- Alternator monitor circuit (Pin 2 on alt plug)
60 white -- HO2S 1 signal
64 white -- Pin 39 c2513 clutch switch.???
65 white/green -- exhaust pressure transducer signal(large plug )
67 black/orange -- Pin 18 c2513EVAP canister vent control . ???
68 black/blue -- Pin 20 c2513 switched ground black/blue ???
69 black/yellow -- Pin 27 c2513 switched ground. ???
70 black/white -- injector 1 switched earth.
71 green/yellow -- switched 12v from power relay.
76 brown/white -- Cam position sensor.
77 black/yellow -- Pin 9 c2513 earth.
83 green/yellow -- idle air control valve (pin 2).
85 white violet -- camshaft position sensor.
86 black/blue -- Pin 40 c2513. ???
88 white/blue -- MAF output.
89 white -- throttle position sensor (pin 2)
90 yellow -- 5v Voltage Reference (5v out from ecu)
91 brown -- Pin 38 c2513 + sensor common brown
93 black/yellow -- HO2S 1 control.
95 black/orange -- injector 4 switched earth.
96 black/yellow -- injector 2 switched earth.
97 green/yellow -- Pin 1 c2513 switched 12v.
103 black/yellow -- Pin 9 c2513 earth.


“DLC” Diagnostic link connector.

The obd2 plug is found under the steering wheel. The plastic body should be unclipped from its holder and cut from the Mondeo with as much wire as can be pulled free.
The tape covering the wires can be removed.

You will be left with This.



The pin’s are numbered as below.



Not all pins are used.

Pin out’s of the Dlc plug, these go to your harness plug.

2) To pin 16 (grey) on ecu plug.
4) To earth (Chassis).
5) To earth (chassis).
7) To pin 13 (white/blue) on ecu plug.
10) To pin 15 (blue) on ecu plug.
16) To switched 12v fuse box.

Pats indicator. This is the led that is usually found in the clock of the Mondeo. Its job is to show you the status of the immobilizer. Ford’s Passive Anti- Theft- System ( PATS )

Just one Pin from the ecu plug, No 42 (black/blue). This is a switched earth. Take one Led, colour of your choice. You need one that is pre wired with a resistor. This is mounted in your dash. The negative or black wire is connected to pin 42 of the ecu plug and the red or positive wire is connected to the permanent live.



The Immobilizer.

The picture below shows the transceiver or aerial. This is found behind the steering cowl. The ring sit’s around the ignition switch and is held to the steering column with one screw.



This is the wiring plug.



It needs cutting from the car with as much wire as can be pulled free.

Retaining clip shown at the bottom.

There are four pins, They may be colour coded as above or they may be all black as shown in the photo. This depends on the age of the donor.



Pin 3 to pin 19 grey/orange -- Pats TX signal.

Pin 4 to pin 53 white/green -- Pats RX signal.

Pin 2 is the earth, to chassis.

Pin 1 is a switched 12v.

All four wires will need extending from the harness plug up to the steering column.

Fuel pump relay.

The Ecu, both controls and monitors the fuel pump via a relay.

There are two pins from the ecu plug.

Pin 54 (black/blue) from ecu plug, Fuel pump relay control switched earth.

Pin 40 (violet/black) from ecu plug, fuel pump monitor.



Starter motor inhibitor relay. This stops the engine from cranking as part of the immobilizer.

Pin 27 (black/yellow) ecu plug -- starter motor relay control (switched earth).





Hope this helps any one wanting to run a zetec without spending shed loads. Its no harder than making a loom for a MS ecu. There is no mapping and the ecu can be had for a few quid.

ps it would be nice if it was made a sticky.

[Edited on 26/3/13 by big_wasa]

---

If you have the wiring loom your best bet is to compare it to my notes.

It's a good bet if it's from a car with a manual gearbox.

[Edited on 5/10/16 by big_wasa]

Just a quick note to say thank so much to Big Wasa - this work has been completely invaluable when wiring up the ST engine in my Westie - I simply could not have done it without the info you've posted so cheers!

Geoff

Thankyou, turbo Zetec and 3.0 v6 st220 coming soon.

What's your plan for the v6... more head scratching to run it on the bench???

I've always wanted one. There aren't many 2000> domestic U.K. Petrol Engines bigger than the st220 3.0 v6.

It was local and at a pocket money price but I must finish the Zt first....

Right ive done the above pinout on my ecu and it won't start. Ive got the pats led flashing all the time and just turns over so i have code read it today and got the following

1.) p1000 not all obd11 complete
2.) p0230 fuel pump circuit malfunction
3.) p1633 keep alive power too low
4.) b1600 passive anti theft system key transponder signal not receved

Any help would be a life saver

Thanks.. Nick

Right ive done the above pinout on my ecu and it won't start. Ive got the pats led flashing all the time and just turns over so i have code read it today and got the following

1.) p1000 not all obd11 complete
2.) p0230 fuel pump circuit malfunction
3.) p1633 keep alive power too low
4.) b1600 passive anti theft system key transponder signal not receved

Any help would be a life saver

Thanks.. Nick

So the Laan is from a 2.0 Blacktop Mondeo or Cougar.

Is this a manual or auto car ? I am guessing manual ? It needs to be a manual.

To start with your not turning the Immobilizer of. If you have triggered it you may need to disconnect the battery to reset the ecu before trying again.

Did you get the key WITH the ecu ? Answer needs to be yes.

Did the wiring loom come from the same car ? Not essential but it cuts out the guess work if you havnt done one before.

Where did the pats tranciever come from ? Silvertop and Blacktop are differant.

To check the pats you only need a few wires.

Two switched live 12v. One permanent live 12v and four earths. The aerial needs a switched live 12v and the Pats led needs a permanent 12v live.


PIN numbers are for a fiesta but the pictures may help.





[Edited on 12/10/16 by big_wasa]

[Edited on 12/10/16 by big_wasa]

And this vid may help see what it should do.

Yes all the components are from the same car. This maye seam a daft question and i feel daft asking but what is the difference between a switched 12v and normal 12v also what the difference between earth and switched earth
Thanks for helping me

Permant live.

This is to power anything needing power when the ignition switch is of. I.e. Clock and ecu memory.

Switched live.

This is anything powered up by turning the ignition switch to run.



Again if the ecu is switching a circuit on or of it is nearly always done by switching the earh side and not the live.

I.e. The pats led has a 12v to one leg and the ecu controls it by switching the earh.


Talking of Led, what are you using for the led ? Not a flashing led is it ?

[Edited on 12/10/16 by big_wasa]

[Edited on 12/10/16 by big_wasa]

Right i get that now thats what i thought but thought id double check..
Just dug the recept out and it says. Flashing alarm LED.. Is this my problem? it was from maplin and was the only led they sold with a resistor in it and i seen alarm and thought it must be right

To check just put it on a battery. If it flashes it's not the right one.

Right ive been out and disconnected the LED from the loom and put it on a battery ive got in the house and it just flashes so this must be the problem. Is it only sending a signal to the ecu when the bulb is eliminated?

Positive to one side of the led and the other to the ecu which acts as the earth to turn it on and off when it wants.

A flashing led will disrupt the earth path and confuse the ecu into thinking theres a power interruption.

Steve

[Edited on 12/10/16 by coozer]

What resistor needs to be in the bulb and on the positave or negative

An average RED led running at around 20mA and a supply voltage of 13v will need a 1/4w resistor of around 680 ohm and put in the positive side.

[Edited on 13/10/16 by big_wasa]

Well big wasa. You absolute legend ive put the new led in today and boom it fired up lovely. I couldnt have done this without you so thank you so much for all the help and advice all i have to do now is wire the fuel pump and starter relays properly as i do t understand from the diagrams witch wire goes on which pin on the relays

You don't really need the starter relay.



The fuel pump relay is easy. Ignor the PIN numbers.

So the ecu switches the earth side of the relay.



[Edited on 13/10/16 by big_wasa]

So 99% of my ecu is the same as Warrens description but on mine pin 80 has a white wire coming from it????

Also my RDB /Datalink connector is very different and Im a bit lost here....



Im at the part of my project now where its all about this wiring so I'll probably be posting a few more questions in this thread. Thankful for the experiences and expertise guys....








[Edited on 14/10/16 by Hammy360]

I can't see all the pin colours and positions but it looks ok to me ?

This is the fiesta one I did..

Thanks mate, I'll check against that

Got it now I think mate, cheers!

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
I can't see all the pin colours and positions but it looks ok to me ?

This is the fiesta one I did..

---

Is this a standard circuit image for a relay? (sorry no sparky me!) Im not sure how it relates to a relays pins as Im looking at them, can anyone help please?
Cheers

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
You don't really need the starter relay.



The fuel pump relay is easy. Ignor the PIN numbers.

So the ecu switches the earth side of the relay.



[Edited on 13/10/16 by big_wasa]

---

Connect ECU pin 54 to relay pin 86

Connect a short wire to relay pin 85. Twist the bare end of that wire, together with the bare end of a wire coming from a +12v switched feed. Put a connector on the twisted pair and plonk on relay pin 30

Twist the bare end of the wire from ECU pin 54 with the bare end of the wire feeding power to the fuel pump(s). Again put a connector on the twisted pair and plonk on relay pin 87

quote:

---

Originally posted by turnipfarmer
Connect ECU pin 54 to relay pin 86

Connect a short wire to relay pin 85. Twist the bare end of that wire, together with the bare end of a wire coming from a +12v switched feed. Put a connector on the twisted pair and plonk on relay pin 30

Twist the bare end of the wire from ECU pin 54 with the bare end of the wire feeding power to the fuel pump(s). Again put a connector on the twisted pair and plonk on relay pin 87

---

First off; a very special thanks to Big Wasa for this incredible post and Turnip Farmer for his “Laymens” diagram and countless hours on the phone helping me out… And of course, this site.

For those of you in North America (I’m in Canada) attached are the Pinouts for the (USA/Canadian) Focus Zetec using ECU: LFQ1. As noted previously; they are all quite similar, but I thought I would include it for anyone on this side of the pond.
One critical thing to note is that the US and Canadian Ford Focus uses a returnless style fuel injection system. This means that a fuel pump control module controls the voltage to the fuel pump to regulate and maintain the correct rail pressure ~40psi and there is no fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail… Effectively, Pin 54 on the ECU (Black & White) is not a switched earth, but a fuel pump output voltage from the fuel pump monitor to measure to the duty cycle!!! No need to be confused, but in a nutshell this means that Pin 54 on the USA/Can ECU’s is not a switched earth and it will not get your fuel pump relay to work. You need to use a different switched earth or ground the fuel pump relay (Fuel Pump Relay Pin 86) directly to the car as I did and install a fuel pressure regulator (I used one from a 1997-2000 Ford Contour or Mercury Mystique) to the end of the fuel rail with the output line going back to the swirl pot.

This means that once you turn on your ignition switch the high and low pressure fuel pump will run until you shut your car off. Not an issue, unless you get into an accident and there is fuel spraying out at 40psi! Talking to some others, it sounds like their fuel pump runs all the time anyway. I would have thought that the switched earth on the European models would have switched the earth off once spark was no longer present, or something like that. It sounds like Pin 54 on the European Zetec is nothing more than just a switched earth that grounds out once the ignition is turned on anyway. I suppose Ford has an inertia fuel cut-off switch for this reason… If you are concerned about this, you can always wire in an inertia fuel cut-off switch I suppose. I am not worried about it as I may just install a fuel cut-off switch on the dashboard.

As this is a locost site, I thought some of you may be interested in my manifold solution. I ended up using a Focus ST170 lower intake manifold and then I made a plenum out of 3” PVC high efficiency furnace pipe Tees (3” x 3” x 1.5”) with the 3.5” sections cut back so that the 1.5” ports lined up with ST170 manifold ports. 2.25”- 2” silicon couplers were then clamped to connect the plenum and ST170 intake. This pipe is rated for continual furnace exhaust temperatures of 65C and 300psi, so I thought I would try it. There are more options with ABS sewer pipe, so next time I would likely use that as my turbo engine will not be pushing anything greater than 12psi anyway and half of the parts on the engine are modified ABS plastic anyway (Valve cover, thermostat housing, intake manifold, etc). I ported the ID’s of the 1.5” PVC Tees to match the ST170 ports (They are actually slightly oval) and I also radiused the ID’s to hopefully improve flow. You then can use a 3” x 2” ABS or PVC adapters for the ends of the plenum while gluing on 4mm or thicker aluminum plate (The thicker the better), with construction adhesive (Let it dry for 24hrs). First drilling out the MAF mounting holes, taping any vacuum bungs, and boring out the MAF port with a hole saw. PL Quick set is terrific (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem_adv/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-FAST-GRAB-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm). It all sounds complicated, but you can see it all better in the pictures.

As noted by others, the ST170 lower intake manifold actually bolts right up the Zetec-R 2.0L engine, but the intake throats are smaller. To fix this, just push out the steel sleeves for each bolt/stud cut-out from the ST170 manifold and cut the top part of the steel sleeve out making enough gap so that the stud/bolt clears your new cut-out. Now push your new cut-out steel sleeves back into the manifold with the spacer void that you cut out facing the 12-O’clock position. This will drop the manifold the ~2mm you need without drilling out the plastic manifold… Placing the modified steel sleeves back in the manifold will ensure you don’t over torque or crack the manifold once you torque all the intake bolts and nuts back to spec. You will now notice that the bottom of the intake runners line up perfectly, but the top do not… You will have you carefully use a dremmel or die grinder with a small cylindrical sanding attachment to modify the cylinder head intake size to eliminate the final restriction on the top part of the intake. You will also need to increase the injection portion of the intake port to account for the size difference. So you don’t remove too much material, you will need to sand and then lightly bolt up the ST170 intake and note areas that need further material removal. It takes a little while, but if you take your time it will all work out great.

Don’t feel bad about doing this head modification, as the ST170 intake ports are larger than the Zetec-R’s, so this modification may net you a couple HP’s and is required to properly align the ports on the manifold. Make sure you plug up the holes of the intake carefully with rags before you start so that the aluminum dust doesn’t go into your engine and valves! Also make sure you use the ST170 intake gaskets too when you button everything back up.

The car starts and idles nicely given the fact that I have 40lb injectors installed for my turbo setup. And the plenum only cost me about $100 CAD (50 quid) plus the cost of the ST170 lower manifold. I have not completed everything as I have to finish installing the turbo.

Pictures to follow once I figure out how to do that.

Hi all,

Sorry first post mary and all that jazz. I am currently in the process of installing a 2.0 blacktop into a MK4 Escort.

Just wanted to say thank you to you all for the diagrams and installation notes. As my car is a MFI not EFI i have a little more work involved but the principles that i have gathered from here are brilliant.

Thanks
Andy

Always good to hear and thanks for the recognition.

[Edited on 18/12/16 by big_wasa]

I know this isnt the for sale section but I have a Zetec ECU with loom, two keys and immobiliser from a 2000 2.0 litre Mondeo blacktop. £75

The car was mine and a runner so its all good!

Hi all,

I'm sure I'm maybe being blind, but I can see what wires I need from the ECU for the lambda sensor.
It's a 2000 blacktop.

Thanks in advance

It has four wires and three come from the ecu. The fourth being a switched 12v for the sensor heater.

The heater is controlled by a switched earth on pin 93 black with yellow trace.

The sense wire is a White wire from pin 60 and to complete the circuit you tap in to pin 91 this is Brown and is a common to lots of sensors.

[Edited on 20/6/17 by big_wasa]

Perfect, thanks wasa!

No problem, that's mondeo not focus pin numbers.

Good stuff, as it's a mondeo engine I've got!

One of my setups is going a bit 3 cylindery and I suspect the same problem I had before with one of the pins to the ECU getting tired. So I was looking out for a replacement
I've noticed plenty of zetec ECUs on Ebay but loads of them are without keys - which I would have thought would make them useless?
Does anyone have a cheap and cheerful method of recoding?

Here's one

ENGINE ECU KEY TRANSPONDER SET 98-01 Ford Cougar 2.0 Petrol & WARRANTY - 1190575

quote:

---

Originally posted by spegru
One of my setups is going a bit 3 cylindery and I suspect the same problem I had before with one of the pins to the ECU getting tired. So I was looking out for a replacement
I've noticed plenty of zetec ECUs on Ebay but loads of them are without keys - which I would have thought would make them useless?
Does anyone have a cheap and cheerful method of recoding?

---

Thanks. My problem is with a 60 pin eec v so owl5 is no use.
On the elm gadget & software I've seen references to enabling disabling features but not coding keys. Do you have info that they do that too?

Yes mate but this isn't a standard elm or any generic software. You need that specific dongle and software and you need to apply for a short term licence and show you have a genuine need.

I've hooked mine up to my st220 and it reads all the moduals on the car and goes far deeper than say an elm dongle with torque. I can't test the functions needing the licence as I havnt got it.

Functions, it's not as function rich as you may think. You don't seem to be able to disable seat belt functions for a track day car ect.

http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=839

Wow that looks pretty comprehensive. I shall have to try it

A bit of an update on my speedo problems from over a year ago.
I have been driving the car (EagleRV with Blacktop Focus Zetec 60pin EEC-V and Type 9 box - using an original Focus Dash pod) all this time without speedo because it massively under-reads by about 70%.
It was established that the Mk1 Focus Dash pod takes all its data via OBD and that there is no separate VSS or tacho available to feed to it
The need for a speedo healer was diagnosed but I railed at the cost of one that looked likely to increase the reading by more than 100% (lots of poor descriptions for the bike ones on ebay)

Anyway a massive step forward was made last night using
a) A Rev counter circuit attached to the Speedo sensor/VSS - giving a voltage output related to speed
b) An Arduino (cheapo microcontroller from ebay) set up to be a Voltage Controlled Osclillator (VCO) providing pulses related to voltage and connected to the speedo sensor input to the ECU

Connect one to the other and hey presto a variable pulse rate related to road speed - sending to the ECU and hence the Focus Speedo

All a bit rough and ready but it basically works. I shall now have to productionise it and calibrate it properly

[Edited on 31/7/17 by spegru]

Now wired up properly, boxed and calibrated.
A bit odd when first started up and at very low speeds, but after that it's fine.
It will DO!

Bit odd at low speeds in what way ?

Can be a large overread and even read 20 when stationary. Seems to be on first startup though as it seems pretty good after that. Probably too sensitive to low voltages. I might have a go at fixing it but it will certainly do for now

[Edited on 21/8/17 by spegru]

[Edited on 21/8/17 by spegru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
Thankyou, turbo Zetec and 3.0 v6 st220 coming soon.

---

Nah not yet. Will be after the clocks change now.

I've had a quid look to make sure it can be done, no problem there. I've bought a really nice ttv billet flywheel and helix clutch for it.

I've been cleaning out the garage all week and making space for something new.

I am well out of space so one of the zetec turbo's has to go. So will offer that on passion ford tonight if I get time.

umm the clock have already changed!

I mean the nights pulling out. There isn't enough day light hours in the day as I am working all of them and some either side.

Having had success with two OEM EFI Zetec installs, I'm getting reasonably confident with this stuff. My later one used the entire engine wiring harness/loom (extended in places to suit the RWD layout) rather than hacking it all about into a new one as I did the first time

What I'm hoping is that an Duratec V6 of the same era will be similar to the Zetec - keep the key and detector ring etc as well as the harness and ECU

What's the new project? Well I've just bought a '79 vintage Reliant Scimitar, complete with the rather vintage Essex V6 and I want to make it into a realistic reliable daily driver like my Eagle RV jeep replica. I shall try it in standard form first of course but after that.....

The recipe is looking like Mondeo v6 (the Ford Engine not the Mazda one) connected to a Jag S type manual gearbox (it's said they mate up ok)

New project is another 7. I just feel I have unfinished business.

Yes the Mondeo v6 will be no problem. I understand that the jag box fits fine but you need the flywheel to go with it and the ratios are poor. I would think they will be fine in a scimitar though.

I can’t make my mind up. Turbo Zetec, 3.0 Duratec or somthing new ?

If I could get one of the rx8 adapter guys to do a plate that would swing it for me.

Edit...

Some reading shows that Morgan use the jag box in a mk1 Roadster but moved to the MT82 for the mk2 & 3.
This can be found in the transit with a 2.4 diesel.

I just need to find out what flywheel is used.

[Edited on 22/11/17 by big_wasa]

It's very tempting to go duratec v6 as the parts seem pretty cheap on ebay. Im also wondering how much an Essex with 4sp+overdrive would be worth to sell on to the capri guys or whatever
However the car doesn't even come till Monday so I'm a bit ahead of myself!

Yeah I know that feeling. I only got mine a week ago but the ideas are flooding in.

Hi. Is there any one thing that would cause an st170 engine to run at about 6000rpm instead of idle?

Sorry, I should add that the throttle flap is closed and idle runner control is closed. I have checked for obvious air leaks.An air leak would have to be huge for the rpm?

It's got to be air as you say it needs plenty to be doing 6000rpm.

Brake servo port is the one most people miss. What about the pcv valve in the crank vent system. Canister purge port.

Idle control valves also seize and some times cleaning just isn't enough to get them going again.

The photo set up isn't working on here but if you want to send me some i will have a look over them.

Cheers

I have blocked the 3 pipes circled below and my idle seems ok in the brief time I have ran my engine.

Whether or not these are the correct pipes to blank off I will leave for big Wasa to confirm.

Hi. Thanks. I have done just as family guy has on the image above.

Has anyone used the dreamscience stratagem?

Does that mean you now have it running properly ?

My opinion is its a waste of time and money on a naturally aspirated car.
The bluefin will get you 3~4 bhp.
For twice the cost you could be going stand alone managment with much more potential.

Forced induction is different. The same outlay will get much better returns for the cash. The same unit I my Rs ecu will get me around 30 hp. For stage 1

Im glad I asked.. Thanks.

I have discovered where the leak is. I will know Thursday when I can work on it.

Hi all,

I’ve got a 2.0 blacktop installed running on stock BASH ECU.
I’m considering replacing it for an st170, would the blacktop loom be the same so I can just swap the engine and ECU?

Thanks
Andy

No,

There are lots more sensors needed as well as the inlet manifold. If you where starting from scratch it’s not a bad start like you have done but it’s not the upgrade your looking for.

Stand alone and Itb’s will give you 25bhp or more head work and cams another 25 ish. The st engine will get most of that with out the cams and head work. But you have the hassle of the vvt.

The Focus Rs ecu wouldn’t be to much more work but it’s rare and bits add up. But it will give you more than you will ever need.

Mine should done by Easter

anyone using stock ECU etc managed to use a different alternator ?

Yep I’ve fitted all sorts.

Current one is from a motorbike

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
Yep I’ve fitted all sorts.

Current one is from a motorbike

---

What wiring ?

You just wire up your new alternator as it’s intended, it doesn’t connect to the ecu.

i thought the stock one did ?

It does

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
It does

---

It will be fine.

Well having needed my own guide for my last Blacktop loom I can see my notes are a little lacking
Thinking back, I did them for a mate who planed on just using the 42 pin plug in a mid engine car and that info just confuses things.

Sorry

But there is still enough info to get the job done



[Edited on 28/4/19 by big_wasa]

Hi, Could anyone recomed what year focus would be the easiest to use the loom and ecu from. Looking to put a 2l zetdc blacktop in a zero.

Any mk1 Focus 2.0. They have the 60 pin ecu, the info is in this thread.
A mk2 Mondeo 2.0 Blacktop is more or less the same and has the 104 pin ecu, again the info is in this thread and you can be doubly sure if you find an ecu with the codes that are tried and tested.

The st170 is a little more complicated but the bits are cheap and readily available, again all the info is in another thread on here. Only pain in the arse is if the st170 inlet manifold will fit or not.

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
Any mk1 Focus 2.0. They have the 60 pin ecu, the info is in this thread.
A mk2 Mondeo 2.0 Blacktop is more or less the same and has the 104 pin ecu, again the info is in this thread and you can be doubly sure if you find an ecu with the codes that are tried and tested.

The st170 is a little more complicated but the bits are cheap and readily available, again all the info is in another thread on here. Only pain in the arse is if the st170 inlet manifold will fit or not.

---

I'm having some trouble with my Zetec blacktop conversion:

Donor car is 1999 Mondeo 2.0 manual. I should have all the essentials wired to the C2513 connector, but car won't start. When I turn the igniton key to RUN position, PATS led stops flashing. So far so good? However fuel pump relay switched earth never gives the proper earth to fuel pump relay. That wire has about 3V positive when ignition is off, and about 9V positive when ignition is on. So of course relay will not function with this kind of voltage.

I tried bypassing the relay and running the pump continuously, but engine wouldn't start with this method either.

I have not yet checked do I have spark or no. Also OBD connector and instrument cluster wires are not yet connected, as I would like to get the engine running first. Are these necessary in order to get the engine running?

PATS receiver and donor car key are kind of laying together, as I would like to use original keys for the car.

I have not used ECU starter or fan relays, I just wired them as they were on the original loom. Engine is going in mk3 Ford fiesta that had carburator engine before. Fuel tank is replaced from EFI version, and I added two relays (ECU & FUEL) and some fuses for the conversion.

I found one hit on google that someone had this exact problem, but there was no answer what could cause it. Could the ECU be bad somehow? Donor car was running and driving normally before disassembly. At first I suspected grounding issue but nothing changed when I double checked my earthing points and added an additional ground for ECU.

Any ideas / suggestions?

Thanks!

The cars have an active anti theft system as well as the passive anti theft system.

Its Very unlikely you have a bad ecu. They are very hardy in the mondeo. I've seen them connected reverse polarity and popped various diodes but it still started the engine.

I can't comment on how the ecu is talking to your bcm but for testing purposes I would wire it as a stand alone unit.

And then go about wiring it into your car when your confident the ecu and wiring is fine.

[Edited on 16/7/19 by big_wasa]

Thanks to the information on here i just got my zetec running on a mk1 focus ecu. I have the ecu controlling the the fuel pump relay and hp fuel pump but don't t know how to wire the lp fuel pump? Would it be ok to run both pumps from the same relay?

Yes I’ve done them that way before.

Thanks

quote:

---

Originally posted by snowy2


My working diagrams for the Focus 60 pin ECU......I used the pin out list earlier in this post.

---

Looks like some nice engineering there

As long as the maf sees all the air entering the engine including the idle valve it should run fine.
A guy called Will ran a similar set up and it was dyno’d at around 150 on the standard map.

Relays. I have just finished up a fresh install this week on my latest project.
Mine differ slightly to above.

For the engine....

Starter inhibitor relay. Cuts the the starter motor as part of the Immobilizer.
Fuel pump, this is the important one.
Fan relay.

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
Looks like some nice engineering there

As long as the maf sees all the air entering the engine including the idle valve it should run fine.
A guy called Will ran a similar set up and it was dyno’d at around 150 on the standard map.

Relays. I have just finished up a fresh install this week on my latest project.
Mine differ slightly to above.

For the engine....

Starter inhibitor relay. Cuts the the starter motor as part of the Immobilizer.
Fuel pump, this is the important one.
Fan relay.

---

There is a couple of firms that can map the ecu in the uk. But it is popular in America inc diy options if you are very technically minded.

I am just slapping a turbo on instead.

Turbo will be something for my son.
I am happy if we get it on the road, this would be a challenge.

Just curious, you put a turbo on a 2,0L Zetec without any change to the engine? (pistons, rods, compression etc)

There will be some problems with space for a turbo in our LHD car, we got there the the steering shaft.
I use the Ford Focus Steering column and want to use all the switches to.

I get mad with the wiring, my living room is full with wiring.

Regarding the relays, you say that have changes to the "Snowy2" drawing, is that because something was wrong or just because you needed or wanted to do in a different way?

Regards,
Carlos

I am not saying Snowey is wrong I’ve just done mine a little different. Instead of a relay to carry the current of the engine. I have a 70a relay that carries the load for the entire car instead of my 30 year old Sierra ignition switch.

Engines, I have a few

The one in it is know as a hybrid.

St170 bottom end with 9mm Arp’s
2.0 Blacktop top end with the st170 valve springs.
1.8mm FRs Hg

This gives you a Cr of 9:1 and is reportedly good for over 300bhp

I’ve got a tiny Td04L turbo for quick spool and low boost and an expected output of 220~270 bhp

Second engine is just parts but is basically a FRs engine with forged rods and as many Arp’s I can through at it.

There is plenty of room for a turbo if you top mount it. It’s the cooling that takes up the space.

quote:

---

Originally posted by big_wasa
I am not saying Snowey is wrong I’ve just done mine a little different. Instead of a relay to carry the current of the engine. I have a 70a relay that carries the load for the entire car instead of my 30 year old Sierra ignition switch.

Engines, I have a few

The one in it is know as a hybrid.

St170 bottom end with 9mm Arp’s
2.0 Blacktop top end with the st170 valve springs.
1.8mm FRs Hg

This gives you a Cr of 9:1 and is reportedly good for over 300bhp

I’ve got a tiny Td04L turbo for quick spool and low boost and an expected output of 220~270 bhp

Second engine is just parts but is basically a FRs engine with forged rods and as many Arp’s I can through at it.

There is plenty of room for a turbo if you top mount it. It’s the cooling that takes up the space.

---

I got a brand new Zetec blacktop from 2004.
Looks nice your car.
The catalysator need some protection!!!!!

With the cat, time will tell.

Hello,

I have found some information that can be interesting.
Regarding the use of PIN 2 and PIN 23 in a 60 PIN's ECU

Both are dedicated for a KNOCK sensor.
I found dat at the wiring diagram of a 2002 Ford Focus.

Perhaps you can update the PIN list op page 4 of this thread.

In a 104 pin ECU would be PIN 57 and PIN 87

Probably we can use the KNOCK sensor on those pins.
I wonder if Ford has integrated in the code the Knock sensor input and what is the timing change (how they retard, how much and for how long) when de knock is detected.????




[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]

Only the st has the knock sensor. It shows the Rs has one but it doesn’t.

What I see in this document Focus 2002 is the next:

Zetec-SE has Knock Sensor
Zetec-E has Knock Sensor
Duratec- ST has knock sensor Pint 57 and 32
Duratec-RS Don't have knock sensor

Regards,
Cobra289

[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]

[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]

[Edited on 9/5/20 by Cobra289]

Yep, I know them documents show one but having pulled dozens of looms to bits some whilst on the car I can tell you them documents and stuff like auto data are not always correct.

Hi, I'm trying to a put a 60pin focus ecu (feel) into a mk3 fiesta.

Has anybody done a pinout for the 16 pin plug that goes from the engine loom to the car loom?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
UPDATE
Sorted now. But would like to thank the contributors of all the info on this thread

[Edited on 27/5/20 by 13nick85]

I was going to say it should be pretty easy to work out with a multi meter.

They're are also posts from turnip farmer and Martin with more info.

This topic has been resting awhile!

I have a problem with my previously fine Black Top setup.
Wont start - except that it sometimes seems to fire just as you let go of the key - and *eventually* it's possible to get it going.
I don't think its the ignition switch, as I have a parallel start button and that does the same thing.

Any ideas?

Have you got the pats led and obd2 plumbed in ?

But it sounds like a voltage drop to me. Its a usual case of checking the lives and earths ect and a sierra ignition switch could be between 30 and 40 years old so I wouldn't rule it out.

Hi Big Wasa I hoped youd pop up!

OBD reports low KAM voltage and PATS light does weird stuff. Going out and then flickering
Yes I've wondered about batt voltage stuff but it's fully charged and not sure what the figure at the ECU should be while cranking anyway?

Not a Sierra column and actually I have a parallel starter button with both going to a relay.....but now you are making me think about that relay........

back soonish..

Merry Christmas

spegru

Hi there, a bit of slow progress due to Christmas events but just tried with 2 separate batteries - one for the car electricals and one specifically for the starter.
Instant start - three times!

Now why cannot I seem to combine the two systems I wonder......

I'm still struggling to get the car to start on a normal single battery. Cranking voltage seems to be about 9 volts. Not starting like that though. What should cranking voltage be?

Sorry I don’t come on here as often as I used to.
I think you have answered your own question. It’s not an ecu problem. You are getting a voltage drop.

Bad cell in the battery.
Damaged, loose, corroded earth / supply or cable.
Starter.

Start with the easy bits.

Thanks BW.

This problem has been annoying me for months. Ive checked probably dozens of connections with no result
Even a new battery didnt make any difference.

That last voltage-while-cranking I saw at the main fused input was 10.3v - although of course that still leaves the earth side......

What voltage would you say is the minimum for this to work?

I did an experiment with a variable external power supply plugged into the fuse for the ECU so that the ECU 'sees' only the PSU voltage
Worked fine down to 8.5v
Went a bit dodgy at 8v though

My battery is putting out 10.5v while cranking and the KAM voltage error I was seeing was actually a wiring fault, now fixed

Still doing the same thing - fires just as cranking stops. Weird

If it was working fine and now isn’t I would still go through all the earths, add a few and then try a different starter.

Fixed it - gah what a stupid fault!

Coil plug connector was a loose fit electrically.
Why? because of the times I had forced a meter probe into it, forcing apart the little electrical grippy things inside the plug terminals

Seems the only-start-on-external battery thing was simply because: lower voltage when cranking = (even) weaker spark

And of course when you check the connections with a meter, all is fine - it's when you connect things together that the fault happens.
Eventually I found the problem when testing at the ECU plug: expecting to see 12v at pins 26 and 52 (with the ECU itself removed). Should have been 12v feed via coil but there wasn't

A bit of contact bending with a tiny screwdriver did the trick but probably a new plug would be a good idea.

Note to anyone interested in this - do not force meter probes into that plug - it can be done but it buggers the plug

I twist a short length of 1.0mm2 wire and poke that in the pins.

Buggering about with old cars seems to be dying out fast as a hobby.

Well I don't know about that. There are 65million+ in the UK and if only 0.1% are interested that's still several thousand

Anyway while we are here I will just mention that although Big Wasa did his r&d this with the OWL5 coded EEC-V ECU I can confirm that also we have had
DESK
NECK
and now JIG3 on operation for 2.0Litre manual Zetec Black top engines
All you need is a matching key


Hi BW thanks for your work and your support

I wonder if someone readig this topic, could send me on PM u2u diagrams from turnipfarmer post, this one :

https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=183643&page=0&contribmessage=none


Maybe will try to go this route , reading this full of experience, knowledge and info topic (thank You Big_wasa and others!) . Lot of things to learn, new to me.

Did this get answered? TBH I found it a bit confusing since you liked to a page where the diagrams were already shown?

quote:

---

Originally posted by spegru
Did this get answered? TBH I found it a bit confusing since you liked to a page where the diagrams were already shown?

---

It has been a while, but eventually I have wired up (many Thanks !!! to contributors in this topic, @big_wasa , @Turnipfarmer - especialy!, @Shorty and others) the 60 pin ECU to blacktop Zetec 2.0
Bought a while ago ecu with key and PATS antenna, did not checked before. Now the problem (of course must be ... :-/ ) :

- The ecu-compatiobile (should be) key laying in the antenna.

- Switching the power on (battery isolator) : PATS LED is slowly blinking (that is ok as I have read there)

- turnig the ignition key on : a fuel pump real switching the fuel pump on, it is working for short time, then stops , and PATS LED starts to blink more frequent

Waiting approx half / minute - this LED starts to show error code 12 (on bling, two blinks, pause, one blink, tow blinks pause etc)

Of course engine does not start.

Did the test and the same procedure but_without_ the ecu-compatibilie key outside the PATS antenna - all the same, but in the end there is other error code : 11 (one blink, one blink, pause, one blink, one blink, pause).

So I assume the antenna sees that there is a key inside (when it is) , but does not recognize this key (?). Key is bend, bought used with ecu and antenna together , was suppoused to be all from one car. Could be not working / destroyed chip in the key, or was it not from one car, someone mixed up those ...

Or could it be other cause of this error 12 and not starting.

Maybe some of You have any ideas is there something I could check before hunting (started to look for already) and ordering another set ECU-key ?

Most important wires checked - positive, negative not mixed, proper wires from antenna connected to appriopriate to the ECU..
Battery should be ok ( new one 18Ah , connected universal OBD bluetooth reader to OBD , used "Piston" applicatioon for android , it showed 12,7 V , starter turns lively, but just in case connected battery to charger).
As for the OBD - my bluetooth reader and applications shows battery voltage, intake air temperature, coolant temperature (seems ok - garage temperatures as engine is not working) , some values for lambda (dont know much about that) . so I assume OBD connected ok. But no error codes. Might it be due to not exaxctly compatibile OBD reader plug / application ?

Any help appreciated ! Thank You in advance!

[Edited on 1/7/22 by Andrzejsr]

[Edited on 1/7/22 by Andrzejsr]

Solved ! (Hope so)

Trying with different key positions with immo antena and eventually got proper LED status with key laying ON the circle of the coil rather than inside the coil.


EDIT

It WORKS !!!! cant say how nice feeling and relief

Now a lot of other jobs with the car , but knowing engine works its different.

Many , many thanks to All of You who spent their time and effort to share their knowledge and experience explaining, drawing diagrams etc, really appreciate that!



[Edited on 2/7/22 by Andrzejsr]

Hi all,

I'm currently knee deep in wiring and loving it, but...
Have done some searching & can't seem to find an answer...do the live feeds into ECU (perm +12v, pin 55) and (switched +12v pins 71/97) need to be fused? And/or switched live come from a relay?

The job of the fuse is to protect the wiring. Ford will have calculated the loads and best circuit's to combine but as the wiring is 20years old now and this is diy. I tend to over fuse my rigs as it also makes trouble shooting so much easier.

1) 1a perm live for ecu memory and pats led

Switched.

2) 7.5a ecu, pats, obd2 port
3) 15a coil
4) 15a injectors, o2 sensor
5) 20a fuel pump
6) 30a Fan

Or something along them lines.

Perfect thanks...I'm half way there already then; fuel pump (and swirl pot pump), fan and O2 sensor done. I'll wire up remaining fuses and get those circuits completed

Thanks as always for your help!

I have grab information from this forum to find out the wiring of our project LCCT of my son and me.
Therefore my thanks to all the contributors.

We use the original PCM from the Ford Focus (Code TEEM) with 60 pin connector.
Our wiring harness has also a 60 pin connector.

I have made a drawing of the wire harness that I want to share.
This drawing has been based in out build and our needs.
But please remember I am not responsible of what you do with this information.

The wiring is only for the engine management system and includes information of the PCM, sensors, relays, fuses etc.
I use a self build MTA fuse and relay box.




I hope that this help someone with his build.

Regards,
Carlos