I am going to fit the mount on my Busa and do Fintray hill climb this weekend. I was also getting corrupt files on that car last weekend at
Forrestburn.
The GPS is a lap timer made by Sumomoto. I take the data and massage it in a spread sheet (open office) to feed RaceRender which is a visualisation
package. The down side is you have to press two buttons at the start line.
The footage of the sprint where its shaking looks more like a flimsy mount causing it to shake rather than vibrate.
The trouble with Gopros is their centre of gravity when using a mount that's not literally directly fixed to the car, any mount that has arms or
framework can start to shake. They're obviously not heavy, but having, camera, battery, recorder and storage in one place is bound to be
effected more than just a bullet camera or similar.
Some of the points you make are of course valid, however I cannot mount a camera directly on the Roll bar it f....s them big time. A bullet camera or
what I have done is the only option. The cost of motor sport this year is more than my bank account can stand so yet another camera is out.
All of the advice here is valid if you don't have a fundamental problem in the first place. If you fit good quality memory cards (where there is
a decent level of gold on the contacts) in a car that has engine mounts then good on you. But if you have an engine hard mounted and particularly one
with vvt technology and a high lift road cam then this is the thread for you.
I would love to fit a wide band gyro stabilised camera platform like the military use but that is not practical for various reasons. This device
shown, which is now proven to a certain degree is a vast improvement on the performance I was getting. At least I can see the videos now. I am not the
only person in this universe with corrupted MP4 files taken as memories of their favourite run. This is one of the most popular postings on the GoPro
forum.
I am, as usual, a statistical outlier in terms of video usage my practical solution is not perfect as many have commented on this thread but it is
1000% better than anything else I have tried so far and I have tried all the solutions proposed by this and other forums.
I am not upset by your comments in fact I am encouraged.
P.S. The original mount is the one recommended by GoPro for roll bars and the like.
Hi, I have not tried mine on the car yet as its not finished but I was having the very same stability issues mounting it on the bike.
Looking at you blog pictures you are going in the direction I went with no success, the distance from the mounting location (roll bar) to the base of
the plastic housing is just too long.
The best results I had with the bike was buying one of these alloy mounts of ebay - eBay Item
I fixed that to a block of alloy and u-bolted it to the engine bars.
Touch wood but to date I have had no corrupt files or issues with engine vibration damaging the camera.
Here was a test on a run heading to Holland
Fleet
SKC Raptor R - Hayabusa
Toyota C-HR Hybrid Limited Edition
Honda VFR1200 CrossTourer
DCT
Marlin Roadster 1800
Mercedes Vito 116 Sport
at least i'm not the only one struggling with mounting a gopro and getting shakey vids.
the more solidly i mounted it the worse it got. it even shakes a little when the car is idling stationary so must be vibrations from the R1 motor.
i've another idea to try when i have time so i'll post up here if it works.
just seen that ebay link above, just the thing i need for the idea i've got.
GoPros are roller shutter devices so suffer from vibration effects in the pictures. Seems to be worse with the higher frequency of the BEC (check out
the various RGB videos to see what I mean).
So to combat this you need to minimise the length of the mount, isolate the mount somehow and/or use a full shutter camera.
